Finally! 195s

That's pretty tight! Nice job.

Mike Cardillo said:

That's pretty tight! Nice job.

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The look on the wifes face the first few times backing in was priceless and very nerve racking for me. It's about as tight front to back as well. Just inches.

Ok...busy day yesterday. Here are all the mods that I did:

1. Trailer guides. Fulton 50". Decided on some plain black pads - going with that blacked out look.

2. Removed my warning stickers. I think I can remember not to put any body orifices on the jet.

3. Installed a new amp. Also shown here is a ribbon cable that I used for LEDs.

I ordered a new harness for the Fusion (since everyone said the extra RCA's were cut off. Turns out that mine were not cut so maybe Yamaha stopped doing that? Anyway....I now have an extra harness if anyone wants one.

I ran two shielded RCA cables from Zone 1 and Zone 2 on the back of the fusion up to the battery compartment on the boat.

Installed amp in front of compartment. I was going to caulk/glue the mount board to the forward wall in the compartment but piece of wood just happened to wedge in there really tight. There is a lip in the floor there and it just happened to fit perfectly. So no mounting required. I need to clean up the wires a bit and yes, the amp is upside down . Let's pretend that I intended to set it up that way.

4. Wetsounds tower speakers in kicker enclosures. I also re-wired the existing 4 wetsounds speakers back to the battery compartment.

After experimenting with the wiring I decided to wire the existing speakers as "Front" and the two tower speakers as "Rear". This allows me to quickly and easily adjust with the Fader. That way I can quickly crank the tower speakers when doing water sports. It sounds awesome!

5. Replaced courtesy lights with LED light strips. I also used that same light strip controller to control the tower speaker LEDs. That was a bit of a trick getting the wiring right so the colors are the same on both the light strips and the speakers.

I cut off one of the four LED strips since I only needed three. I then mounted one in each of the three black inserts in the side wall of the boat. Two of those had a courtesy light - the one by the driver does not. Now all three have an LED light switch. I cut the wires from the old courtesy lights so they stay off. The new LEDs are wired into the courtesy light switch on the dash. I also mounted the small controller (black oval thing above) in the cup holder insert by the driver. I can use it to change colors on the LEDs if I want.

Note: pic below is taking from below so you can see the light strip. I'll try to get a night picture sometime so you guys can see the effect. It was still light out when I took these.

Tough to see in daylight but here is the speaker LED...


Long day. I'm tired. Haven't even been out on the water yet due to sh*&^y weather but plan to get out on Friday. It's a little nerve racking hacking away at wiring in your brand new boat when you haven't even been out in it!

Mike Cardillo said:

5. Replaced courtesy lights with LED light strips. I also used that same light strip controller to control the tower speaker LEDs. That was a bit of a trick getting the wiring right so the colors are the same on both the light strips and the speakers.
View attachment 119280
I cut off one of the four LED strips since I only needed three. I then mounted one in each of the three black inserts in the side wall of the boat. Two of those had a courtesy light - the one by the driver does not. Now all three have an LED light switch. I cut the wires from the old courtesy lights so they stay off. The new LEDs are wired into the courtesy light switch on the dash. I also mounted the small controller (black oval thing above) in the cup holder insert by the driver. I can use it to change colors on the LEDs if I want.

Note: pic below is taking from below so you can see the light strip. I'll try to get a night picture sometime so you guys can see the effect. It was still light out when I took these.
View attachment 119281
Tough to see in daylight but here is the speaker LED...
View attachment 119282

Long day. I'm tired. Haven't even been out on the water yet due to sh*&^y weather but plan to get out on Friday. It's a little nerve racking hacking away at wiring in your brand new boat when you haven't even been out in it!

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I am picking up my new 195S next week, and I am trying to get some stereo equipment ordered now so I will have it and be ready to install it the day I pick up the boat. I am ordering online through a company called Earmark (highly recommended in other threads). The gentleman I am working with (Odin) recommends installing the amps in the storage area directly behind the steering wheel/touchscreen. Does that location makes sense to you? His thought is that they will be mounted near the touchscreen controls, plus it is an area that is a little more out of the way of commotion and water (as opposed to mounting under the rear seat where the battery is located). My concern is that it will be located further from the rear swim-deck head unit. Isn't that rear unit the main control unit of the stereo system and also the unit that the amps will be connected to? My ultimate goal of this tread is to determine the best place to mount 2 amps and then determine what size amp board I need them to make for that space. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

dwillson said:

I am picking up my new 195S next week, and I am trying to get some stereo equipment ordered now so I will have it and be ready to install it the day I pick up the boat. I am ordering online through a company called Earmark (highly recommended in other threads). The gentleman I am working with (Odin) recommends installing the amps in the storage area directly behind the steering wheel/touchscreen. Does that location makes sense to you? His thought is that they will be mounted near the touchscreen controls, plus it is an area that is a little more out of the way of commotion and water (as opposed to mounting under the rear seat where the battery is located). My concern is that it will be located further from the rear swim-deck head unit. Isn't that rear unit the main control unit of the stereo system and also the unit that the amps will be connected to? My ultimate goal of this tread is to determine the best place to mount 2 amps and then determine what size amp board I need them to make for that space. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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He is correct the best place to mount amps will be behind driver helm. It'll be out of the way, and not take up storage space. However, you are also correct in that the rear head unit does control the system not the touchscreen. It's no problem you'll just need to run long lengths of wire. I did my amps under port rear seat where battery is, but I do wish I would have put them up in helm. Same sentence though I like them where they are because under that seat is all my electronics, and easy routing of wires (power, ground, speaker, and tower wiring). Leaving me under helm for easy access storage. It's a catch 22 basically. Figure out what and where you want to store stuff is the best option first. Then decide where to mount things. Here's my pic of amps. Under the rack I built is all my wiring, batteries (3), Noco charger, and switch. The rack hides it all for a super clean look...

Hoyt said:

He is correct the best place to mount amps will be behind driver helm. It'll be out of the way, and not take up storage space. However, you are also correct in that the rear head unit does control the system not the touchscreen. It's no problem you'll just need to run long lengths of wire. I did my amps under port rear seat where battery is, but I do wish I would have put them up in helm. Same sentence though I like them where they are because under that seat is all my electronics, and easy routing of wires (power, ground, speaker, and tower wiring). Leaving me under helm for easy access storage. It's a catch 22 basically. Figure out what and where you want to store stuff is the best option first. Then decide where to mount things.

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Thanks Hoyt! I will probably suck it up and just mount them behind driver helm. Which side of that space would you recommend mounting them, bow or stern side? Would you mind helping me determine what size/shape Amp panel I would need them to make for me? I am trying to order everything before getting the boat so I cannot measure myself until next week.

dwillson said:

Thanks Hoyt! I will probably suck it up and just mount them behind driver helm. Which side of that space would you recommend mounting them, bow or stern side? Would you mind helping me determine what size/shape Amp panel I would need them to make for me? I am trying to order everything before getting the boat so I cannot measure myself until next week.

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You'll probably have to mount them to bow side. Stern side is open to access touchscreen and other dash components. Sure I'll help no problem. Shoot me a pm

As mentioned, rear unit is the control unit. I debated about in the helm compartment but ultimately went for easier wiring plus I didn't want any interference from running longer wiring back to the rear unit. I would recommend shielded cable/wire if you go that longer route.

I should also mention that if you mount it to the back or side of the battery compartment it is pretty well protected. The seat has a nice deep drainage catch so rain or someone sitting wet on the seat will not get water into the compartment. If the seat is wet and then lifted, it can drip into that compartment but not in the back or side. I decided to use that compartment for things like tools, cleaning supplies, extra and essentially unused life jackets, etc. So it is not used for passenger stuff or items that are generally accessed when underway.

Was able to use the boat a lot this weekend. LOVE IT. I did order the Cobra Jet Steering after trying to control the thing at slow speed. I traded a scarab for this boat so I am accustomed to jet boats. I must say the Scarab is infinitely easier to drive at slow speed. The difference is that when in neutral the scarab scoop acts as a thruster - if you turn it directs flow to either side. This allows you great control whenever you shift into neutral. The scarab will actually spin in a circle when in neutral if you turn wheel. As you all know, with the Yamaha there is essentially no steering when in neutral.

Also, a quick note on the wakebooster. My 27 year old daughter was the only one brave enough to surf (COLD WATER). She actually felt that the boat was easier to surf without the booster. We didn't get the time to fine tune things and truly experiment but this was surprising. Once the water is warmer I will do some experimentation and post some videos plus a review. On a positive note, she had no trouble going rope-less on the 195.

How tall is it at its highest point with the tower down?

dshscarab said:

This is an idea for you. I disconnected the tower cables and have mine resting on a spare trailer guide (Plastic PVC) Works great.

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in your second sideview pic of the tower going under your garage, what is the height of your garage? i have a 1 inch cement lip which makes my garage more like 80'-81' MAX. and also, since your tower looks obviously lower than the windshield, how many inches did your boat end up being? i'm trying to decide if it will fit in my garage or i'll have to store it at my parents house which has huge areas for RV's/boats etc.

burgjp said:

in your second sideview pic of the tower going under your garage, what is the height of your garage? i have a 1 inch cement lip which makes my garage more like 80'-81' MAX. and also, since your tower looks obviously lower than the windshield, how many inches did your boat end up being? i'm trying to decide if it will fit in my garage or i'll have to store it at my parents house which has huge areas for RV's/boats etc.

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If you have a 7 foot tall standard garage (84") it will fit, you have to take out the bolt and washer that stops the tower so it will lower further down. I also have a 1 inch lip and mine fits with inches to spare. You can just add a longer bolt if you would like so it stops right above the steering wheel (tilted all the way is the best angle for the wheel to be in for this). Or you can just remove the bolt and washer all together and rest the tower on an object ( a 2 by 4, a pipe you have to cut to the exact height, a step ladder, etc.) I did the modification with a longer bolt, worked like a charm except I forgot the lock Tite on the threads of the tower assembly and it vibrates both sides loose, haven't got back around to fixing it so I just rest it on a metal pipe with a blanket on top of it so it doesn't scratch the tower. I lock tited the bolt washer,etc and it was good to go, just forgot the threads on the piece connected to the tower itself was my mistake. I will take pictures here shortly and show you what I mean. If your garage is less than 7 foot, there is probably no way to make it fit, unless you let some air out of the tires and do all of the above then maybe

Crob83 said:

If you have a 7 foot tall standard garage (84") it will fit, you have to take out the bolt and washer that stops the tower so it will lower further down. I also have a 1 inch lip and mine fits with inches to spare. You can just add a longer bolt if you would like so it stops right above the steering wheel (tilted all the way is the best angle for the wheel to be in for this). Or you can just remove the bolt and washer all together and rest the tower on an object ( a 2 by 4, a pipe you have to cut to the exact height, a step ladder, etc.) I did the modification with a longer bolt, worked like a charm except I forgot the lock Tite on the threads of the tower assembly and it vibrates both sides loose, haven't got back around to fixing it so I just rest it on a metal pipe with a blanket on top of it so it doesn't scratch the tower. I lock tited the bolt washer,etc and it was good to go, just forgot the threads on the piece connected to the tower itself was my mistake. I will take pictures here shortly and show you what I mean. If your garage is less than 7 foot, there is probably no way to make it fit, unless you let some air out of the tires and do all of the above then maybe

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Here are pics of both options

Apparently I just took a pic of my feet in the last picture....lmao

Crob83 said:

Here are pics of both options

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thank you for that!

How do you get to those tower cables to loosen or tighten them? One of mine just randomly came unscrewed. I have all the pieces but not sure how to easily get in there to fix it.

Wright2e said:

How do you get to those tower cables to loosen or tighten them? One of mine just randomly came unscrewed. I have all the pieces but not sure how to easily get in there to fix it.

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I used my step son, no way I was fitting down in those compartments....lol. And I held the tower in the position that gave it the most slack. Make sure you blue loctite everything and I mean everything or it will vibrate loose

Crob83 said:

Here are pics of both options

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Did exactly the same. Works great.

@Mike Cardillo - Is there an opening between the swim deck radio and the battery compartment or did you need to drill a hole?