2020 195S Build Thread WARNING PIC HEAVY

[Hoyt]

@Hoyt

So if all goes according to plan I’ll be bringing my 2022 AR195 (green) home from the dealer on Tuesday. On Saturday I randomly text my local dealer and asked if they had heard anything about the 2023 release dates and he said nope but I do have a 2022 AR195 that the guy it was for ran into financing problems with.

I was ecstatic! I went up right away. Checked everything out. MSRP + $2k in freight and delivery. Gave a deposit to hold until financing was done. All it needs to be ready is a good clean and wash and battery install so Tuesday seems reasonable.

With that being said I have a ton of stuff I want to do with it, but also want to soak up the rest of the summer first.

Short term list (big trip 2nd weekend of September I’d like to be done before):
Stoltz bow roller
Sea deck on the step thru and seat
Replace head unit with kicker head unit
Install an amp to push factory polk speakers

Long term list (before next season):
Add a battery with switch and charger
Tower speakers (add another amp)
Replace factory speakers with kickers
Add a transom table/umbrella mount
Add a transom audio remote
Soundproof piping

So I think I know what I’m doing with the amp install, but I always appreciate someone checking my work here! See diagram below and tell me if my plan makes sense. I think I’m set on going with a KMA Series 4-channel marine amplifier — 65 watts RMS x 4 mounted under the helm.

View attachment 184743

Follow up questions:

If I know I’m adding tower speakers in the future am I better off trying to find a good marine 6 channel amp, or is my thinking good on two amps (one for cabin speakers Qty 4 and one for tower speakers Qty 2)?

Do you think I’ll be ok with one battery the rest of the season if it’s just the single amp to push the polks already installed? I’ll of course keep a jump pack but would be thrilled if I could make batter a winter project.

I’m going to have way more questions when it comes to my second amp install and tower speakers, but I figure that can wait and keep you entertained over winter!

Your sketch is mostly correct. Only thing wrong is your speaker wires will no longer be coming from head unit after a amp install. They will be powered by the amp from then on.

Now for your amp I'll highly recommend you go a 6 channel amp. Make sure it has enough power for your future cabin (kicker) speakers. Then you can use it to power cabin, and still have extra channels for a bridged sub (again if you want in future).

Now for your towers id go 4 or 6 channel amp there. Then you can bridge channel 1-4 to towers, and if you go 6 channel you'll have extra if ever needed later.

As far as second battery you should be fine until winter. Just don't run it hard for hours on end

 

[Jashworth03]

Your sketch is mostly correct. Only thing wrong is your speaker wires will no longer be coming from head unit after a amp install. They will be powered by the amp from then on.

Now for your amp I'll highly recommend you go a 6 channel amp. Make sure it has enough power for your future cabin (kicker) speakers. Then you can use it to power cabin, and still have extra channels for a bridged sub (again if you want in future).

Now for your towers id go 4 or 6 channel amp there. Then you can bridge channel 1-4 to towers, and if you go 6 channel you'll have extra if ever needed later.

As far as second battery you should be fine until winter. Just don't run it hard for hours on end

Got it! The speakers I’m moving to can handle max 75w at 4 ohms. When I do move to those speakers, should I run new speaker wires (thinking here is that I'll run RGB wires anyway, so why not)? Wanted your opinion here.

 

[Hoyt]

Got it! The speakers I’m moving to can handle max 75w at 4 ohms. When I do move to those speakers, should I run new speaker wires (thinking here is that I'll run RGB wires anyway, so why not)? Wanted your opinion here.

I would run new speaker wires. Factory equipped wires are super small gauge.

 

[Jashworth03]

I would run new speaker wires. Factory equipped wires are super small gauge.

Copy that. Are the wires zip tied to anything along their runs? Could I use them as fish tape to pull the new wire thru?

 

[Hoyt]

Copy that. Are the wires zip tied to anything along their runs? Could I use them as fish tape to pull the new wire thru?

I left all my stock wires in place if I needed to ever go back to stock. Super easy to fish down the boat though

 

[Jashworth03]

I left all my stock wires in place if I needed to ever go back to stock. Super easy to fish down the boat though

@Hoyt - got another for ya. I went ahead and ordered the kicker 6.5’s already because… why not. I ordered the ones with LED’s. Seemed like a cool effect for minimal cost.

How does my diagram look here?

 

[Hoyt]

@Hoyt - got another for ya. I went ahead and ordered the kicker 6.5’s already because… why not. I ordered the ones with LED’s. Seemed like a cool effect for minimal cost.

How does my diagram look here?

View attachment 185093

Yep that looks good to me

 

[Jashworth03]

Yep that looks good to me

Finally picked her up! I've got a busy evening ahead of me!

 

[Hoyt]

Finally picked her up! I've got a busy evening ahead of me!
View attachment 185192

View attachment 185194

Nice. Splash that girl first, and ASAP

 

[Jashworth03]

Nice. Splash that girl first, and ASAP

Its last weekend before school goes back around my parts. Going to wait until Monday so I can spend allll the time maneuvering breaking in without heavy traffic.

Thought of a question. Do I have to do something special to tell my head units to push out thru the RCA’s vs speaker wire to the head unit?

 

[Hoyt]

Thought of a question. Do I have to do something special to tell my head units to push out thru the RCA’s vs speaker wire to the head unit?

Nope. Once you plug in rca to head unit, and then rca to amp that's all the signal it needs. Speaker wires through head unit won't be needed anymore since you'll be new wiring speakers to amp

 

[Jashworth03]

Quick progress report:

Everything is in, mounted, and functioning!! I have a hiss coming thru the speakers that is ultra annoying. I’ve checked everything and can’t find an error point. I’ll worry about that later. Still have some wire hide to do.

Quick notes:
Routing wires in this boat is insanely easy
The kicker LED setup is a pain in the ass
Replacing the Jensen head unit is a no brainer. Makes the boat look and feel so much nicer
If I don’t see another heat gun, heat shrink, or roll of soder again for 6 months I’ll be pleased

let me know what you think and if you have ideas on the hiss!

 

[Hoyt]

Quick progress report:

Everything is in, mounted, and functioning!! I have a hiss coming thru the speakers that is ultra annoying. I’ve checked everything and can’t find an error point. I’ll worry about that later. Still have some wire hide to do.

Quick notes:
Routing wires in this boat is insanely easy
The kicker LED setup is a pain in the ass
Replacing the Jensen head unit is a no brainer. Makes the boat look and feel so much nicer
If I don’t see another heat gun, heat shrink, or roll of soder again for 6 months I’ll be pleased

let me know what you think and if you have ideas on the hiss!View attachment 185279
View attachment 185280
View attachment 185281

Looks good my man. The hiss 100% is a bad ground. It's either ground on head unit, ground on amp, or crappy rca cables. It may go away, but if it does not then run new grounds (not stock wires) yourself directly to battery negative on both new components (amp and head unit). If it's still there then upgrade rca cables

 

[Hoyt]

So here's an update for yall on the pipe insulation engine hatch sound deadening. Definitely a noticeable difference. Not like OMG is so quiet, but if you've been without it for awhile then you'll notice. Biggest thing for me was how solid the hatch now feels when stepping on it. No more wiggles, and that's great for me. Not like we can really hear engine noise over sound system anyway. On Facebook 19' group another guy did the exact thing after seeing it here, and he did a decibel test. Lowered decibel reading by 20. So it's noticeable. For less then $20......i ain't complaining.

So because I must always post a pic..... Got the required storage unit pic. Only because truck was clean, and it's never clean. Boat is ALWAYS clean though


Oh and another.... Look they actually used the swim deck. It was partly cloudy and only 82° so they were cold in a 5-10mph wind . This is my normal crew. 2 daughters, wife on left, and wife's bestie on right

 

[Hoyt]

Here's a link to the 19' Facebook group. Not as busy as the other groups I'm sure yall are in, but if you ain't in there you ain't in the know

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[Jashworth03]

So here's an update for yall on the pipe insulation engine hatch sound deadening. Definitely a noticeable difference. Not like OMG is so quiet, but if you've been without it for awhile then you'll notice. Biggest thing for me was how solid the hatch now feels when stepping on it. No more wiggles, and that's great for me. Not like we can really hear engine noise over sound system anyway. On Facebook 19' group another guy did the exact thing after seeing it here, and he did a decibel test. Lowered decibel reading by 20. So it's noticeable. For less then $20......i ain't complaining.

So because I must always post a pic..... Got the required storage unit pic. Only because truck was clean, and it's never clean. Boat is ALWAYS clean though
View attachment 185575

Oh and another.... Look they actually used the swim deck. It was partly cloudy and only 82° so they were cold in a 5-10mph wind . This is my normal crew. 2 daughters, wife on left, and wife's bestie on right
View attachment 185576

You didn’t include pics of the piping!!

 

[Hoyt]

You didn’t include pics of the piping!!

It's on page 22 of this thread. Full write up and explanation

 

[kgower]

I did the pipe insulation over the stock runner seal. Ran it around the lower edge of the compartment and let the upper just seal against it. @kgower

In reviewing it was @Ronnie that used a product from McMaster. Did you and @Hoyt use 1/2"?

 

[Ronnie]

I don’t think there is a standard thickness/height for the material used, just measure the height of the gap between the engine compartment sides and hatch at its widest point to be sure you buy the right size material.

 

[Hoyt]

In reviewing it was @Ronnie that used a product from McMaster. Did you and @Hoyt use 1/2"?

I don't remember what size it was I used, but I can tell you it's the biggest one at Lowes