210 FSH steering cable replacement

[Liveto99]

I did not get back to it yet I’ll try tonight.

 

[Liveto99]

So I put some grease and attached the y onto the cable and just attached it to the nozzle by dropping the bolt through.

 

[Liveto99]

I sprayed cable lube on the steer rack and let it sit up for a bit to run into the cable. Then I figured I better find a grease that was compatible with that to put on the rock. I tried three different ones mobile one synthetic grease seemed the best.

 

[Liveto99]

I coated the rack with it and attached it to the steering gear with the 4 bolts. It doesn’t matter where the rock is the steering wheel can turn indefinitely. Although I noticed the shaft under the steering wheel was rusting, so look out for that, and or lubricate that.

 

[Liveto99]

I then checked the nozzles, but realized that they never moved off center so I cleaned the threads and tightened up the nuts. Threw a little adhesive after the nylocks because they were already used.

 

[Liveto99]

Stuck some grease on the cable slides tightened the lock nut and tested. have a nice day and good luck. The only thing I would’ve done different is use debonding agent on the penetrations through the transom before I tried to take them out.

 

[Liveto99]

I will look at putting in hydraulic steering. Just a FYI.

 

[Floridaman79]

I just replaced my cables and figured I would share what worked and what I did that I might improve on.

I ordered a 22mm O2 sensor socket which worked great to loosen the nut to remove the cable. I also got a roll of 40 feet of paracord from the dollar store and some 5200 sealant and marine silicone.

Taking the nut off the cable was a piece of cake with the socket. I backed the nut off until it was almost off the threads, then took a piece of pvc pipe and slipped over the cable and hit with a hammer to break the cable loose thru the transom. Then finished removing the nut.

Then I took the paracord and tied it to the port cable and wrapped with electrical tape to streamline. Did the starboard same way but tied a knot in the paracord before connecting to the cable so I could distinguise. Disconnected the cable from the helm and pulled it out.

Tied the new cable ends to the paracord and using a helper to pull the paracord I pushed from the helm. Took about a minute to route the cables this way.

Sealed with 5200 and got more on my clothes than i did the boat. One thing to note is that the cable comes with washers for both sides but only uses the washer on the aft side.

After tightening the cables i centered the cables on the steering wheel. I did this by attaching the cable then turning the steering wheel until full stop clockwise and counterclockwise, noting where the steering knob stopped. Then i split the difference of the stops which was the center of the rack. Then disconnected the cable at the helm, turned the steering wheel to top dead center and reconnected the cables.

The method in the manual to center the nozzles is to take a measurement from the transom plate to the bolt that attaches the clevis to the nozzle and set that to 300mm. When I did that the nozzles were obviously not centered, so I eyeballed it and just made sure the nozzles had the same dimension, which for me turned out to be about 11.5 inches.

While I had the aft access panel off, I went thru and tightened hose clamps, which most all were loose. Then shot everything with yamalube maintenance silicone spray.

Some of the screws for the access panel were stripped, so will fill with marine tex and drill out prior to reinstalling.

Thanks to @Liveto99 for a much better writeup than I would have done!

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Floridaman79
I wouldn't have used 5200 on that. If you ever need to take it off again it is going to be rough, and the issues we have all been having you never know. The force of tightening the nut is what is sealing it. You don't need the adhesive of 5200 either for that application.

 

[_frank]

No need to remove the bucket cover. Just push em right though into the bilge. There is a washer on the inside as well. Once you push them through it gets easier. The socket that I use is an O2 sensor socket. You should of been able to get one from your local auto supply. Works like a champ. Have done 6 cable replacements, including mine to date. Just helped someone last night local as well. I bought 1 off of amazon, and then got another from Auto Zone. Since I lost my first one, and now have found it.

I would grab some debond or other silicon/adshive solvent and while you are waiting for the socket, get some on the silicone inside around the cable and washer where it comes through the hull. Good time to take care of your clean out tray and if you have a marine store around of have one, a second bilge pump down in the bilge. Just some thoughts.

We have a '17 FSH190. I saw this video and felt confident with the removal, but ran into an issue. I was tapping the existing wire in after removing the nut and washer on the stern exterior. However, even after removing the glob of silicone on the inside of the hull, the cable won't budge. I can't see anything else holding it in place and have a hard time believing there is still such resistance. For those that have done this, am I missing something?

 

[HangOutdoors]

Long as you have the nut off it should be good to go. You can try soaking the around it with DeBond a bit. Then rap the end of it with the hammer to push it through.

 

[_frank]

Long as you have the nut off it should be good to go. You can try soaking the around it with DeBond a bit. Then rap the end of it with the hammer to push it through.

So there's nothing that would be physically securing it on the inside part of the hull outside of silicone? I haven't tried solvent, but will do that next. Wanted to make sure I wasn't chasing the wrong problem here.