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275SDX

No and that is just poor quality control they should have checked it at the couplers it is obvious if they are not aligned correctly. If they have to replace the intermediate bearing assembly that is a bigger problem as the engine has to be moved forward and the pump pulled so the assembly can be replaced , if they don't replace it and the seals were damaged by the misaligned engine you will probably be doing it sooner than later.
 
Yeah, that's what basically they told me. They would have to order shims to correct the alignment. Not sure if they forgot them from the factory or didn't use the right ones or what. Regardless shouldn't have needed to be corrected on a new boat.

That's one of the reasons I suggested you don't use the boat any longer. The water leak, vibration and poor time-to-plane was pointing to a pump issue.

There was a guy on here with a 275SD a couple years back and he had a similar vibration. Eventually the shaft snapped and he later did something as well to blow the engine. Both very rare occurrences but his posts put me on the fence about buying a 275SD and another Yamaha.

I had a great experience with my SX192 so ultimately I decided to go with the 275SD and so far have been pleased and have had very few minor issues. Although.... I found an engine shim in the bilge under the starboard engine. I was worried about the shaft and pump alignment but didn;t have any vibration or performance issues. Both the selling dealer and 10-hour service dealer felt someone dropped the shim and didn't retrieve it. They also found a hose clamp in the bilge.

There is a guy at my marina with a '23 275SDX and he said he has been very pleased with his boat so far. He did have a fuse blow but other than that he is very happy with the boat and seems to use it almost every weekend.

Hopefully they get your boat resolved properly and you can put this behind you.



As far as Quality Control.... its not just your boat. The RV and Boat industries don't have the stringent protocols and processes around quality that automobile manufacturers have. I have a motorhome I bought in 4 years ago with pre-COVID sticker price of $220K (today the same model has a $290K peice tag). I ended up paying $160K for it new but I have put hundreds of hours and well over $12,000 in repairs and upgrades to fix a multitude of problems..... some of which included a structural issue the manufacturer fixed one and still failed and then I fixed it myself the way it should have been built at the factory!
 
That's one of the reasons I suggested you don't use the boat any longer. The water leak, vibration and poor time-to-plane was pointing to a pump issue.

There was a guy on here with a 275SD a couple years back and he had a similar vibration. Eventually the shaft snapped and he later did something as well to blow the engine. Both very rare occurrences but his posts put me on the fence about buying a 275SD and another Yamaha.

I had a great experience with my SX192 so ultimately I decided to go with the 275SD and so far have been pleased and have had very few minor issues. Although.... I found an engine shim in the bilge under the starboard engine. I was worried about the shaft and pump alignment but didn;t have any vibration or performance issues. Both the selling dealer and 10-hour service dealer felt someone dropped the shim and didn't retrieve it. They also found a hose clamp in the bilge.

There is a guy at my marina with a '23 275SDX and he said he has been very pleased with his boat so far. He did have a fuse blow but other than that he is very happy with the boat and seems to use it almost every weekend.

Hopefully they get your boat resolved properly and you can put this behind you.



As far as Quality Control.... its not just your boat. The RV and Boat industries don't have the stringent protocols and processes around quality that automobile manufacturers have. I have a motorhome I bought in 4 years ago with pre-COVID sticker price of $220K (today the same model has a $290K peice tag). I ended up paying $160K for it new but I have put hundreds of hours and well over $12,000 in repairs and upgrades to fix a multitude of problems..... some of which included a structural issue the manufacturer fixed one and still failed and then I fixed it myself the way it should have been built at the factory!

I appreciate the insight. It blows my mind that QC is a such an issue with these "luxury" products. I realize that the value proposition is great with Yamaha boats but obviously it's a quality sacrifice for price. $160k for a boat isn't exactly cheap but I also realize it's not a Whaler or Grady.
 
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No and that is just poor quality control they should have checked it at the couplers it is obvious if they are not aligned correctly. If they have to replace the intermediate bearing assembly that is a bigger problem as the engine has to be moved forward and the pump pulled so the assembly can be replaced , if they don't replace it and the seals were damaged by the misaligned engine you will probably be doing it sooner than later.
That makes sense, I'm going to see if they're planning on a preemptive replacement of the intermediate bearing assembly.
 
That makes sense, I'm going to see if they're planning on a preemptive replacement of the intermediate bearing assembly.
They're replacing the intermediate bearing assembly and the shaft as well. All parts have been ordered and should be in next week. Hopefully I'll be back on the water by next weekend.
 
Update: they did the work on the starboard motor. Runs much smoother now. However the leak is a whole other story. Apparently, all the cupholders were leaking. They were all sealed and then it was the swim platform tie down eye that was leaking. It looks like Yamaha failed to pretty much seal anything on the back of the boat. Boat is still in the shop trying to make sure there are no more leaks.
 
Update: they did the work on the starboard motor. Runs much smoother now. However the leak is a whole other story. Apparently, all the cupholders were leaking. They were all sealed and then it was the swim platform tie down eye that was leaking. It looks like Yamaha failed to pretty much seal anything on the back of the boat. Boat is still in the shop trying to make sure there are no more leaks.

Glad the motor / pump issue was resolved.

My 275SD was bone dry the first 15 hours. Then I started getting in the bilge. It seems to happen mostly when the boat is moored versus underway.

I was worried it was my trim tab install but I can see several of the screws and there is no water seeping in from the trim tab mounting screws. I have been trying to track it down but no luck so far. I will probably have the dealer look at it when I take it in for the 50-hour service (I'm at 35 hours now).

I'm just hoping my YES warranty will cover it since the factory warranty expired before I ever could get the boat into the water because of Hurricane Ian.
 
Glad the motor / pump issue was resolved.

My 275SD was bone dry the first 15 hours. Then I started getting in the bilge. It seems to happen mostly when the boat is moored versus underway.

I was worried it was my trim tab install but I can see several of the screws and there is no water seeping in from the trim tab mounting screws. I have been trying to track it down but no luck so far. I will probably have the dealer look at it when I take it in for the 50-hour service (I'm at 35 hours now).

I'm just hoping my YES warranty will cover it since the factory warranty expired before I ever could get the boat into the water because of Hurricane Ian.

The best way apparently is to have the dealer/service tech fill the boat with water and see where it leaks on the outside, believe it or not. They've done that to mine and even tipped it to a 45 degree angle to the rear to spot leaks. The other way is to make sure everything is dry, put it in the water, and examine visually and/or with a snake camera--that's how they determined the cup holders were leaking.
 
The best way apparently is to have the dealer/service tech fill the boat with water and see where it leaks on the outside, believe it or not. They've done that to mine and even tipped it to a 45 degree angle to the rear to spot leaks. The other way is to make sure everything is dry, put it in the water, and examine visually and/or with a snake camera--that's how they determined the cup holders were leaking.

Thanks for the tips.... I'll have to see what the dealer says about tracking it down.

I know it is not my cup holders since I resealed them before I ever put the boat in the water.... and I seem to get more water when the boat is just sitting at the dock awhile after it has been put in the water from the dry rack.

It seems like I get more water after it has been put in and then less after I have been running it and then let it sit in the water.
 
Thanks for the tips.... I'll have to see what the dealer says about tracking it down.

I know it is not my cup holders since I resealed them before I ever put the boat in the water.... and I seem to get more water when the boat is just sitting at the dock awhile after it has been put in the water from the dry rack.

It seems like I get more water after it has been put in and then less after I have been running it and then let it sit in the water.

That's probably because the forward motion of the boat is pushing the water into the bilge and to the pump eliminating it. When it's collecting at a standstill not all the water makes it to where the pump is in the rear of the boat. Anywhere there is a penetration in the hull is a possible culprit. On my boat, they're saying it could be possible the cap in which case I think I get a new boat.
 
That's probably because the forward motion of the boat is pushing the water into the bilge and to the pump eliminating it. When it's collecting at a standstill not all the water makes it to where the pump is in the rear of the boat. Anywhere there is a penetration in the hull is a possible culprit. On my boat, they're saying it could be possible the cap in which case I think I get a new boat.
Interesting, if the cap where the hull parts are conected is leaking it would not take on any water sitting usually it is the intermediate bearing that lets water in when the boat is anchored or a through hull fitting,
 
Interesting, if the cap where the hull parts are conected is leaking it would not take on any water sitting usually it is the intermediate bearing that lets water in when the boat is anchored or a through hull fitting,
I'd agree with you except if it's not sealed at the seam around the swim platform. That's pretty low and gets water over it a lot. That's where they're concerned on mine.
 
I'd agree with you except if it's not sealed at the seam around the swim platform. That's pretty low and gets water over it a lot. That's where they're concerned on mine.
ok but I did not realize that was under water sitting still, I usually use a hose and walk around the cap shooting water under it and see if it leaks or shows signs of water entering the boat from the force of the hose.
 
That's probably because the forward motion of the boat is pushing the water into the bilge and to the pump eliminating it. When it's collecting at a standstill not all the water makes it to where the pump is in the rear of the boat. Anywhere there is a penetration in the hull is a possible culprit. On my boat, they're saying it could be possible the cap in which case I think I get a new boat.

That's not it because if I stop after running or I am anchored after running I'm getting much less water out than after the boat has sat moored at the dock.
 
For anyone that's curious: it wasn't the cap. I bought a bore snake camera and checked around the swim platform and it was sealed quite well. They found leaks in the underwater light, cupholders, D-rings. After that, there was still water under the motor so I investigated myself and found none of the screws that attach the swim platform back rests were sealed. Water was pouring in from like 6 holes when you launch the boat and when you slow down quickly. Having those sealed and hopefully that's the end of it.
 
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Hello M5Law. M5 driver?
I have a 2023 SDX. If you mean water on top of the clean out ports after use…yes there is water on top of my clean outs.
As for the turning question it seems to vary on the speed, angle, and water conditions. This is my first boat so I am still learning but so far I am very pleased with the overall package. Bummer on the engine. Hopefully your dealer has a good tech to diagnose it.
 
Hello M5Law. M5 driver?
I have a 2023 SDX. If you mean water on top of the clean out ports after use…yes there is water on top of my clean outs.
As for the turning question it seems to vary on the speed, angle, and water conditions. This is my first boat so I am still learning but so far I am very pleased with the overall package. Bummer on the engine. Hopefully your dealer has a good tech to diagnose it.
Yeah, I had an F90 M5, but traded it a while back when the M3 Comp xdrive I ordered came in.

Check your back compartments (next to the clean outs) and see if you have water there. Water comes up from the clean out plugs as they don't seal very well--confirmed by Yamaha as a design issue--and it comes in through the drains sometimes as well. A major source of water in my hull was that water getting in around the seams around the panel that covers that area and is screwed down. They sealed around that entire panel and I sealed the screws and added a riser to the access cover preventing water from seeping in around the cover. Not to mention, almost every piece of hardware on the swim platform and stern was not sealed properly and had to be resealed including the lights, D rings, cupholders, scupper valve, screws securing back rests.

At one point when I pulled the bilge plug on the ramp after pulling the boat out, the water drained out full speed for over 3 minutes. Had to be 10 gallons of water. I now have that down to about a half cup. However I'm still getting some water in the back compartment that seeps under the starboard engine. Probably about a cup. Can't figure out where it's coming from. Not a big deal but annoys me, especially since there's no way for it to drain.

As far as the overheat issue, they kept saying it was an error and the engine wasn't actually overheating. Ultimately, after replacing very expensive components (ECU, Head unit, etc.) they determined it was overheating in one portion of the engine and replaced the thermostat and that fixed it.
 
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