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Power loading is prohibited in our area so guides are of no use to us. Plus I'd rather hand-load because it guarantees no scratches, centers nicely, and we're usually 2-3x faster than all the bass boats with guides trying to get on the trailer. We're usually in the staging area getting ready to drive off when they're just pulling out of the water, and they arrived at the ramp before us.
You should put on the safety chain before you pull out of the water and up the ramp. If you have a winch or strap failure, the safety chain will keep your boat from landing on the ramp...that would not be a good day.
Last time out was much better. I had moved my winch tower back 3". So the tongue weight is better, and it does align up better on the bunks. But like you said, the wind can push it off center very easily, unless you have someone back there to hold it.
I cannot remember who did this, I think it was @Ronnie, but they replaced their bunks with longer boards, and it helped them with "catching" the trailer sooner. Sounds like it might be a help to your situation.
Power loading is prohibited in our area so guides are of no use to us. Plus I'd rather hand-load because it guarantees no scratches, centers nicely, and we're usually 2-3x faster than all the bass boats with guides trying to get on the trailer. We're usually in the staging area getting ready to drive off when they're just pulling out of the water, and they arrived at the ramp before us.
I use the guides to help me load/unload when I'm by myself, especially when it's windy. They also help me when backing into my storage unit. I don't plan to ever power load my boat, on or off. Like you said, improves your chances of not damaging your boat. I'm on board.
I use the guides to help me load/unload when I'm by myself, especially when it's windy. They also help me when backing into my storage unit. I don't plan to ever power load my boat, on or off. Like you said, improves your chances of not damaging your boat. I'm on board.
Power loading is prohibited in our area so guides are of no use to us. Plus I'd rather hand-load because it guarantees no scratches, centers nicely, and we're usually 2-3x faster than all the bass boats with guides trying to get on the trailer. We're usually in the staging area getting ready to drive off when they're just pulling out of the water, and they arrived at the ramp before us.
No one indicated they were power loading...... There is a difference between power loading and gliding your boat on the trailer through the guides and while your engines are off. Haven't seen anyone indicate that they are actually Power Loading like the Bass Boats, which is ignorant and lazy and destroys the area around the ramps. Using Guides and Power Loading are different things and should be. I don't have issue with scratches or centering and also am extremely quick and efficient loading and unloading boat. Additionally I will guarantee in a good cross current or wind the guides make it much easier, especially when you don't have help.
You should put on the safety chain before you pull out of the water and up the ramp. If you have a winch or strap failure, the safety chain will keep your boat from landing on the ramp...that would not be a good day.
My boat is still over the water and I only put on the safety chain after the abrupt stop to snug the boat. I don't want the chain smacking against the boat. Once snugged the safety chain goes on.
Your boat will push the car forward while its transmission gears are engaged in park. Puts repeated undue stress on the gear teeth. Ever feel how hard it is to shift into drive while the car is parked on an incline? it’s because there is a load on the gears. Same principle.
Are you installing a Stoltz roller or the same one shown in picture? If installing a Stoltz, there is a washer for under the head of the new bolt, and another one for under the nut. I cannot recommend the one you have pictured. My trailer came with that roller and destroyed my gelcoat.
Are you installing a Stoltz roller or the same one shown in picture? If installing a Stoltz, there is a washer for under the head of the new bolt, and another one for under the nut. I cannot recommend the one you have pictured. My trailer came with that roller and destroyed my gelcoat.
How do you trim 1/4”-3/8” off each side of the center roller?
I tried a table saw with general purpose blade. Didn’t cut straight and gummed up the blade. Stopped pretty quick so it’s still salvageable.
Suggestions appreciated
How do you trim 1/4”-3/8” off each side of the center roller?
I tried a table saw with general purpose blade. Didn’t cut straight and gummed up the blade. Stopped pretty quick so it’s still salvageable.
Suggestions appreciated
Stoltz 3.5 " This is a custom modified RP-446 cut down to fit a 3.5" bracket Comes with RP-325 bottle cap ends, bolt, nut and washers available with different caps or without bolt upon request
How do you trim 1/4”-3/8” off each side of the center roller?
I tried a table saw with general purpose blade. Didn’t cut straight and gummed up the blade. Stopped pretty quick so it’s still salvageable.
Suggestions appreciated
How do you trim 1/4”-3/8” off each side of the center roller?
I tried a table saw with general purpose blade. Didn’t cut straight and gummed up the blade. Stopped pretty quick so it’s still salvageable.
Stoltz 3.5 " This is a custom modified RP-446 cut down to fit a 3.5" bracket Comes with RP-325 bottle cap ends, bolt, nut and washers available with different caps or without bolt upon request
Yeah, it will, but it's the easiest way to get consistent results with a flat end to the roller. It also goes a LOT quicker than you might think, so be careful. I did my old blue roller, make sure you're outside, the static cling will crap up the siding on the house for several weeks if you aren't paying attention - ask me how I know
