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Battery tender vs onboard battery charger.

The plugs I purchased were very close to the Yamaha requirement in the owners manual. The plugs I took out from the factory/dealership were actually around .017” out of spec. I was shocked.
 
Wow. Ok, thanks I’ll order these and double check the gaps prior to install.
 
No reason to use Iridium plugs. You will not see any benefit. Plus you will be changing them every year or two anyhow.
 
I may be wrong, but I seem to remember the tolerance being .030” to .035”, I set mine at .033”. As a back up, I kept the old plugs in the boat with some quick tools in the event I had an issue, I could be the old ones in and motor back. A bit of security until I broke the new plugs in.
 
No reason to use Iridium plugs. You will not see any benefit. Plus you will be changing them every year or two anyhow.
I only went with the iridium plugs as they were Pennie’s different online.
 
Thanks. I read it, but it seemed the guy was solving for a problem I don’t have (wanting to leave the boat/battery at a slip without power all season). My boat will either be in a garage or at our pier, both with power. I’m not afraid to buy what I need, but I’m wondering if this is beyond my needs. Or maybe not. Just don’t know yet…

I didn’t realize you were going to leave it at a pier with power….definitely get an onboard charger set up so you can plug in easy at the pier and at home.
Not sure if you saw this. Good write up on single battery.


I think I have read that link once before, but re read it just the same. That’s a lot of information there on the AGM’s. So how do I say this succinctly and quickly.…

AGM batteries can charge quicker by the nature of their construction, if you look at the manufacturers web sites, or contact interstate like I did a while back, AGM batteries can be charged at 25A’s as long as the voltage does not exceed 14.4 volts-very important is 14.4 volts. That is not mentioned at all in the lengthy thread. FLA batteries are usually in the 14.8 to 15V range and this can be witnessed by check battery voltage during charging on at least the Minnkota PC MK 220 & 330 chargers that I have, but FLA batteries can only be charged at 10-13% of their C20 rating, which is roughly 10A per 100Ah of battery.

The first post states that agm batteries can be charged faster than any chemistry, not true, LiFePO4 batteries can be charged without degradation at 50c, or 50 A on a 100Ah battery. This has a lot to do with resistance, the less resistance the less heat and the greater the charge rate in an AGM battery and this is due mainly to the surface area of the plates making for less resistance, unless I am mistaken, and that is why AGM batteries typically have a resting fully charged voltage of 12.9 volts.

Some great points there about smaller batteries, and the state of charge on said batteries in concert with our boats.. less than dramatic charge rates. By the way the output is far less than 25 A’s as contemplated by the OP in that other thread, its more like a total of 14A’s per engine or a 200 watt stator-I will be measuring this for our TR-1’s at the beginning of the season with the smart shunt I’m going to install for the house battery but will hook up both the start and house grounds to measure the full output and I am going to apply enough load until I see the voltage start to decay, and with the shunt on the batteries I can see current stop flowing into the batteries and start flowing out of the batteries in addition to both engines running at 3500 rpm which is peak out put, stay tuned for that. Having said that, it is a great point that a smaller lead acid battery will charge up faster than a larger one to approximately 80%, but what was not mentioned in that thread was the absorption phase of the smart charger with typically takes 8 hours to complete on both flooded and AGM batteries. While sulphation will be decreased, it is still going to occur unless the battery is fully charged. Again, the smaller battery will get charged up relatively quickly but our chargers will not charge these batteries enough to protect them from sulphating in a short period of time. Lest assume for a moment that a given house battery is discharged, mmmm say 35 Ah while out on the lake, and our boats chargers can put out, lets just say 12A’s total between the two at 3500 rpms-8 amps to run each engine and 6 left over for charging on each engine. Its going to take roughly 3 hours at that peak charging engine rpm to put back the 35 Ah’s of used capacity, at full charge, but, I’d need to see how our reg/rect’s handle charging lead acid batteries to see that. Typically with lead acid batteries the charge rate will start falling off due to the reg seeing the battery starting to get charged / resistance/ lower potential difference, and a fair amount of the charge will now start getting shunted to ground.. So yes, if one is not going to be able to put the batteries on a charger at the end of the day, regularly, the the smaller batteries make sense-except for LiFePO4 batteries which do not experience any degradation when left in a partial state of discharge.

So for the OP, his boat is going to have electricity to re charge the battery at the end of each day. It then depends on how he will use his boat and the amount of Ah’s in a day that he will use. A group 24 AGM will be a great choice if he is not going to be installing a big stereo, making margaritas with a 12V blender all day, floating at night with added lights and such. If he is going to listen to the stock stereo, perhaps blow some Barney towable’s for guests and charge a few cell phones the G24 AGM will be great, as long as it gets fully charged at the end of each day, with a proper charger, again, that depends on turnaround time as well, have to let the charger complete its cycle. That last bit is the problem I was running into with my boat, I’d get home at 2200hrs after all day on the lake and then wake up at 0400hrs and decide I wanted to go walleye fishing at another lake that day and my FLA batteries would not be charged using a 10A charger, they typically needed 12 hours to charge back up. I solved all of that by going to LiFePO4 batteries and 25 A chargers.

All good stuff! Thanks for linking that older thread, it was good to read all that info.
 
I didn’t realize you were going to leave it at a pier with power….definitely get an onboard charger set up so you can plug in easy at the pier and at home.


I think I have read that link once before, but re read it just the same. That’s a lot of information there on the AGM’s. So how do I say this succinctly and quickly.…

AGM batteries can charge quicker by the nature of their construction, if you look at the manufacturers web sites, or contact interstate like I did a while back, AGM batteries can be charged at 25A’s as long as the voltage does not exceed 14.4 volts-very important is 14.4 volts. That is not mentioned at all in the lengthy thread. FLA batteries are usually in the 14.8 to 15V range and this can be witnessed by check battery voltage during charging on at least the Minnkota PC MK 220 & 330 chargers that I have, but FLA batteries can only be charged at 10-13% of their C20 rating, which is roughly 10A per 100Ah of battery.

The first post states that agm batteries can be charged faster than any chemistry, not true, LiFePO4 batteries can be charged without degradation at 50c, or 50 A on a 100Ah battery. This has a lot to do with resistance, the less resistance the less heat and the greater the charge rate in an AGM battery and this is due mainly to the surface area of the plates making for less resistance, unless I am mistaken, and that is why AGM batteries typically have a resting fully charged voltage of 12.9 volts.

Some great points there about smaller batteries, and the state of charge on said batteries in concert with our boats.. less than dramatic charge rates. By the way the output is far less than 25 A’s as contemplated by the OP in that other thread, its more like a total of 14A’s per engine or a 200 watt stator-I will be measuring this for our TR-1’s at the beginning of the season with the smart shunt I’m going to install for the house battery but will hook up both the start and house grounds to measure the full output and I am going to apply enough load until I see the voltage start to decay, and with the shunt on the batteries I can see current stop flowing into the batteries and start flowing out of the batteries in addition to both engines running at 3500 rpm which is peak out put, stay tuned for that. Having said that, it is a great point that a smaller lead acid battery will charge up faster than a larger one to approximately 80%, but what was not mentioned in that thread was the absorption phase of the smart charger with typically takes 8 hours to complete on both flooded and AGM batteries. While sulphation will be decreased, it is still going to occur unless the battery is fully charged. Again, the smaller battery will get charged up relatively quickly but our chargers will not charge these batteries enough to protect them from sulphating in a short period of time. Lest assume for a moment that a given house battery is discharged, mmmm say 35 Ah while out on the lake, and our boats chargers can put out, lets just say 12A’s total between the two at 3500 rpms-8 amps to run each engine and 6 left over for charging on each engine. Its going to take roughly 3 hours at that peak charging engine rpm to put back the 35 Ah’s of used capacity, at full charge, but, I’d need to see how our reg/rect’s handle charging lead acid batteries to see that. Typically with lead acid batteries the charge rate will start falling off due to the reg seeing the battery starting to get charged / resistance/ lower potential difference, and a fair amount of the charge will now start getting shunted to ground.. So yes, if one is not going to be able to put the batteries on a charger at the end of the day, regularly, the the smaller batteries make sense-except for LiFePO4 batteries which do not experience any degradation when left in a partial state of discharge.

So for the OP, his boat is going to have electricity to re charge the battery at the end of each day. It then depends on how he will use his boat and the amount of Ah’s in a day that he will use. A group 24 AGM will be a great choice if he is not going to be installing a big stereo, making margaritas with a 12V blender all day, floating at night with added lights and such. If he is going to listen to the stock stereo, perhaps blow some Barney towable’s for guests and charge a few cell phones the G24 AGM will be great, as long as it gets fully charged at the end of each day, with a proper charger, again, that depends on turnaround time as well, have to let the charger complete its cycle. That last bit is the problem I was running into with my boat, I’d get home at 2200hrs after all day on the lake and then wake up at 0400hrs and decide I wanted to go walleye fishing at another lake that day and my FLA batteries would not be charged using a 10A charger, they typically needed 12 hours to charge back up. I solved all of that by going to LiFePO4 batteries and 25 A chargers.

All good stuff! Thanks for linking that older thread, it was good to read all that info.
Definitely a good link. And I meant the guy on the link to the old thread was solving for his situation. I very much appreciated your response. It got me to look at things I am too new to have even thought about.
 
Something I did not mention in my response above is that our boats charging systems are, as far as my research shows, a good match for LiFePO4 batteries and their ability to soak up electrons. Our charging systems are always at full output due to their fixed magnetic fields, they are often referred to as PMG or permanent magnet generators. So, to our generators and their associated regulator / rectifier there is no difference whether the output is being shunted to ground-that is what happens to the unwanted voltage/ amperage once the battery is full-or it is going to a battery. If you feel the reg / rectifier on our boats engines they are always the same temp when running whether the battery is fully charged or not. My fully electric dirt bike has the same type of system, and ironically the same size stator / alternator of 200 watts as our boats have, I always wondered why that reg / rectifier was always so hot, that was before I understood their operation. I have been running a 9ah LiFePO4 in my dirt bike for years now and it hs worked out great and I’ve never had an issue with the stator, reg / rect.

The same is not true for a variable magnetic field alternators like those found on your car, outboards, or inboards. Their regulators vary the excitation voltage to the rotor to increase or decrease the output of the alternator. Both a car type alternator and our boats alternator produce three phase AC voltage, diodes then rectify the AC voltage to DC voltage. The big issue with these type of variable excitation alternators is that by and large they were not designed for full output for an extended period of time,as led acid batteries have more resistance than LiFePO4 batteries as such the demand on lead acid batteries drops off quickly as a charge starts, even from a deeply discharged battery. There are car type alternators that are thermally protected to prevent them from burning themselves up when the load stays at 100%, as they get too hot the regulator is commanded to pull the excitation voltage back to reduce the output and heat.

How do you see yourself using your boat right now? A few hours at a time one day a week? Lots of hours on both days of the weekend?
 
Wow, great info. I envision most long weekends we get there I take the boat from the garage, launch it and then it stays ant the pier until it goes back to the garage when we go home Sunday or Monday. If it’s just me and my wife we’ll cruise around over the weekend ourselves or with neighbors, listen to the music at anchor or sandbars, go to dinner or bars on the water, then back to the pier. Maybe some fishing. If kids or friends come with we’ll tube and/or ski. So pretty basic use, and likely always back before dark until I fully know the somewhat shallow river we’re on (which opens to a large lake). The battery will be on a charger in the garage, and I can charge at the pier too if need be. Thanks again for your advice.
 
Wow, great info. I envision most long weekends we get there I take the boat from the garage, launch it and then it stays ant the pier until it goes back to the garage when we go home Sunday or Monday. If it’s just me and my wife we’ll cruise around over the weekend ourselves or with neighbors, listen to the music at anchor or sandbars, go to dinner or bars on the water, then back to the pier. Maybe some fishing. If kids or friends come with we’ll tube and/or ski. So pretty basic use, and likely always back before dark until I fully know the somewhat shallow river we’re on (which opens to a large lake). The battery will be on a charger in the garage, and I can charge at the pier too if need be. Thanks again for your advice.

We will be looking forward to your post and pics in the last outing thread!

There are several chargers that members here use with success, the NOCO Genius seems to be the most popular, Pro Mariner also is a popular choice. When I first started out I had 2- MinnKota Precision Chargers, a MK 330 for my lead acid trolling motors, and a MK 220 for my lead acid start and house batteries. My MinnKota chargers are 10A per battery, and the others are also available in 10A chargers. Based on your description of use I’d highly recommend the 10A version whichever brand you choose to make sure your battery is ready to go each day when you head out.

On several occasions I thought I had performance issues with the trolling motor charger, turned out it was just the heavy discharge I was putting on those trolling batteries and how smart chargers go about charging lead acid batteries, especially the long absorption cycle when lead acid batteries are heavily discharged. On too many occasions this caused me a delay of several hours before leaving to the lake-not acceptable. Once I switched over to LiFePO4 trolling motor batteries I was having the same performance issues, I was using the AGM setting on the MinnKota charger for the LFePO4 batteries, and that long charge time was not acceptable to me, and the LiFePO4 batteries can accept a charge rate of 50A, so I was only charging them at 1/5th what I could charge them at. So I went to Victron Energy IP67 chargers, these chargers have two amp settings, 10 & 25, as well as pre programmed charge profiles for the various batteries including lithium like other popular smart chargers, but they also have user defined profiles Aka custom. The folks at Battle Born batteries walked me through the user defined settings that BB prefers using the IP67’s Bluetooth interface which took a couple of minutes (the Bluetooth interface lets you monitor all aspects of a given charge cycle as well). Now with the Victron chargers my trolling motor batteries charge up in three and a half to four hours instead of 12-14 hours from a 80Ah discharge. I’m probably going swap out my remaining MinnKota MK 220 that’s currently being used to charge my AGM start battery and my 100Ah LiFePO4 house battery to Victron IP67’s, as there has been a couple of times the bank charging my house battery was still charging in the morning. Besides the great charging performance of the Victron chargers, they also produce a fraction of the heat that the MinnKota chargers did, which speaks to their efficiency. These Victron chargers are not cheap at $210 per charger per battery. My needs are a bit unique in that I’ll get out on the lake between 0500-0600 hrs and not come off the water until 2130 hrs, get home and get the boat plugged in at 2200 hrs, then wake up at 0400 hrs the next day and decide I want to go to a different lake than the day before to go walleye fishing and be on the road by 0530 hrs, so I need the high performance of the Victron chargers, not everyone needs that level of performance though.

 
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Thanks again. I think what I’ll do is get a group 24 AGM and will see how it goes. I can definitely see the charge time issue and it may be a problem to address later, but for now the turnaround time is unlikely to be a problem. If we’re out late and I want to fish early I’m more likely to go with a neighbor on his fishing boat. But, I’m definitely keeping all this info for future reference!
 
Just went and checked out the IP67
Thanks again. I think what I’ll do is get a group 24 AGM and will see how it goes. I can definitely see the charge time issue and it may be a problem to address later, but for now the turnaround time is unlikely to be a problem. If we’re out late and I want to fish early I’m more likely to go with a neighbor on his fishing boat. But, I’m definitely keeping all this info for future reference!

That sounds like a great plan! I’m sure that will serve you well!

Just went and checked out the IP67 chargers, and it appears Victron has customized the charge rates with a lot more charge rates.. if you go with these chargers you should be able to get the best of both worlds. I had communicated with Interstate Batteries a while back about charging their Group 24 AGM at 25 A and the tech told me that is fine as long as the voltage doesn’t exceed 14.4 volts, so that’s an option for you as well.
 
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