Bolt Sheared Off in Transom Plate...

[Guitarjesus]

#5 in the diagram sheared off in the transom plate. Any suggestions to get it out without screwing up the threads in the transom plate or worse, puncturing the fiberglass behind it.

 

[Dixemon]

where did it shear off? Going in or coming out? Do you have any pictures? Depending on whether there is any thing to grab hold of will determine the best method of removal.

 

[Guitarjesus]

where did it shear off? Going in or coming out? Do you have any pictures? Depending on whether there is any thing to grab hold of will determine the best method of removal.

I'll have to take the whole think apart again to get a picture. It sheared off only in the transom plate as I was tightening it, it passes through the wear rings and inner ring. Barely put any torque on it, just turned like butter.

 

[Dixemon]

So it sheared off where the threads meet the grip of the bolt? That sucks, Good news is if it sheared with very little torque than you may have an easier time getting it out. Sounds like it may be time to invest in an easy out set, or taking to a shop to have them give it a go.

 

[rgc7654]

Hey @Guitarjesus - Did you have any luck getting that M6 broken bolt extracted out of the transom plate? I'm in the same predicament - overtightened when reassembling after an impeller replacement to 30lbs like the 4 larger bolts and snapped it off. I'm almost wondering if I can run the boat without that bolt for fear of doing more damage on an extraction.

 

[sastocky]

If you have an engraving pen, use it to walk the bolt out. It works very well on metal to metal sheared bolts.

 

[Cambo]

That same bolt sheared off when I was changing the wear ring I had taken them out before on my previous boat with no issues. They use some type of white loc tite, as the bolt backs out it binds up and they are soft like butter and shear off. If it gets tight when removing you have to thread it back in then back out and repeat.

I had plans that same day to take the boat out so I grabbed a smaller sized tap that was laying around drilled it and tapped in a smaller bolt. It ended up staying in there for the rest of the season, it bothered me thinking catastrophic failure so eventually I purchased a new bolt, correct tap and drill bit, then drilled and tapped it, good as new now. Buttersoft bolts are very easy to drill and tap. I did try to remove the broken piece but it was bound up and would not come out.

I'm almost positive this was the size used to drill and tap

Amazon.com

 

[Jerlane]

Interesting that so many people have had this happen, including me. I'm also wondering how critical the bolt is. I bought a replacement, but haven't attempted to remove the broken bolt yet since I'll likely have to remove the jet pump in order to access it.

 

[Guitarjesus]

Hey @Guitarjesus - Did you have any luck getting that M6 broken bolt extracted out of the transom plate? I'm in the same predicament - overtightened when reassembling after an impeller replacement to 30lbs like the 4 larger bolts and snapped it off. I'm almost wondering if I can run the boat without that bolt for fear of doing more damage on an extraction.

I had just enough sticking out that I was able to use vice grips and turn it out. Somehow being in water didn't make that difficult.

 

[andrewssch]

Interesting that so many people have had this happen, including me. I'm also wondering how critical the bolt is. I bought a replacement, but haven't attempted to remove the broken bolt yet since I'll likely have to remove the jet pump in order to access it.

Did you end up running it without the bolt? I just sheared it off and don't know if I should fuss with replacing it or if I can run it without.

 

[andrewssch]

Hey @Guitarjesus - Did you have any luck getting that M6 broken bolt extracted out of the transom plate? I'm in the same predicament - overtightened when reassembling after an impeller replacement to 30lbs like the 4 larger bolts and snapped it off. I'm almost wondering if I can run the boat without that bolt for fear of doing more damage on an extraction.

Did you try running it without? Any issues?

 

[Jerlane]

Did you end up running it without the bolt? I just sheared it off and don't know if I should fuss with replacing it or if I can run it without.

I haven't done anything with it yet and to my knowledge, haven't had any problems.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

In my service manual it calls for Loctite 572 to be applied to the threads before assembly. I clean the threads in the transom plate and the bolts with a tap and die, and just put on a thin amount of 572 before assembly and have had excellent results with this product.

I think where problems could occur is if the threads are not cleaned prior to assembly and the previously applied product is not removed first. A bolt that breaks upon assembly is or was over torqued, or is trying to be threaded into a place where there is crap in the threads and causes the bolt to bind and lock up. A bolt that breaks upon disassembly was either over torqued on assembly or is locked up due to electrolysis creating a bond between the female threads and the male threads.

Loctite 572 is expensive, that’s relative really as not using it or an equivalent will cause the boots to not come out when you want them to, but it appears there is an alternative, Permatex 592, it is a low yield thread locker and sealant that “lubricates threads for easy assembly and disassembly”

Thread 'Loctite 572 substitute'

Jul 16, 2020

I pulled the port side jet pump to remove some fishing line and the manual is calling for loctite 572 thread sealant. Permatex 592 seems to be a suitable replacement and is readily available and inexpensive. Has anyone here looked at this as an alternative?

• Floridaman79
• Replies: 34
• Forum: General Discussion

I boat in FRESH WATER with high mineral content, I’ve gone for one year whilst testing impellers without anything on the bolts, BUT, the threads were starting to get crusty. I would not recommend assembling the pumps without having either the loctite or permatex thread sealant product on the threads. Take the time to clean up the threads with a tap and die and apply a thin amount of thread sealant on the bolts before assembly, and by thin I mean apply the sealant to the clean threads and using your thumb and fore finger squeegee the product down into the threads whilst turning the bolt, then use a rag to wipe off the excess sealant before assembly, this will help to keep it from piling up at the thread face. Doing this will insure that the parts assemble properly and will come apart after being in the water, fresh or salt, after years of use.