Broken Driveshaft

[Inthrustwetrust]

Looks a lot like this right? 2021 Yamaha 275SD. Yamaha not covering the DESTROYED ENGINE. 20k. How do we get these in front of Yamaha.

Looks exactly like mine. I had to do a double take, I thought those were my photos for a minute. I would fight Yamaha. That’s at least 4 instances on here of the same exact break/problem. Dealer hasn’t looked at mine yet, luckily I think my motor is fine, but I will be fighting tooth and nail for them to cover the repair costs of the shaft/any other damage. My opinion, it’s some sort of manufacture or design flaw, and they should be fully liable for damages.

My boat is pretty well taken care of. 70 hours, I do a thorough wash of the entire boat, including the pumps, with Salt Away after every use, I am not happy so far with some of the issues I’ve had with the boat.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

over torqueing the impeller when installing it on the drive shaft

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

over torqueing the impeller when installing it on the drive shaft

Would have been the factory then, I haven’t touched the pumps until I had the failure.

How freely should the bearing at the aft of the pump spin? The end of the shaft is still in there about flush with the top of the bearing, if I apply some pressure with my thumb where the shaft broke I can spin it, but it’s not super free spinning like a skate board wheel, resistance feels like more a trailer wheel bearing that’s in need of being repacked.

My other thought is that it’s a wear ring issue, my side that failed has significantly more rust on the wear ring and impeller than my good side, that pretty much has none.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Would have been the factory then, I haven’t touched the pumps until I had the failure.

How freely should the bearing at the aft of the pump spin? The end of the shaft is still in there about flush with the top of the bearing, if I apply some pressure with my thumb where the shaft broke I can spin it, but it’s not super free spinning like a skate board wheel, resistance feels like more a trailer wheel bearing that’s in need of being repacked.

My other thought is that it’s a wear ring issue, my side that failed has significantly more rust on the wear ring and impeller than my good side, that pretty much has none.

You mean the front bearing in the pump housing? There’s 2 bearings aft of the impeller separated by a spacer. You shouldn’t be able to access the one in the front it’s protected by oil seals. The rear one is visible if you take the cone off

 

[PatrickKolby]

I already have 65 hours on ours

 

[RobbieO]

I already have 65 hours on ours

Wow...when did you take delivery? I got mine in January...5 hrs...lol

 

[PatrickKolby]

Delivered October 10th 2020

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Update for the masses, the boat got looked at by the dealer today. The employee at the service desk looked like he saw a ghost when he looked at the paperwork for why the boat was being brought in. He said he had never seen anything like it before. They confirmed a manufacturing defect in the metal of the shaft. They have to submit paperwork to Yamaha because there is no way to remove the piece of shaft stuck in the bearing in the pump housing. It sheared flush at the bearing, so they would have to weld something to the remaining piece of shaft likely damaging or destroying the entire pump housing. With that said, not my fault and will be covered under warranty.

The potentially bad news, they have most the parts they need for the fix, I am not 100% positive on what, be he said new impeller, wear ring, pump housing etc. They don’t have the drive shaft, but there are 3 in stock in the US. So the really bad news, if they don’t have parts and can’t find anything, Yamaha is showing most parts back ordered to at least Sept of 2021.

Don’t break your boats this spring or summer, likely will take you out for the season. Hope the boating gods are with y’all this season. I am pretty disappointed, I’m sure Yamaha does not make the shaft and this was a issue with a supplier, I am just hoping they can make some magic happen and get me back on the water in a couple weeks.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Glad they also agree that the part had a flaw and they will fix it under warranty.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Update for the masses, the boat got looked at by the dealer today. The employee at the service desk looked like he saw a ghost when he looked at the paperwork for why the boat was being brought in. He said he had never seen anything like it before. They confirmed a manufacturing defect in the metal of the shaft. They have to submit paperwork to Yamaha because there is no way to remove the piece of shaft stuck in the bearing in the pump housing. It sheared flush at the bearing, so they would have to weld something to the remaining piece of shaft likely damaging or destroying the entire pump housing. With that said, not my fault and will be covered under warranty.

The potentially bad news, they have most the parts they need for the fix, I am not 100% positive on what, be he said new impeller, wear ring, pump housing etc. They don’t have the drive shaft, but there are 3 in stock in the US. So the really bad news, if they don’t have parts and can’t find anything, Yamaha is showing most parts back ordered to at least Sept of 2021.

Don’t break your boats this spring or summer, likely will take you out for the season. Hope the boating gods are with y’all this season. I am pretty disappointed, I’m sure Yamaha does not make the shaft and this was a issue with a supplier, I am just hoping they can make some magic happen and get me back on the water in a couple weeks.

SBT sells shafts....might be a better chance than risking another one defecting.

Also, NEVER believe what the parts guys at a dealership tell you. Many times you can get stuff from boats.net or partzilla.com faster than the dealer can get it. Have them tell you what they can source quickly, then try and find the rest yourself and get reimbursed.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Update for the masses, the boat got looked at by the dealer today. The employee at the service desk looked like he saw a ghost when he looked at the paperwork for why the boat was being brought in. He said he had never seen anything like it before. They confirmed a manufacturing defect in the metal of the shaft. They have to submit paperwork to Yamaha because there is no way to remove the piece of shaft stuck in the bearing in the pump housing. It sheared flush at the bearing, so they would have to weld something to the remaining piece of shaft likely damaging or destroying the entire pump housing. With that said, not my fault and will be covered under warranty.

The potentially bad news, they have most the parts they need for the fix, I am not 100% positive on what, be he said new impeller, wear ring, pump housing etc. They don’t have the drive shaft, but there are 3 in stock in the US. So the really bad news, if they don’t have parts and can’t find anything, Yamaha is showing most parts back ordered to at least Sept of 2021.

Don’t break your boats this spring or summer, likely will take you out for the season. Hope the boating gods are with y’all this season. I am pretty disappointed, I’m sure Yamaha does not make the shaft and this was a issue with a supplier, I am just hoping they can make some magic happen and get me back on the water in a couple weeks.

Have they actually acknowledged that it is a manufacturing defect in the shaft itself and not being caused by something else? (misalignment, torque issue, etc.) If you can get the parts building a pump from scratch only takes a few hours.

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Have they actually acknowledged that it is a manufacturing defect in the shaft itself and not being caused by something else? (misalignment, torque issue, etc.) If you can get the parts building a pump from scratch only takes a few hours.

I asked some questions, I didn’t get super in depth but they said they couldn’t find anything wrong and they could see what they think we’re a manufacturer defect. Far as parts, we will see what they get back to me with. Everything is under warranty, so I’m not touching a thing or ordering non OEM parts, if it is a bigger issue I don’t want to be blamed for it if another shaft snaps. (Reference the poster that had this same issue on his 27ft and ended up having his motor blow up after a non dealer repair) if they come back with Sept is the best they can do I will explore some alternate routes.

 

[Beachbummer]

They have to submit paperwork to Yamaha because there is no way to remove the piece of shaft stuck in the bearing in the pump housing. It sheared flush at the bearing, so they would have to weld something to the remaining piece of shaft likely damaging or destroying the entire pump housing. With that said, not my fault and will be covered under warranty.

That's odd, the shaft is pressed in, and comes out with a push from a hydraulic press. Should not be a problem to take the shaft out. The bearings cannot be reused and should be replaced.

 

[Cambo]

How freely should the bearing at the aft of the pump spin? The end of the shaft is still in there about flush with the top of the bearing, if I apply some pressure with my thumb where the shaft broke I can spin it, but it’s not super free spinning like a skate board wheel, resistance feels like more a trailer wheel bearing that’s in need of being repacked.

My other thought is that it’s a wear ring issue, my side that failed has significantly more rust on the wear ring and impeller than my good side, that pretty much has none.

The bearing should not feel like a skateboard wheel I’m in the process of changing a wear ring. I started the boat in the drive way heard a high pitch type of metallic sound just from one motor pulled the pump and the wear ring was rubbing the impeller . If I hold the shaft and spin the pump housing assembly it will only make two rotations so it defiantly does not spin very freely and I have pulled other pumps and they felt similar. The cone was pulled and the bearing is in good shape the epnoch grease did settle away from the bearing so I dabbed it out and coated the bearing and will add a little more. The previous 2005 boat never had a wear ring issue and with all the forum posts I have never seen that much rust on a wear ring ,that is concerning they are also on back order. Do you dry start your boat before you launch ? maybe the defect in the shaft allowed the impeller to wobble and rub until it finally sheared off.

That's odd, the shaft is pressed in, and comes out with a push from a hydraulic press. Should not be a problem to take the shaft out. The bearings cannot be reused and should be replaced.

I agree with @Beachbummer its well documented when the bearing fails it gets pressed out typical dealer response that they no less than what you can learn on the forum. hopefully the mechanics are more knowledgeable and your parts can be sourced quickly

 

[Beachbummer]

I had a thought and wanted to confirm my understanding. I think i have it right.

The shaft comes out pushed by the cone side. Since the impeller is on the way, can't be removed because you have nothing to hold it, I would leave the impeller longer in place and use some lumber or spacers at the bottom to allow the impeller to clear the press as the shaft moved down as it's pressed. In essence push the shaft down through the bearings.

Totally doable I would think. Since they will be doing the work no reason to stand in their way unless they are holding for parts. With the shaft and bearings alone it could be done, if they want to use a new pump vane, impeller and wear ring they pay for, that's good if they can get them quick.

Best of luck! If they tell you they will use all new, tell them you would like to keep the old assembly and you can send it to me, I can disassemble it on my press and send you all the parts. I doubt they would let you, but no harm in asking.

The picture is what it looks like inside the pump. That nut is under the cone. It cones off and then the shaft is pushed down and slides off.

 

[BGN123]

FWIW my 2021 275SD had snapped driveshaft and destroyed engine. Yamaha told me it is my responsibility because they claimed there was a ding in the impeller (which neither myself or the mechanic could see) which meant I must have ingested something. I accepted that explanation and am calling around trying to find parts and dealers who can help given everything back ordered. The first other repair shop I called said they just had a 2020 275SD with same thing due to misalignment of driveshaft. What Is going on here?

 

[RobbieO]

I had a thought and wanted to confirm my understanding. I think i have it right.

The shaft comes out pushed by the cone side. Since the impeller is on the way, can't be removed because you have nothing to hold it, I would leave the impeller longer in place and use some lumber or spacers at the bottom to allow the impeller to clear the press as the shaft moved down as it's pressed. In essence push the shaft down through the bearings.

Totally doable I would think. Since they will be doing the work no reason to stand in their way unless they are holding for parts. With the shaft and bearings alone it could be done, if they want to use a new pump vane, impeller and wear ring they pay for, that's good if they can get them quick.

Best of luck! If they tell you they will use all new, tell them you would like to keep the old assembly and you can send it to me, I can disassemble it on my press and send you all the parts. I doubt they would let you, but no harm in asking.
View attachment 149289
The picture is what it looks like inside the pump. That nut is under the cone. It cones off and then the shaft is pushed down and slides off.

So when you pull the cone off to lube the bearing, can you feed grease down to the inner bearing? If not, how does that get lubed/maintained?

 

[Beachbummer]

Unless you pour some gear oil in there, I don't see how you lubricate the other end. It's more of an inspection point. If you put a little gear oil in there it mixes with the grease and it seems to me to do a much better job in lubricating both front and rear.

 

[RobbieO]

Unless you pour some gear oil in there, I don't see how you lubricate the other end. It's more of an inspection point. If you put a little gear oil in there it mixes with the grease and it seems to me to do a much better job in lubricating both front and rear.

I'm curious to see what the service manual says about that bearing. It might be worth it to press the shaft out every year and lube that sucker. Maybe they pack that whole cavity so it continually gets lubed. surprised there is not a grease fitting somewhere.

 

[Ronnie]

I'm curious to see what the service manual says about that bearing. It might be worth it to press the shaft out every year and lube that sucker. Maybe they pack that whole cavity so it continually gets lubed. surprised there is not a grease fitting somewhere.

The cone at the end of the shaft is filled with grease. To lubricate the intermediate bearing at the other end of the shaft you have to use the zirk fitting in the engine compartment on the the engine shaft coupler housing. See parts 4 and 11 in the attached screenshot.