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Engine on wire for dvsr bypass

Trucon01

Well-Known Member
Messages
47
Reaction score
59
Points
57
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
255XD
Boat Length
25
Hi all,. I've gone through a few threads on here and it appears these port and starboard engine on wires are in different locations...

I have a 2022 255xd and believe I found the wire, since it's the only purple wire. I looked along 1-2 feet of the wire and cannot find any labels like other pictures show (P ENG ON)... could anyone help verify this for me??

First pic is a long view for location area. Second is zoomed in on purple wire I suspect to be the correct wire.

Thanks!!
 

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Ok. That purple wire is not it. When engines are off, but ignition is on, it produces 12 volts.

Does anyone have a newer boat that has performed this and can tell me where the engine on wire is?
 
This is a long shot, but thought it might be worth throwing out there. On my 2012, on the starboard side, inside the engine compartment is a removable panel. Behind that panel are wire harnesses along with some extra aux cables. Some of those wires at that location are labeled. Maybe worth a shot. Who knows what you’ll find.
 
That makes too much sense.
 
Ok. That purple wire is not it. When engines are off, but ignition is on, it produces 12 volts.

Does anyone have a newer boat that has performed this and can tell me where the engine on wire is?

If you get a shop manual for your boat there should be a very extensive single line wiring diagram in the back that pulls out. You should be able to find the wire and it’s color(s) in that diagram.
 
Hey Yammi,

I'm not doing this for storage mode charging, I'm doing this because I have lifepo4 start and house batteries and the voltages on those are higher than lead acid, thus when the engine is on, I want the batteries to charge independently from the stator.

Currently, I have just cut the red wire and left it, so only the start battery has been charging and no current goes to the house to charge it. It's a 300ah, so I wasn't concerned, but I'd like to finish up this project so I don't have loose wires.

I could use the ignition wire and put in a manual switch and flip it every time, but reading other posts, there is a wire that gets 12v ONLY when the engine is cranking and on. That's the wire I want to tap into so I never have to remember to switch this in and off.

Make sense?
 
Hey Yammi,

I'm not doing this for storage mode charging, I'm doing this because I have lifepo4 start and house batteries and the voltages on those are higher than lead acid, thus when the engine is on, I want the batteries to charge independently from the stator.

Currently, I have just cut the red wire and left it, so only the start battery has been charging and no current goes to the house to charge it. It's a 300ah, so I wasn't concerned, but I'd like to finish up this project so I don't have loose wires.

I could use the ignition wire and put in a manual switch and flip it every time, but reading other posts, there is a wire that gets 12v ONLY when the engine is cranking and on. That's the wire I want to tap into so I never have to remember to switch this in and off.

Make sense?

Totally makes sense to me since I have basically the same set up, but I switch mine manually. Have i forgot to turn it off? Yep but only twice that I can think of. My manual DVSR switch gets its power from the house bank and through an accessory switch. I have thought of tying it to an ignition hot but have not done so yet. One reason I haven’t done so is that I want to leave the connext screen on sometimes and to do that one of the keys has to be on.

It would be great if I could find a “run” hot so that there would only be power to the DVSR when the engines were on.
 
So here is a question and what I did....instead of snipping wires and putting in a switch, I wired the DVSR + to the other side of the switchs, So Only time DVSR kicks on is when batteries are on, and when both batteries are off, DVSR does not work and my dual bank noco charger works normal.

Is there a downside? Only one I can see is if you leave house battery on because you want bilge on or so other kind of accessory...but when my boat isnt being used, batteries are off.
 
So here is a question and what I did....instead of snipping wires and putting in a switch, I wired the DVSR + to the other side of the switchs, So Only time DVSR kicks on is when batteries are on, and when both batteries are off, DVSR does not work and my dual bank noco charger works normal.

Is there a downside? Only one I can see is if you leave house battery on because you want bilge on or so other kind of accessory...but when my boat isnt being used, batteries are off.

No downside for you as long as you are using lead acid batteries. The OP was doing this because he has a LiFePO4 house battery, and the resting voltage of a LiFePO4 battery is 13.6 which is higher than the dvsr’s ON voltage of 13.2. The OP has a lead acid start battery. So, unless the DVSR is disabled when the engines are off the LiFePO4 battery will charge the start battery and it’s lower resting voltage, and the start / house batteries won’t be isolated until the house battery is almost depleted when the voltage drops below the dvsr’s OFF voltage of 12.7.
 
No downside for you as long as you are using lead acid batteries. The OP was doing this because he has a LiFePO4 house battery, and the resting voltage of a LiFePO4 battery is 13.6 which is higher than the dvsr’s ON voltage of 13.2. The OP has a lead acid start battery. So, unless the DVSR is disabled when the engines are off the LiFePO4 battery will charge the start battery and it’s lower resting voltage, and the start / house batteries won’t be isolated until the house battery is almost depleted when the voltage drops below the dvsr’s OFF voltage of 12.7.
Almost true :). Both my start and house battery are lifepo4. I think I'm just going to wire a switch at the helm and after engines are on, switch the dvsr on. Then when I'm anchored and need the radio, switch it off.
 
Ah, I see that now that I reviewed your post #7 above.

When I added my accessory switches I got the covers that looked how I wanted them, but, what I discovered was that the back light was not bright enough in the day time to catch my attention so I changed out the covers that were brighter.

Originals

957EB98C-263A-434F-8CCF-E5D3B1227742.jpeg

Replacements

CF833915-DA3A-40D9-8F03-C2085B3AEBA6.jpeg

I got my switches and ckt breakers from New Wire Marine.

I had also thought about wiring in a relay, normally closed held open when the ignition is on, that would go to an alarm buzzer that would get its power from the battery // switch, so that if the battery // (parallel) switch is on and the ignition is off the alarm will sound.
 
A clarification question....is the dvsr omini directional meaning if house batteries are at the charged voltage, it will open the circuit to the start battery? Or does it only open when the start battery gets to a set voltage?
 
It looks at the total voltage to decide whether to close or open the switch. If the switch is open and voltage climbs to 13.2 and the dvsr closes the switch // the batteries. It doesn’t matter which battery gets to 13.2 volts but since the alternators are connected to the start battery it will reach 13.2 before the house. This is by design so the start battery charges first.

When the switch is closed and the voltage drops to 12.7 the dvsr opens the switch breaking // between the batteries
 
1 more question, if I decide to maybe put in the switch on the loop line, what size fuse do you use?
 
It doesn’t specify in the drawing.

IMG_5712.jpeg

on my set up it is a 5A circuit breaker. The red wire on the dvsr is like 20 gauge. So the breaker I have is more to protect the line to the dvsr.

I’ll have to look for the one cut sheet and see if there is more info.
 

I'm suspecting 5A will suffice due to wire size.

I think I'm actually going to do the clip wire way now too. After thinking about it, moving both DVSR +'s to load side of switches has a little prob too. While afloat with only house battery on at full charge, it may activate dvsr to connect, which at that point will be connected to load side of start, and energize start side (enabling you to possibly start boat without start switch on and using power on start side). This may not really be a prob as resting state of lead flooded is 12.6v.

Unlesssss..... DVSR only works it it senses power on both side, in which case the above would not be a prob, and in that case, you would only have to move start dvsr wire to load side.
 
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I don’t know if that would happen but I do know as soon as the voltage drops to 12.7 the switch opens. One of the things about the DVSR is that it isolates the house loads ( house battery) when ever the starter is engaged because the switch opens that fast.
 
Cleaned up wiring today. Wired DVSR as per the diagram above, cutting loop and just routing it to load side terminal of start switch with no fuse. Put in a bus bar for all Negative terminals and routed 1 wire to the batteries, in which all 3 negatives are connected in parallel . 2 house battery positives are parallel. Start switch positive load side to battery. All HOUSE battery side positive lines put on a bus bar to consolidate and tidy up lines.
 
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