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Generator Inverter

Wrecked Rooster

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Anyone running a small gas generator inverter on their boat? To keep house batteries topped off for long sits. Thinking something quiet and small. I saw where someone had a thread for a tractor supply online only deal but it won’t pull up for me.

Could use the generator off the boat too as a bonus.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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FWIW,

I wouldn’t buy any generator except a Honda. Super quiet and super reliable.

Having said that, generator on a boat is going to present some adding concerns, gasoline generators produce CO. You can put it on the swim step I suppose to avoid the CO but they also have hot exhaust. If you have lead acid batteries and are charging them they will produce hydrogen gas in the compartments where they are situated.

IMHO if you want to have long lasting power out of your batteries, I’d have a on board smart battery charger like the NOCO or MinnKota precision series that stays plugged in when the boat is not in use. The other option is to go with LiFePO4 house batteries such as the Battle Born 100ah or the Relion 100ah / aka tracker battery at Cabela’s or Bass Pro shops. I know they are expensive, but even over the short term they cost less per kWh than lead acid batteries do, and over the long run they are significantly less per kWh than lead acid batteries.

I’ve recently wrapped up a pretty intensive LiFePO4 battery research project and at the end of the day the Battler Born 100ah internally heated batteries are the only ones that suit my needs. LiFePO4 batteries don’t like being charged below 32* and the battle born batteries have an internal heating model which will work well for me during the shoulder seasons when it gets pretty cold at night. Pretty sure the bms in the battle born will not allow any of their batteries to charge if they are too cold. The ReLion 100ah LT batteries also have internal heaters but they cannot be tied in series, only parallel and that does not meet my needs, and their BMS will allow the batteries to charge when they are too cold. All that being said, if you are not using and or charging the batteries when it is that cold out then it probably won’t matter to you.

Having said that, if you were to replace, I‘m assuming single group 27 90ah (roughly 40ah useable) group 27 house battery, with one or two group 31 100 ah (roughly 80-90ah useable per battery) LiFePO4 batteries you would probably have more than enough power for any outing, without the noise, complexity, or fumes of a generator. Two group 31 100ah LiFePO4 batteries weigh about the same as one group 27 90ah lead acid battery and would have roughly 400% more KWh’s than the single group 27 lead acid battery, and they don’t have the acid or hydrogen vapors that lead acid batteries do. Even just replacing your single group 27 lead acid battery with one group 31 LiFePO4 would increase your KWh‘s by over 200%.

I know that is not exactly what you asked for but hope that helps!
 

Bruce

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Wrecked Rooster

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FWIW,

I wouldn’t buy any generator except a Honda. Super quiet and super reliable.

Having said that, generator on a boat is going to present some adding concerns, gasoline generators produce CO. You can put it on the swim step I suppose to avoid the CO but they also have hot exhaust. If you have lead acid batteries and are charging them they will produce hydrogen gas in the compartments where they are situated.

IMHO if you want to have long lasting power out of your batteries, I’d have a on board smart battery charger like the NOCO or MinnKota precision series that stays plugged in when the boat is not in use. The other option is to go with LiFePO4 house batteries such as the Battle Born 100ah or the Relion 100ah / aka tracker battery at Cabela’s or Bass Pro shops. I know they are expensive, but even over the short term they cost less per kWh than lead acid batteries do, and over the long run they are significantly less per kWh than lead acid batteries.

I’ve recently wrapped up a pretty intensive LiFePO4 battery research project and at the end of the day the Battler Born 100ah internally heated batteries are the only ones that suit my needs. LiFePO4 batteries don’t like being charged below 32* and the battle born batteries have an internal heating model which will work well for me during the shoulder seasons when it gets pretty cold at night. Pretty sure the bms in the battle born will not allow any of their batteries to charge if they are too cold. The ReLion 100ah LT batteries also have internal heaters but they cannot be tied in series, only parallel and that does not meet my needs, and their BMS will allow the batteries to charge when they are too cold. All that being said, if you are not using and or charging the batteries when it is that cold out then it probably won’t matter to you.

Having said that, if you were to replace, I‘m assuming single group 27 90ah (roughly 40ah useable) group 27 house battery, with one or two group 31 100 ah (roughly 80-90ah useable per battery) LiFePO4 batteries you would probably have more than enough power for any outing, without the noise, complexity, or fumes of a generator. Two group 31 100ah LiFePO4 batteries weigh about the same as one group 27 90ah lead acid battery and would have roughly 400% more KWh’s than the single group 27 lead acid battery, and they don’t have the acid or hydrogen vapors that lead acid batteries do. Even just replacing your single group 27 lead acid battery with one group 31 LiFePO4 would increase your KWh‘s by over 200%.

I know that is not exactly what you asked for but hope that helps!

Lot of info and I do appreciate the in-depth knowledge. I actually have a 100 ah LiFePO4 battery I’m not using anything for. Considered using it but didn’t know about mixing battery chemistry. With the starter battery being lead acid.

I have a blue sea systems dual battery switch with the ACR as well. I’ll have to see if that’s compatible with the lithium battery. This would all be to run 2 tower speakers at 300w rms when anchored off. Not sure what the amp draw on that would be but I’m guessing in the 40-50 Ah range which wouldn’t allow too much time on a house battery.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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Lot of info and I do appreciate the in-depth knowledge. I actually have a 100 ah LiFePO4 battery I’m not using anything for. Considered using it but didn’t know about mixing battery chemistry. With the starter battery being lead acid.

I have a blue sea systems dual battery switch with the ACR as well. I’ll have to see if that’s compatible with the lithium battery. This would all be to run 2 tower speakers at 300w rms when anchored off. Not sure what the amp draw on that would be but I’m guessing in the 40-50 Ah range which wouldn’t allow too much time on a house battery.

Right on….

When I talked with ReLion‘s tech staff I asked the question of whether or not I could have the lead acid start battery on the DVSR side (OEM BEP marine switch my boat came with, start battery charges first then the DVSR closes paralleling the start and house), with the house battery being LiFePO4 and they said no problem. Your blue sea VSR / ACR probably acts much like the BEP DVSR. The BEP DVSR closes when the starter battery reaches 13.2VDC paralleling, and opens at 12.7VDC breaking parallel. This is the set up I’m thinking of going with to power my fish finder, GPS, live well, OEM sound system, lighting etc..

As I’ve written about elsewhere on this site the alternators on our boats are PMG or Permanent Magnet Generators and are always at full output, the rectifier turns the AC voltage to DC and the regulator shunts the unwanted generated DC energy to ground, that’s why the reg / rectifiers are always warm to the touch. The LiFePO4 battery will soak up that energy like a sponge, so should charge faster than a lead acid house battery.

While your tower speakers are 300 watts rms, their draw is not constant, therefore the total watt hours they draw may be significantly less than what you may think. At 300 watts continuous, @ 12.8VDC=23.44 (300/12.8=23.44) amps, so if you are pushing a wall of sound (Ted Nugent -Great White Buffalo) then it might get close to 20Ah per hour
 

FSH 210 Sport

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RobbieO

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FSH 210 Sport

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Here are two Honda generators that would work nicely for the OP‘s wants. Both are inverter style generators providing a clean sine wave for sensitive electronics like computers, LED TV’s, and smart devices.

The first is a 1000W peak, 900W continuous, super quiet light weight at 29 pounds, really small, and built in CO cut off. This one would be more than adequate to run a battery charger, and even a blender. I was looking at this one before and would be the one I would get to charge the 5 batteries I have on board.


The second is a 2200W peak, 1800W continuous, quiet and relatively light at 47 pounds and has the built in CO cut off, and could double as a home back up Gen with the ability to run a refrigerator.
 

marcham

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Anyone running a small gas generator inverter on their boat? To keep house batteries topped off for long sits. Thinking something quiet and small. I saw where someone had a thread for a tractor supply online only deal but it won’t pull up for me.

Could use the generator off the boat too as a bonus.
A few gas free options if you are interested:

Portable charger with power bank



Solar panel. 20w would maintain, 50w would charge.

Or take the batteries home during storage season.
 

Wrecked Rooster

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Right on….

When I talked with ReLion‘s tech staff I asked the question of whether or not I could have the lead acid start battery on the DVSR side (OEM BEP marine switch my boat came with, start battery charges first then the DVSR closes paralleling the start and house), with the house battery being LiFePO4 and they said no problem. Your blue sea VSR / ACR probably acts much like the BEP DVSR. The BEP DVSR closes when the starter battery reaches 13.2VDC paralleling, and opens at 12.7VDC breaking parallel. This is the set up I’m thinking of going with to power my fish finder, GPS, live well, OEM sound system, lighting etc..

As I’ve written about elsewhere on this site the alternators on our boats are PMG or Permanent Magnet Generators and are always at full output, the rectifier turns the AC voltage to DC and the regulator shunts the unwanted generated DC energy to ground, that’s why the reg / rectifiers are always warm to the touch. The LiFePO4 battery will soak up that energy like a sponge, so should charge faster than a lead acid house battery.

While your tower speakers are 300 watts rms, their draw is not constant, therefore the total watt hours they draw may be significantly less than what you may think. At 300 watts continuous, @ 12.8VDC=23.44 (300/12.8=23.44) amps, so if you are pushing a wall of sound (Ted Nugent -Great White Buffalo) then it might get close to 20Ah per hour
Thanks! I plan on calling blue sea tomorrow to see what they say on the ACR and lithium as the secondary. If it’s cool, I might just throw that in there. I have it in a pelican box on wheels for campsite power needs. But it’s a little overkill for those needs.

On the speakers, they are 300 watts rms per speaker. Kicker 9” horns. I haven’t bought them yet. What I plan on getting, but would want to sort out power before I did.
 

Wrecked Rooster

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Thanks for the links! My boat comes home with me after every lake trip. Then goes on shore power with a dual bank 5amp noco charger. I’m really just worried about the battery lasting while anchored off for hours listening to music.
 

84rzv500r

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I use batteries, LiFePO4, one 60Ah Dakota for a start battery and 2x AmpereTime 100Ah in parallel for the house side... im running 600 peak Watts audio and no issues... when I need real sound on the ocean I use a 3Kw Yamaha Inverter Genset lashed between my bow seats to power 3x 1500W Behringer B615D's and 2x Behringer 3000W B1500XP Subs... I put a stainless steel stack on the exhaust and dont really use the boat except for the swim platform
 

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In that case... a 100 Ah lifepo4, with its own ac charger might make more sense. Keep it seperate from the starter battery.
 
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