Idle speed rattle

[gkallevig]

I’ve never seen any reports of exhaust leaks on these boats, and you’d smell it in the engine bay if it were leaking in there.

Withe engine off and locked out, can you reach up into the intake and see how much play there is in the shaft ? You could get someone to help you so you can look at the coupler in the engine bay to see if there is any play there as well.

Does your engine run smooth? If it is missing or running rough at idle you could be hearing the lash between the impeller shaft and the short shaft that goes through the intermediate bearing. I know you checked it, but based on what I heard from your vid and what I’m trying to piece together in my head it sounds like the rubber dampener between the engine and the drive shaft that goes through the intermediate bearing is bad since it smooths out when you raise the idle.. speaking of idle, what rpm does the motor idle at?

I'll reach up into the grate and check play tomorrow. Previously I just grabbed the shaft between the motor and mid bearing, doing this from inside the engine bay.
Engine seems smooth to me, other than this rattle. I get 7600 rpm WOT. Maybe it's missing at idle? Poor plugs with low voltage from the stator causing a miss? I can't recall idle rpm, but I want to guess it's around 1500, I'll check that as well tomorrow.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I'll reach up into the grate and check play tomorrow. Previously I just grabbed the shaft between the motor and mid bearing, doing this from inside the engine bay.
Engine seems smooth to me, other than this rattle. I get 7600 rpm WOT. Maybe it's missing at idle? Poor plugs with low voltage from the stator causing a miss? I can't recall idle rpm, but I want to guess it's around 1500, I'll check that as well tomorrow.

If you don’t know the age of the plugs I’d go ahead and throw a new set of plugs in it since It’s got roughly 170 hours on it. You have the 1.8 L engine in yours, the TR-1’s that are in mine are reportedly sensitive to plugs. Buy a set of plugs and be sure you gap them properly before installing them. Check the coil pack connections for any corrosion when you remove them as well. It’s worth a shot as plugs are not that expensive. What is the change interval in the manual?

Your mind is on the right track with the low voltage from the stator… as that voltage increases some with rpm. So, if the gap on the plugs is excessive it might be struggling to jump the gap.. who knows. But might as well cross things off the list.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Any progress?

 

[gkallevig]

Any progress?

i changed plugs, went with denso iridium's, and it didn't help. I think it actually backfired one time lol. The NGK's i pulled out looked perfect, denso's definitely put out more of a spark though. My current guess is maybe the impeller is slightly out of balance due to some buildup on it, maybe at idle speed it rocks a bit. Idk, i'm just going to run it as is for now. Too many other things taking priority over this right now.

 

[dlkhmk]

Sounds like the impeller is rubbing your wear ring. I have the same noise and will be replacing my wear ring housing this weekend. I'll update if it fixes the problem.

 

[gkallevig]

Sounds like the impeller is rubbing your wear ring. I have the same noise and will be replacing my wear ring housing this weekend. I'll update if it fixes the problem.

Please do update me. I didn't see any ribbing on my wear ring when I took it apart, but idk what else to do to fix the issue anymore.

 

[highanddryinco]

Lot's of excellent advice but at the risk of being the nay sayer...relax and run it. My 2016 has also done what sounds exactly the same as you're describing since brand new. I was all worried about it as well. You've got nothing loose, you've checked your bearing grease, you're not seeing the impeller rub on the wear ring. Vroom, vroom.

 

[gkallevig]

Lot's of excellent advice but at the risk of being the nay sayer...relax and run it. My 2016 has also done what sounds exactly the same as you're describing since brand new. I was all worried about it as well. You've got nothing loose, you've checked your bearing grease, you're not seeing the impeller rub on the wear ring. Vroom, vroom.

I'm not so much worried, just annoyed. If there's something I can do to get rid of the noise I'll do it.... So you're not wrong, I'm just picky.

 

[highanddryinco]

If you do find a solution, please do post. FWIW. I like to do most of my slow maneuvering with the cruise bumped up +1 or +2 and take advantage of the smooth F-N-R thrust bucket as opposed to a clunking gearcase. Takes the rattle away as well.
They're good boats and you'll have a ton of fun with it. We have for sure.

 

[dlkhmk]

I ordered and changed out the wear ring today and the rattle noise is gone. Purrs like a kitten on the hose. I will take it out on the lake tomorrow and do a final report.

I used a combination of the following YouTube videos and the service manual to get through the wear ring replacement and the cone bearing inspection and regrease.

300 hrs on the motor and this is the first time I did the cone bearing inspection. I found a few drops of water in the cone and pulled out 2 tablespoons of old yellow grease and refilled the cone with the same amount of new Yamaha EPNOC grease.

Bearings look new and are smooth so I guess the few drops of water didn't cause any damage.

Part # 6CR-R1312-00-00 ordered from PartsVu $113.87 delivered (2016 FSH 190)

Hope it helps!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I ordered and changed out the wear ring today and the rattle noise is gone. Purrs like a kitten on the hose. I will take it out on the lake tomorrow and do a final report.

I used a combination of the following YouTube videos and the service manual to get through the wear ring replacement and the cone bearing inspection and regrease.

300 hrs on the motor and this is the first time I did the cone bearing inspection. I found a few drops of water in the cone and pulled out 2 tablespoons of old yellow grease and refilled the cone with the same amount of new Yamaha EPNOC grease.

Bearings look new and are smooth so I guess the few drops of water didn't cause any damage.

Part # 6CR-R1312-00-00 ordered from PartsVu $113.87 delivered (2016 FSH 190)

Hope it helps!

Thanks for posting the vids!

I’m down with most everything Jeff does with the exception of not putting anaerobic sealant on the mating flanges and using the red grease on the shaft end. If sealant was not necessary the factory would not put it on, and the shaft end is supposed to have molybendum disulfide grease on the splines. I’m going to use Loctite 572 on the threads as well to keep them from seizing / corroding.

I hope your day on the lake is highly successful!!!!

 

[dlkhmk]

I followed the service manual exactly with using EPNOC, moly on the splines, torque specs, and loctite on threads. The only thing I didn't do was use the gasket sealant. I've had the pump off before and this time all the way to the impeller housing and I saw very little if any evidence of sealant from the factory??? But then again Yamaha isn't known for their quality control.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I followed the service manual exactly with using EPNOC, moly on the splines, torque specs, and loctite on threads. The only thing I didn't do was use the gasket sealant. I've had the pump off before and this time all the way to the impeller housing and I saw very little if any evidence of sealant from the factory??? But then again Yamaha isn't known for their quality control.

Right on….. how was the lake?? All quiet on the FSH front?

 

[dlkhmk]

All quiet, no more metal clank rattle at idle.

Did have a check engine alarm when I first hit the lake??? Checked everything over and all looks good and is running great. Alarm went away after 10 minutes and a few restarts.

Only thing I can think of is when I ran it without the pump attached it thru some sort of code???

3 hours on the lake and no more alarm and no more clank.

 

[gkallevig]

All quiet, no more metal clank rattle at idle.

Did have a check engine alarm when I first hit the lake??? Checked everything over and all looks good and is running great. Alarm went away after 10 minutes and a few restarts.

Only thing I can think of is when I ran it without the pump attached it thru some sort of code???

3 hours on the lake and no more alarm and no more clank.

did you look into a housing with the replaceable plastic wear ring? They're a little more expensive, but i'm thinking might be worth it to so easily change the wear ring. Thoughts?

 

[JDinfla]

That's the one to get.
I put the new style on last year. Around $225.00.

 

[dlkhmk]

Looked at the plastic and all stainless versions. I went with the oem Yamaha for no real reason other then $$$. Figured the original lasted 5 years so this one should live past when I plan on keeping this boat. I would say it probably depends on the water you use the boat on. I'm 75% fresh water with only a few salt water trips per year. If you're on more salt water it probably would be better to go stainless. Not sure how I feel about the plastic version unless the liner is easily replaceable.

 

[212s]

300 hrs on the motor and this is the first time I did the cone bearing inspection. I found a few drops of water in the cone and pulled out 2 tablespoons of old yellow grease and refilled the cone with the same amount of new Yamaha EPNOC grease.

I have had a slight rattle development recently at 201 hours in the starboard pump too. It only rattles on/off at idle and is quiet at any speed above idle (boat runs great otherwise with 53.4 mph top speed). I'll be pulling the cones on both pumps to check the rear bearings next weekend (dealer has to order the O-rings) to inspect them. I doubt it's the wear ring as it has never seen salt water, but it could be rust under the ring although I don't see anything when looking in the pump with a bright flashlight - no marks or scrapes on the ring. I'll find out next weekend if there's any water intrusion...hopefully it's just a bit of water that got past the O-ring, and the bearings are fine but needs to be cleaned and re-greased. I don't have the tools to pull the impeller off if it needs new bearings and seals in the front of the pump so it'll have to go to the dealer for that, but I could pull the pump and take it in for them to fix instead of dragging the boat an hour to the dealer.

Interesting fact - I was curious about "Epnoc" grease and found that it's a low temperature lithium grease suitable for marine use. I think the low temp allows it to become more fluid when it heats up to move through the bearings easier, then gels back as it cools. The dealer has that in stock, but not $4 O-rings...so I have to wait a week...go figure.