My 2015 Yamaha 242 Limited S

[Jackew]

Ok - my 10 hours are now pass me. With some guidance from @MikeyL I got the oil change completed! Thanks Mikey.

As my dealership is 5 hours away - I plan on doing my own maintenance work.

Also 10 hours they recommended the the following service:
- Spark Plugs to be changed
Is this really necessary ? Seems odd?
- lubicate bearing housing
Any one can tell me what it takes to do this task?
- re tighten bolts and nuts
What bolts and nuts?

Also got the name on my boat now

 

[MikeyL]

Ok - my 10 hours are now pass me. With some guidance from @MikeyL I got the oil change completed! Thanks Mikey.
Also got the name on my boat now

You are MORE than welcome @Jackew !
Happy "sailing" !

 

[Nesport]

Finally got the boat tested and low and behold, an exhaust pipe came off and suffocated the engines. Unfortunately it also melted the plastic connection so now waiting on parts. I believe this is the 2nd one I've heard of doing this, not sure if it's something that isn't getting tightened from the manufacturer, or if it's coming loose. You would think they would catch this during the dealer prep.

 

[tdonoughue]

Also 10 hours they recommended the the following service:
- Spark Plugs to be changed
Is this really necessary ? Seems odd?
- lubicate bearing housing
Any one can tell me what it takes to do this task?
- re tighten bolts and nuts
What bolts and nuts?

I would not say the plugs are 'necessary'. But probably a good practice at 10 hours. If you do it yourself, it is relatively cheap and easy.

Lubing the bearing housing is necessary. Many reports (including mine) of the bearing taking WAY too much lube at 10 or 50 hours. In other words, the shop at dealer prep or at 10 hours didn't put any or nearly any in. I would do it.

Which bolts and nuts? All of them you can find. In fact, I had so many loose that I started taking them all out and putting anti-seize on them. Start with any nut/bolt on any hatch, door or other swinging thing. Move to the engine compartment, then to the tray in the back. Finish with the ones in the helm compartment and the tower (if you have the right size hex driver for it--it is big).

 

[Nesport]

I would not say the plugs are 'necessary'. But probably a good practice at 10 hours. If you do it yourself, it is relatively cheap and easy.

Lubing the bearing housing is necessary. Many reports (including mine) of the bearing taking WAY too much lube at 10 or 50 hours. In other words, the shop at dealer prep or at 10 hours didn't put any or nearly any in. I would do it.

Which bolts and nuts? All of them you can find. In fact, I had so many loose that I started taking them all out and putting anti-seize on them. Start with any nut/bolt on any hatch, door or other swinging thing. Move to the engine compartment, then to the tray in the back. Finish with the ones in the helm compartment and the tower (if you have the right size hex driver for it--it is big).

So out of curiosity, why anti seize versus like a locktight? Anti size doesn't prevent them from coming loose again, but does stop them fuzing together. Not sure how locktight reacts around water.

 

[MikeyL]

A good idea here is to GOOGLE Anti-seize compounds.
That will explain to you the usefulness of using such a product.
Spark plugs, properly installed, do not come "loose."
But they do "seize" or get stuck in their mounting locations. Anti-seize compound stops that from occurring, or at least helps to minimize that.
You do NOT want to use Loctite around spark plugs. That is not that product's intended landscape.

Good Luck, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[Nesport]

Mikeyl, no one said anything about loctite around spark plugs, the msg above says that he used anti seize on all the nuts and bolts, when tightening. I was curious the advantage there. I've always used anti seize on plugs and never had an issue, never heard of it on all the bolts, that's all.

 

[MikeyL]

Thanks and I apologize for mis-reading.

 

[rkluck]

I use blue Loctite on the various nuts and bolts (on my motorcycles too).

 

[tdonoughue]

So out of curiosity, why anti seize versus like a locktight?

Locktight is a gummy stuff that tries to make sure that the nuts/bolts don't come loose. Certainly functional for those nuts and bolts all over, but I generally don't like it as much. Too gummy. If you ever want it off, it is just a bit messy.

Anti-seize keeps things from seizing, but also lubricates the threads. That has the effect of making it so that you put extra force on the threads, because you reduce the rotational friction on the threads. So you also wind up with a threaded connection less prone to loosening. And it cleans up nicer (more like just a light grease).

Thus, my rationale...

 

[bmb5150]

Got my JL tower speaker covers on. Need to make sure the tower bling is protected.

View attachment 21991 View attachment 21992

Looks like a great idea, we were wondering if they had covers for the speakers. Looks like another needed accessory..

 

[Williamsone46]

@bmb5150 hit up @Earmark Marine if you want some. Their a specialty JL product and kinda hard to find.

 

[Craig]

@Williamsone46 , my wife really dislikes your posts. I get all these great ideas from them. Beautiful boat and awesome mods.

 

[Williamsone46]

@Williamsone46 , my wife really dislikes your posts. I get all these great ideas from them. Beautiful boat and awesome mods.

Tell your wife sorry! And thank you.

 

[bmb5150]

@bmb5150 hit up @Earmark Marine if you want some. Their a specialty JL product and kinda hard to find.

Thanks Adam. Been looking at 2 others but the JL looks like good quality & fits well. Speaker sox shows one that is similar, but not sure of the quality or fit. I am surprised that not many members are not commenting on them.

 

[Williamsone46]

Thanks Adam. Been looking at 2 others but the JL looks like good quality & fits well. Speaker sox shows one that is similar, but not sure of the quality or fit. I am surprised that not many members are not commenting on them.

I don't see very many people use them, especially with how much tower speakers cost.

 

[Nesport]

Does anyone know if the MedRX actually keeps gas from going bad also or do I need to add a separate additive for that? I've always had great success with Star Tron Fuel Treatment (the blue bottle), but the Yamaha manual calls for Engine Med RX speicifically, presuming because they have their had in the pot. Bottle and websites aren't clear on the fuel stabilizer function on it. Anyone else using it?

 

[MikeyL]

Just use MARINE Sta-Bil. Period.
Approx $20-21 @ Amazon and the bottle will treat 320 gallons of gas.
http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22240-Marine-Fuel-Stabilizer/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433342813&sr=8-1&keywords=marine stabil
Proven - You cannot "overmix" either. You can waste by using too much , but you cannot hurt anything.
Enjoy !@
Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[Williamsone46]

Does anyone know if the MedRX actually keeps gas from going bad also or do I need to add a separate additive for that? I've always had great success with Star Tron Fuel Treatment (the blue bottle), but the Yamaha manual calls for Engine Med RX speicifically, presuming because they have their had in the pot. Bottle and websites aren't clear on the fuel stabilizer function on it. Anyone else using it?

I use fuel medrx every fall and have never had a problem.

 

[txav8r]

I use fuel medrx every fall and have never had a problem.

We will never know if you have a problem @Williamsone46 , you trade boats like most change underwear I use Marine Grade Stabil as well and swear by it. I use it in all of my equipment from lawn mower to chainsaw and weed trimmer and blower. It not only extends the shelf life but it also reduces the condensation build up in the tank, and prevents ethanol phase separation. Disclaimer: I know nothing about medrx...but I operate by the philosophy of don't fix what ain't broke, and Stabil works well for me, but so may medrx and other fuel treatments.