Oil again

[David Martin]

He guys just wanted to see how many are using a 10w30 oil in the Yamaha 1.8 engine..........I have been using a 10w40 but according to the manual I could use 10w30 10w40 or even a 20w50. Their are more choices in 10w30 than 10w40

 

[212s]

He guys just wanted to see how many are using a 10w30 oil in the Yamaha 1.8 engine..........I have been using a 10w40 but according to the manual I could use 10w30 10w40 or even a 20w50. Their are more choices in 10w30 than 10w40

You select the grade based on temperature conditions. In Florida and other warm southern states you definitely don't want to go lighter than the recommended grade which is 10w40 - 40 being the critical grade during typical engine operation. Stick to the 10w40 or go with a 15w40.

 

[jthackman]

15w40 rotella t4 here..
easy to find, low price..
and oh yeah, the jetskiers love it..

my truck calls for 10w30 diesel oil, now that's hard to find around me.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

How it was explained to me years ago, 10 = the actual viscosity 30 or 40 etc = the strength of the oil meaning 10 w40 has the viscosity of 10 weight with the strength of a 40 weight oil so the higher the top number the stronger the oil is in dealing with heat and lubrication I use 10w40 in Florida Also I just posted this if you have any mechanical ingenuity you may appreciate this info .


I use an electric fuel injection fuel pump to remove my oil, I hook up a hard clear plastic line to the suction side and a soft clear vinyl hose to the discharge side and I make a hookup for the power using wire black- and red+ and some color coded clamps to hook up to a battery or a battery charger , I place the hard suction side down the oil dip stick hole and the discharge end in a calibrated 5 quart oil bottle to monitor how much oil is withdrawn, I level the engine and remove the oil fill cap to vent the engine I hook up the battery and move the line in the dip stick tube up and down slightly watching the oil come out, when I see air bubbles I stop the pump and let it sit a minute then restart it until I see air bubbles, and repeat this until I have 4 quarts removed, this takes 15 minutes usually then I replace the oil filter and replace the oil. Been doing it this way for many years.
I just put up a picture and price to similar one to what I use, I have never used one of these actual pumps but I see no reason that they would not work just fine if you can afford the $9.48 price!!!! I found that one without all the sending unit stuff on the internet , I have an old jeep fuel pump and have been using it with great success for many years. I keep it and the wires and hoses in a black plastic battery box when it is not in use.

DriveMotiveElectric Fuel Pump Without Fuel Sending Unit

Part Number: REPJ314513

$9.48

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Here’s a good article that explains the multi grade thing with oils. The net net is just follow the owners manual.

https://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

 

[212s]

How it was explained to me years ago, 10 = the actual viscosity 30 or 40 etc = the strength of the oil meaning 10 w40 has the viscosity of 10 weight with the strength of a 40 weight oil so the higher the top number the stronger the oil is in dealing with heat and lubrication I use 10w40 in Florida

The first number is the cold weather "W"inter viscosity, and the second is the operational temp viscosity. It acts like 10 weight during start in cold weather to flow easily, and 40 weight when the engine is running at typical operational temp. In southern climates where it rarely hits freezing, you could run straight 40 weight without much wear issues, but 10w40 is easier to find.

 

[David Martin]

Thanks guys I do live in the swamp FL so 40w it is. I am looking a T5 semi synthic 15w40 as is has a good amount of Moly........... the shell T4 and Full synthic T6 has no moly. Thanks again. Getting ready for oil change and a oil analysis just to verify what I see on my plug read. After the injector cleaning and all new injector fuel screens the Plugs look great..........hear is the comparison to the last read. Black stone found twice the amount of gas in the oil as normal thinning out my viscosity and some metal wear on my cylinder walls and rings nothing to high but it showed I was washing down the cyl walls with raw fuel. So the oil analysis and plug read was well worth it. As I was able to correct a problem early before a lot of damage was done. As you can see the second plug from the left was black and all plugs read vary rich.........the new read is looking vary normal.

 

[BlkGS]

Would people recommend the same oil for the mr1s? I've always used Mobil 1 in mine, but that doesn't make it the best choice for the application.

 

[212s]

Thanks guys I do live in the swamp FL so 40w it is. I am looking a T5 semi synthic 15w40 as is has a good amount of Moly........... the shell T4 and Full synthic T6 has no moly.

If you're doing an oil analysis with Yamalube, you'll find there is zero moly in it, and almost no magnesium. I was surprised to see that. I'm switching to Castrol GTX 10w40 with a better additives pack with moly and magnesium. Plus it's half the cost for better oil that I can find at my local auto store instead of an hour to the dealer.

Same for oil filters, the Yamaha 69j is an over-priced el cheapo filter so I've switched to Fram TG3600 (thanks Jeff @Cobra Jet Steering LLC ). The longer filter will help get more dirty oil out of the engine during changes, plus it has higher filtration. And for 1/3 the price of the Yamaha 69j you get a better filter.