Markk
Jetboaters Lieutenant
- Messages
- 280
- Reaction score
- 325
- Points
- 167
- Location
- Grand Prairie 75054
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2014
- Boat Model
- Limited S
- Boat Length
- 24
I had posted this on the "other site" a few years ago. Thought it might be helpful to others if I copied it over to here.
Finding all the correct parts and figuring out our ShoreLandr's bearing assembly was more complicated than expected. I had packed trailer bearings before, but this one had some new tricks. Details below for anyone planning to do this. I spoke to ShoreLandr directly for additional detailed support.
Shopping list:
1-1/16" Bearing L-44649 (Tractor Supply has 502T Kit for $19.99)
1-3/8" Bearing L-68149
1.719" Rear Grease Seal (Found at Local trailer supply for $2.77ea, replace every time you re-pack)
**Spindle Wear Ring (Hardest part to find. Get from Shorelandr or Marine Supplier, no local auto parts or bearing supply knew what I was talking about. McGoy Propeller in Lewisville, TX had parts)
Spare Cotter Pins (1/8" x 1.5",2" from O'Reilly worked for me)
Marine Grease tub and gun
Tools Needed:
Refer to photo below. Notable tools listed here.
- Find 6" long 3/8" hex socket with swivel type tip. This is crucial for brake removal.
Temperature Readings after re-pack:
Front Axle: 118 at edge of wheel, 118 at hub
Rear Axle: 121 at Edge of wheel, 135 at hub, 166 on brake rotor
Process:
1. Jack up and remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliper. Start with standard 3/8" hex wrench. You'll need to hit wrench with dead blow hammer to break loose. These bolts are locktite-ed on. Once broken you can use socket-hex wrench to remove. Prepare to be frustrated at this step.
3. Use dead blow hammer to knock bearing buddy off while spinning hub.
4. Remove cotter pin, castle nut, washer and outer bearing. Wipe away grease as available.
5. Re-install washer and castle nut temporarily. Pull hub off catching washer with rear bearing. Rotate and pull several times. This will dis-lodge rear seal from hub. Remove real seal and rear bearing. Inspect rear grease seal for spring health. Inspect rear of hub for evidence of grease leaking past seal. There will be grease on rear of hub, and inside of wheel if seals were compromised. All (4) of mine were "sprung" and crinkled from being out of place.
6. Wipe all grease on rags/towels. Inspect spindle wear ring at base of spindle. Verify it is "glued" in place. If hub has reached high temperature the red locktite will have let go or wear ring will be split. All (4) of mine had come loose, one had split into two pieces. When they are "unglued" they will spin with your grease seal causing extra heat.
7. Re-glue wear sleeve with red threadlocker. Wipe excess locktite before dry. Allow to set 20 min to set.
8. Clean, inspect and re-pack bearings. Look for signs of distress, overheating etc on bearings and races. Replace if necessary. Pack bearings with new marine grease.
9. Pre-grease axle spindle and wear sleeve.
10. Install rear bearing and new grease seal in hub. Use dead blow hammer and block of wood to evenly knock new seal into hub. Install hub on axle spindle.
11. Insert front bearing, washer and castle nut.
12. Tighten castle nut to 18-20ft-lbs(spec from Shorelandr) or tighten all the way to compress, then back off until you can rock hub back and forth. Then tighten 1 cotter pin slot at a time until you can't rock hub left to right. Install Cotter Pin.
13. Install bearing buddy with dead blow hammer. Pump grease into zerk until pressure plate just starts to move outward.
14. Spin hub while looking behind hub. Verify no grease is leaking out of rear. Verify that wear sleeve is not rotating with grease seal. You'll be able to see just the silver lip of the wear sleeve.
15. Clean brake rotor with brake cleaner to remove grease from rotor and pads.
16. Re-install tire and while jacked up grab it from both sides pulling left-right. Verify the wheel will not rock left to right. [All of mine rocked before re-pack. Castle nuts could be removed by hand.]
17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts. Repeat for all hubs then take for test drive. Take temperature readings at edge of wheel, hub and brakes. Reference temperatures above.
Finding all the correct parts and figuring out our ShoreLandr's bearing assembly was more complicated than expected. I had packed trailer bearings before, but this one had some new tricks. Details below for anyone planning to do this. I spoke to ShoreLandr directly for additional detailed support.
Shopping list:
1-1/16" Bearing L-44649 (Tractor Supply has 502T Kit for $19.99)
1-3/8" Bearing L-68149
1.719" Rear Grease Seal (Found at Local trailer supply for $2.77ea, replace every time you re-pack)
**Spindle Wear Ring (Hardest part to find. Get from Shorelandr or Marine Supplier, no local auto parts or bearing supply knew what I was talking about. McGoy Propeller in Lewisville, TX had parts)
Spare Cotter Pins (1/8" x 1.5",2" from O'Reilly worked for me)
Marine Grease tub and gun
Tools Needed:
Refer to photo below. Notable tools listed here.
- Find 6" long 3/8" hex socket with swivel type tip. This is crucial for brake removal.
Temperature Readings after re-pack:
Front Axle: 118 at edge of wheel, 118 at hub
Rear Axle: 121 at Edge of wheel, 135 at hub, 166 on brake rotor
Process:
1. Jack up and remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliper. Start with standard 3/8" hex wrench. You'll need to hit wrench with dead blow hammer to break loose. These bolts are locktite-ed on. Once broken you can use socket-hex wrench to remove. Prepare to be frustrated at this step.
3. Use dead blow hammer to knock bearing buddy off while spinning hub.
4. Remove cotter pin, castle nut, washer and outer bearing. Wipe away grease as available.
5. Re-install washer and castle nut temporarily. Pull hub off catching washer with rear bearing. Rotate and pull several times. This will dis-lodge rear seal from hub. Remove real seal and rear bearing. Inspect rear grease seal for spring health. Inspect rear of hub for evidence of grease leaking past seal. There will be grease on rear of hub, and inside of wheel if seals were compromised. All (4) of mine were "sprung" and crinkled from being out of place.
6. Wipe all grease on rags/towels. Inspect spindle wear ring at base of spindle. Verify it is "glued" in place. If hub has reached high temperature the red locktite will have let go or wear ring will be split. All (4) of mine had come loose, one had split into two pieces. When they are "unglued" they will spin with your grease seal causing extra heat.
7. Re-glue wear sleeve with red threadlocker. Wipe excess locktite before dry. Allow to set 20 min to set.
8. Clean, inspect and re-pack bearings. Look for signs of distress, overheating etc on bearings and races. Replace if necessary. Pack bearings with new marine grease.
9. Pre-grease axle spindle and wear sleeve.
10. Install rear bearing and new grease seal in hub. Use dead blow hammer and block of wood to evenly knock new seal into hub. Install hub on axle spindle.
11. Insert front bearing, washer and castle nut.
12. Tighten castle nut to 18-20ft-lbs(spec from Shorelandr) or tighten all the way to compress, then back off until you can rock hub back and forth. Then tighten 1 cotter pin slot at a time until you can't rock hub left to right. Install Cotter Pin.
13. Install bearing buddy with dead blow hammer. Pump grease into zerk until pressure plate just starts to move outward.
14. Spin hub while looking behind hub. Verify no grease is leaking out of rear. Verify that wear sleeve is not rotating with grease seal. You'll be able to see just the silver lip of the wear sleeve.
15. Clean brake rotor with brake cleaner to remove grease from rotor and pads.
16. Re-install tire and while jacked up grab it from both sides pulling left-right. Verify the wheel will not rock left to right. [All of mine rocked before re-pack. Castle nuts could be removed by hand.]
17. Lower jack and torque lug nuts. Repeat for all hubs then take for test drive. Take temperature readings at edge of wheel, hub and brakes. Reference temperatures above.
