ShoreLand'r trailer surge brakes - should roller pin return when stopped?

[kfox112]

Hi Jet Boaters,

I have a 2023 222S with a ShoreLandr trailer that I purchased in April. Until a few weeks ago, I was able to reverse the trailer without needing the key. Now, anytime I try to back up without the key, the brakes immediately lock. I used a multi-meter to confirm the towing vehicle is indeed powering the center pin (reverse) on the 7 pin connector, so the issue lies in the trailer.

My question - when stopped, the roller pin always sits closer to mid-way within the slot rather than all the way front. Every time I want to back up, I have to put my feet against my Tahoe and push on the bow of the boat with all my might, bouncing up and down, to get the roller pin front enough to fit the key in the slot. Is that normal? I'm wondering if my problem is the solenoid or if there's some spring action that's not strong enough to fully disengage after stopping.

I guess I'm still hoping I can figure out how to fix it myself... and wondering if it's electrical and I should take it apart, or if it's something I'm going to waste my time on. The boat has already spent 8 weeks at the dealer since April for 10-hour service and the recall. They take forever and don't take appointments, so I'm dreading having to take it to them.

 

[Neutron]

I had mine hang up occasionally, i soaked the tongue, slide, everything in there with penetrant and didn’t have the issue come back. I probably have to do it again since i haven't moved the boat in over 8 months

 

[Dixemon]

Same here, the roller pin will usually hang in the middle, forward or rear of the slot when you are on different grades with the boat hooked up. Try pulling forward on an incline and then you should be able to put the manual lock out in the slot. You may have to plan your installation of lock out when you are close to the house and on the appropriate grade angle. as far as the reverse solenoid, I would check all the wiring and make sure you don't have some corrosion on the trailer connector or the truck connection. sometimes pushing the connector in and out of the slot 10-15 times will remove the oxidation necessary to make good contact. or spray it out with some alcohol, contact cleaner stuff.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Also, the solenoid wires have bullet connections. Take the connections apart and use your multi meter set to Ohms and read through the coil of the bypass solenoid. If it reads open then the coil in the solenoid has gone bad.

While you’ve got wires of the solenoid out check to see whether there is power at those wires. Caution make sure none of the wires touch metal when you are checking voltage

 

[kfox112]

I had mine hang up occasionally, i soaked the tongue, slide, everything in there with penetrant and didn’t have the issue come back. I probably have to do it again since i haven't moved the boat in over 8 months

Good idea - I'll lube mine up as well.

Same here, the roller pin will usually hang in the middle, forward or rear of the slot when you are on different grades with the boat hooked up. Try pulling forward on an incline and then you should be able to put the manual lock out in the slot. You may have to plan your installation of lock out when you are close to the house and on the appropriate grade angle. as far as the reverse solenoid, I would check all the wiring and make sure you don't have some corrosion on the trailer connector or the truck connection. sometimes pushing the connector in and out of the slot 10-15 times will remove the oxidation necessary to make good contact. or spray it out with some alcohol, contact cleaner stuff.

Thanks for the advice. I don't think I have corrosion, but I'm going to double check. Or at least, I didn't expect corrosion so quickly. Hmm. ?

Also, the solenoid wires have bullet connections. Take the connections apart and use your multi meter set to Ohms and read through the coil of the bypass solenoid. If it reads open then the coil in the solenoid has gone bad.

While you’ve got wires of the solenoid out check to see whether there is power at those wires. Caution make sure none of the wires touch metal when you are checking voltage

Awesome, I'm definitely going to try metering out the solenoid this weekend! I didn't realize this was possible. Apologies if this is a dumb question, but is the solenoid located somewhere in the coupler, and are they hard to get to? Thanks!

 

[Dixemon]

You have to take the entire tounge apart to get to the master cylinder. It is mounted on the rear of the master. If the brake line is long enough you can set it on a low table right next to the trailer and work on it. It can be a pain if the pins dont want to come out. Def put a meter on it and check continiuty, coil ohms ect. Before you tear into it. Also, spray the hell out of the whole actuator with lps3 before you reinstall. I wouldnt let it ruin your summer though if it tows fine and you can get the lockout pin installed. Good winter project, or dealer warranty service.
Check out this video

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Good idea - I'll lube mine up as well.


Thanks for the advice. I don't think I have corrosion, but I'm going to double check. Or at least, I didn't expect corrosion so quickly. Hmm. ?


Awesome, I'm definitely going to try metering out the solenoid this weekend! I didn't realize this was possible. Apologies if this is a dumb question, but is the solenoid located somewhere in the coupler, and are they hard to get to? Thanks!

Yes the bypass solenoid is on the back end of the actuator. You should be able to see it with the swing tongue swung over, the connections you are looking for are in the fixed side of the trailer.

As @Dixemon suggested, make sure corrosion or a loose connection aren’t your issue.

 

[kfox112]

Thanks for the assistance @FSH 210 Sport and @Dixemon !

On Sunday, I pulled the pin, swung the tongue out of the way, and started looking around. As suggested, I could see the solenoid on the tongue side, with a blue and white wire into the trailer side. I unscrewed the clasp holding the coiled trailer wire/7-pin connector in place and pulled the grommet out, allowing me to pull all the connections thru to the outside, revealing the bullet connectors.

Solenoid metered great (photo attached to show how I pulled the wires thru). It turns out the issue is in the connector / coiled wire. The center pin on the connector did NOT have continuity to the blue wire intended to power the solenoid. Ohms reading was all over the place and sometimes showing open. I also plugged it in, put the vehicle in reverse, and checked for voltage, but nada.



I called the dealer today, explained, and pleaded with them to mail me a new 7pin connector / wire rather than make me drive out there for something I could fix myself but don't want to pay for the part since the trailer is under warranty. They were receptive and said they think they'll be able to do it as long as I mail the original back, but they had some research to do / a claim to file with ShoreLandr. Fingers crossed they will just send me the part. ?

Thanks again for helping me diagnose.

 

[Dixemon]

Your on the right track, make sure to use some good heatshrink splices to join those connections back, yamaha slapped some sae bs on those trailer wires

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well done! Extra points and a gold star for checking the continuity through the 7 pin connector and finding the problem. I’d be even happier if the dealer would have just said we will ship you a new one and send us the old one.