Starboard engine won’t crank over

[keywestdave]

Jet boat family, I was out today with my 2008 AR230 HO, and my starboard engine started making a weird noise with a slight vibration coming from that side. Water flowed fine out of the two discharge ports, with no overheating or low oil light on, and then the RPM gauge was acting weird, then the boat stalled. I tried to restart a few times after checking the oil, but it won’t crack over; the engine moves like it wants to start but won’t, almost like something has seized up. I changed the oil, plugs, and filter and regreased the Zirk fittings for the shaft two months ago. The boat has around 400 hrs on both engines, do all my maintenance annually. I’m curious if anybody has had a similar problem like this. I’m hoping the engine didn’t blow up, and I’m stressing a little. Thanks for any insight in advance!

 

[Acard7]

First I’d start with checking all the kill switches: Lanyard and clean out switches. Second, pull the pump to the starboard engine, this will allow the engine to have less strain to turn over. If that works then you must have something stuck between the lining and the impeller. Hook up YDS and see if there is any sort of problem that didn’t have time to throw a warning light. Make sure you’re in true neutral, I know it’s crazy to say that but we’ve all been there.

When you say the engine moves like it wants to start, so do you mean the engine turns over but doesn’t start?

 

[keywestdave]

Does not turn over at all. It’s like something is stuck or blown. I can send a video tomorrow. I will all the things you listed above.

 

[Beachbummer]

If it does not rotate at all, I would suggest checking pump cavity and even removing pump to ensure it's not the pump causing the seize symptom.

 

[Acard7]

Makes me think your clean out hatch kill switch isn’t working if the engine won’t turn over at all.. When you pull the pump also place something like a dime on the starboard clean out kill switch to make it push down further when you close the hatch (make sure the nuts are tight too). If the lanyard kill switch is bad it still turns over, if the clean out hatch kill switch is bad I don’t believe it would turn over at all.

If none of the above works I guess it could be the starter/starter solenoid too? Not very savvy with starter issues or how to test them, I’m sure someone on here knows though.

 

[Scottintexas]

we've seen people suck up tow ropes and it's stalled the engine,

my guess would be something is in the pump/impeller,

how did you return to the dock ? hopefully at no wake speed otherwise you could have sent cooling water into the dead engine and that would cause more issues,

do you trailer or have a lift or wet slip ?

 

[adrianp89]

Def not a kill switch issue. I agree that it sounds like something stuck in pump. Crawl under and take a look.

 

[keywestdave]

Ok, guys, I took the pump apart, and it was the bearing in the nose part of the cone that went bad. I’m getting the bearing repressed and replaced Wednesday, so I should have the boat back in the water by the weekend. Thanks for all the help and suggestions; much appreciated!!

 

[keywestdave]

we've seen people suck up tow ropes, and it's stalled the engine,

my guess would be something is in the pump/impeller,

how did you return to the dock? hopefully, at a no-wake speed; otherwise, you could have sent cooling water into the dead engine, and that would cause more issues,

do you trailer or have a lift or wet slip?

I trolled back on one engine. The other one was off because it wouldn’t start. The boat is dry-docked on a floating dock when not used.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

best to check the other cone bearing while you’re at it.