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Steering U-Connector Removal

n8dogger32

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
31
Reaction score
8
Points
87
Location
Merritt Island, FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
24
I'm trying lube my port side steering cable hoping that it makes it easier to turn the steering when. When disconnecting the U-Connector from the jet I've tried to loosen the retaining nut but second guessing which way to turn it. It's only supposed to be 2 in/lbs or something but it's not moving either way. So my remedial question is which way should I be turning this not so I don't force it and end up breaking something. I thought it would be as simple as turning the nut clockwise further up the cable but then started thinking it may be reverse threaded so stopped trying to force it.
20251027_095146.jpg
 
I'm trying lube my port side steering cable hoping that it makes it easier to turn the steering when. When disconnecting the U-Connector from the jet I've tried to loosen the retaining nut but second guessing which way to turn it. It's only supposed to be 2 in/lbs or something but it's not moving either way. So my remedial question is which way should I be turning this not so I don't force it and end up breaking something. I thought it would be as simple as turning the nut clockwise further up the cable but then started thinking it may be reverse threaded so stopped trying to force it.
View attachment 240681
Its standard threads rightly tighty lefty loosey.
If its the original cables i am sure there is corrosion on the threads. Hold the cable just after the threads with vice grips and then turn the end piece with something like channel lock plyers counter clockwise after you back the locking nut off clockwise but take note where it all is to put back in the same adjustment. If your cables are original they might need replacement if they are tight
 
Its standard threads rightly tighty lefty loosey.
If its the original cables i am sure there is corrosion on the threads. Hold the cable just after the threads with vice grips and then turn the end piece with something like channel lock plyers counter clockwise after you back the locking nut off clockwise but take note where it all is to put back in the same adjustment. If your cables are original they might need replacement if they are tight
Thanks, I'll give that a shot
 
With the confidence instilled by @Neutron and the subsequent like by @FSH 210 Sport I got the retaining nut loose no problem after a little PB blaster and elbow grease. Also got the cable lubed and I'm turning left again. There is a mild clicking sound from the steering column that I think has always been there but a fellow jet boat owner claimed it could be failing teeth on the gears in the steering box. We shall see. If I get stuck again I'll head back to the forums :). Thanks all.
 
With the confidence instilled by @Neutron and the subsequent like by @FSH 210 Sport I got the retaining nut loose no problem after a little PB blaster and elbow grease. Also got the cable lubed and I'm turning left again. There is a mild clicking sound from the steering column that I think has always been there but a fellow jet boat owner claimed it could be failing teeth on the gears in the steering box. We shall see. If I get stuck again I'll head back to the forums :). Thanks all.
Doubt the teeth are that worn to produce a problem. They are quite beefy. The clicking could be the bad spot in the cable clicking evertime it goes by the spot
 
Glad you got it freed up… seeing that you’re in salt water and the steering cable locked up it might be prudent to order a new set of steering cables and install them. Perhaps lube the new cables before installing them to help prolong their life?

I’d suggest coating the threads with Loctite 572 or an equivalent to keep the threads from becoming stiff or locked up. Thats the product specified in my service manual for the jet pump fastener threads.

IMG_0374.png
 
Ideally, yes I would have replaced the assembly but it's showing as $450. I'm currently furloughed so was hoping for the simple easy (cheap) fix to get me through for a bit longer. Also going through hull still gets me nervous :).
 
Ideally, yes I would have replaced the assembly but it's showing as $450. I'm currently furloughed so was hoping for the simple easy (cheap) fix to get me through for a bit longer. Also going through hull still gets me nervous :).
Copy. Just don’t want to see you have that cable fail while you’re on the water. Always nice to make such repairs at your convenience and not when it breaks. Going through the hull won’t be a problem, just be sure the hull is free of any of the original sealant, clean with acetone and use a quality sealant, copious amounts, and let it fully cure.
 
Wow the price if those went up. But unfortunately i see a replacement in your future. If one side snaps which does happen you are screwed. You will limp back on one engine unless you have the second tierod
 
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