temp gauges + tell tale/pisser/pilot Flow Indicator questions.

[FSHER]

Good day,

I find the lack of engine gauges to be lacking in my 2021 FSH 210 and would like to poke brains for possible solutions. I'm looking at potentially 3 problems to solve. its likely overkill and I have not thought it all through. I just feel like I have no idea what's going on with these engines and no way to tell until there is a bigger problem.

First id like to find a way to monitor either pressure or flow from the cooling water coming in or out of the engine., whichever makes more sense. This could be a check value or something like that indicating either yes there is flow/pressure or no. I boat in Florida on the salt water and we have periods of massive amounts of turtle grass and in the no wake zones it doesn't take much to clog up the intake and over heat the engines. first ill lose cooling water then ill get the overheat alarm. it would be nice to know that the cooling water has stopped flowing before i get the overheat alarm. there's no indication until the overheat alarm. I made a few points on the diagram that may look interesting. I'm thinking for this squawk point "CP" would make the most sense.

second id like to measure the temperature of the cooling water at whatever point in the system that would make the most sense. This would be great to be able to know what the normal operating temps are and be able to compare the 2 engines. Maybe after the thermostat would be a good spot at point "AT"

Lastly, recently, a portion of my exhaust melted off due to hot exhaust gases not having enough cooling water mixed in that was caused by a hole in a leaking wet pipe. likely a rare issue but I I would really like to be able to monitor exhaust gas temp or the exhaust water temp or something along those lines. these would be another one that I would like to be able to just look down and do a quick side by side comparison between the engines. not sure where or how on this one because i believe a sensor would need to be placed pretty far down stream, maybe right at the exit port on the top of the water lock?

I did see that someone put a temp gauge on the pilot/pisser other then that my research comes up with nothing.

as these bad ideas? has anyone done anything like this? curious on your thoughts.

-Mark

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

A quick search found this thread..

Thread 'Bad Thermosensor = Intermittent overheat'

Dec 27, 2015

solved: Post #34

i think i remember reading about someone fixing a re-occurring overheat issue, but can't recall the member ...or if it was even this site. if i remember correctly, the "fix" was flushing out a theorized build-up of crud for an extended period of time - i'm curious about the set-up, time, and if any chemicals were used? this is my first boat, but there seems to be quite a bit of crust built up in various places to me.

for some reason, @Ronnie @OperationROL @sysinu all pop into my head for possibilities, but i couldn't turn them up in my...

• CrankyGypsy
• Replies: 80
• Forum: General Discussion

Trail Tech has been used by a few members here.. you put it on the cooling water outlet. As far as indicators go, that is what the pilot water outlets are for, for some reason I find calling them pissers unpalatable. I can hear mine at idle ahead, otherwise I just lean over a bit and check the flow. The overheat alarm that comes from the engine or exhaust is there for the reason to alert you of overheating.. personally think just monitoring the cooling water outlet temp is sufficient, BUT, if there is no cooling water the temp sensor won’t work, if the flow is restricted then it may still work.

I thought your exhaust mixer / over heat issue was caused by that device being clogged up with salt?

I wouldn’t spend a lot of time and money on adding a bunch of monitoring devices on the engines, you have built in alarms, and this problem was caused by salt build up, so perhaps just use the installed pilot water outlets and perhaps a review of salt away instructions and I’d do the more extensive salt removal salt away describes on their web site.

 

[FSHER]

A quick search found this thread..

Thread 'Bad Thermosensor = Intermittent overheat'

Dec 27, 2015

solved: Post #34

i think i remember reading about someone fixing a re-occurring overheat issue, but can't recall the member ...or if it was even this site. if i remember correctly, the "fix" was flushing out a theorized build-up of crud for an extended period of time - i'm curious about the set-up, time, and if any chemicals were used? this is my first boat, but there seems to be quite a bit of crust built up in various places to me.

for some reason, @Ronnie @OperationROL @sysinu all pop into my head for possibilities, but i couldn't turn them up in my...

• CrankyGypsy
• Replies: 80
• Forum: General Discussion

Trail Tech has been used by a few members here.. you put it on the cooling water outlet. As far as indicators go, that is what the pilot water outlets are for, for some reason I find calling them pissers unpalatable. I can hear mine at idle ahead, otherwise I just lean over a bit and check the flow. The overheat alarm that comes from the engine or exhaust is there for the reason to alert you of overheating.. personally think just monitoring the cooling water outlet temp is sufficient, BUT, if there is no cooling water the temp sensor won’t work, if the flow is restricted then it may still work.

I thought your exhaust mixer / over heat issue was caused by that device being clogged up with salt?

I wouldn’t spend a lot of time and money on adding a bunch of monitoring devices on the engines, you have built in alarms, and this problem was caused by salt build up, so perhaps just use the installed pilot water outlets and perhaps a review of salt away instructions and I’d do the more extensive salt removal salt away describes on their web site.

I hear ya and yes looking overboard to check out the pilots is fine but I’d rather glance down quickly at a gauge opposed to leaving the helm every few seconds. I’ll be in a no wake for 30 mins at times. Checking the pilots every now and then is fine but not ideal. One second they’re running great and the next they’re not. These weeds are a huge problem down here.

It’s definitely something I want to do, just looking for the best way to do it.

As far as my issue, It possibly started with torn wet pipe that connected the water lock to the resonator. Water slowly leaked out and coincidentally the exhaust pipe built up salt. Maybe that salt build up was enough to start the entire process and tear the wet pipe maybe it wasn’t. But I believe water leaking out the wet pipe allowed hot gasses to blow through the system. The day the issues came to a head was the day that I ran the boat the longest and hardest in a very long time. Over time the resonator couldn’t take the heat but I’m sure it was just fine for the shorter trips in the past. But then again the tear in the pipe could’ve been caused by the clogged up exhaust. I did feel like the salt build up came off the exhaust pipe relatively easy.

if I had a way to measure the exhaust gas/temperature after the resonator I would’ve seen that there was an issue long before the melting happened.

Maybe just measuring the exhaust temperature kills 2 birds with one stone. It would increase with no water flow. Measuring it might be tricky. Would it measure the water, the gas and water mixture or the gas alone?