TR1 Max RPM solutions

[randocommando]

Hello gang,

I have read all the posts I can find about max RPMs on my 2018 FSH. Usually I can run 7800rpms on each of my TR-1s. I did an oil/filter, air filter, and spark plug change at 189 hours. Now, I am only hit 7400 with WOT. With hole shots or cavitation, the engine will pop up into the 8000+ range briefly. I removed some oil, and even took out the air filters, but that did nothing. I also added lube to the Zerk fitting along the driveshaft. Several pumps when I changed the oil and spark plugs. Is it possible that too much lube would lead to extra friction and thus RPM loss? I can't find if this has been discussed.

Most of the forums never state how one of us actually was able to realize 8000rpm. Instead, there are lots of suggestions, or somebody drops their boat in for service, but fails to respond back with their solution.

I'm hoping somebody has the answer. I have the Yamaha YES extended warranty. However, every time I drop the boat off, it sits there for weeks. Would rather DIY the fix.

Thanks in advance your your suggestions!!

 

[Liveto99]

My normally pops right back up close to 8000 after I change the spark plugs, after about 50 hours on the plugs it slows down. Another thing I noticed was stuff forward in the boat slows it down if you have a bunch of crap upfront move it to the rear and see if your RPMs go up.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Hello gang,

I have read all the posts I can find about max RPMs on my 2018 FSH. Usually I can run 7800rpms on each of my TR-1s. I did an oil/filter, air filter, and spark plug change at 189 hours. Now, I am only hit 7400 with WOT. With hole shots or cavitation, the engine will pop up into the 8000+ range briefly. I removed some oil, and even took out the air filters, but that did nothing. I also added lube to the Zerk fitting along the driveshaft. Several pumps when I changed the oil and spark plugs. Is it possible that too much lube would lead to extra friction and thus RPM loss? I can't find if this has been discussed.

Most of the forums never state how one of us actually was able to realize 8000rpm. Instead, there are lots of suggestions, or somebody drops their boat in for service, but fails to respond back with their solution.

I'm hoping somebody has the answer. I have the Yamaha YES extended warranty. However, every time I drop the boat off, it sits there for weeks. Would rather DIY the fix.

Thanks in advance your your suggestions!!

Where is the oil on the dipsticks?

Did you gap the plugs? You could always try putting the old plugs back in and see what it does.

 

[brian86992]

Sign me up for the "never gotten a consistent 8K" group.

Do any of you experience the RPM gauges bouncing around wildly from 0-8k and back when at WOT? Engines run fine but the gauges go crazy.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Sign me up for the "never gotten a consistent 8K" group.

Do any of you experience the RPM gauges bouncing around wildly from 0-8k and back when at WOT? Engines run fine but the gauges go crazy.

I have yet to get to i8000 rpm as I’m at high altitude, that may change when I get my new impellers.

I’ve never seen my Tach’s fluctuate even at 7500, that’ the highest I’ve seen on my boat. Your issue sounds like it could be a loose connection.. do they only fluctuate at 8000?

 

[randocommando]

Thanks for the comments. Oil is halfway between the 2 dipstick marks. Has been a pain to get the level dialed in as I have to lower it in the water, warm up engines, and then let engines rest for a couple of minutes. Warm engine levels fluctuate a lot from the 'cold' level. I tossed the old spark plugs in the trash already, but only have a few hours on the new ones. Checked the gap on a couple, and they were fine out of the box. Did not gap all the plugs. I am thinking of ordering 3 new plugs, and then install on one engine to compare to the other. I installed NGK 6955 CR9EB plugs. I believe they were the same the dealer used. Anybody use different ones at get near 8k rpms?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for the comments. Oil is halfway between the 2 dipstick marks. Has been a pain to get the level dialed in as I have to lower it in the water, warm up engines, and then let engines rest for a couple of minutes. Warm engine levels fluctuate a lot from the 'cold' level. I tossed the old spark plugs in the trash already, but only have a few hours on the new ones. Checked the gap on a couple, and they were fine out of the box. Did not gap all the plugs. I am thinking of ordering 3 new plugs, and then install on one engine to compare to the other. I installed NGK 6955 CR9EB plugs. I believe they were the same the dealer used. Anybody use different ones at get near 8k rpms?

Just pull the new plugs out and make sure they are all gapped at the minimum. The boat was running fine until you did this maintenance so it has to be something you changed. Also, check that each plug is what you think it is, e.g. make sure each plug is marked CR9EB. The oil level sounds spot on, so that’s not it. The air filters are clean so that’s not it, so it has to be the plugs. There is nothing else you changed?

 

[randocommando]

Didn't change anything else. Just greased the zerk fitting. I'll gap the plugs at the minimum spacing and let you so know. Thanks!

 

[Betik]

Not likely to be the cause but can you pull the air filter and inspect ?
I only say this because in the past I had screwed up with the fogging oil and socked one my air filters without realizing it. And I recall in the MR1 overfilling with oil would lead to air filters getting socked. Not sure if that might the case with TR1 though

 

[JASmith]

I'm back in this same mess myself this year. I had her dialed in last fall and was getting 7500 on both engines consistently at 1k Elevation here in MN. After de-winterization I'm barely over 7k. I'm going to level her out on the trailer and check plugs and oil today before we go out.

Am I the only one who feels like measuring oil in these engines is way more complicated than it should be? Never had so much question with any of my other toys or vehicles as to what it means and when. *sigh*

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Not likely to be the cause but can you pull the air filter and inspect ?
I only say this because in the past I had screwed up with the fogging oil and socked one my air filters without realizing it. And I recall in the MR1 overfilling with oil would lead to air filters getting socked. Not sure if that might the case with TR1 though

He pulled the air filters and ran it with no change.

 

[randocommando]

Same, no better with air filters out. Agree, it is difficult to check oil level with confidence. Seems to vary greatly depending on boat angle, engine temp, and how long engine rests after shutting it down. Not to mention the vague instructions that don't indicate whether you screw the dipstick all the way in before checking it or just insert to the threads. Seems the consensus is to screw the cap in fully before checking the level, which is what I do.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Same, no better with air filters out. Agree, it is difficult to check oil level with confidence. Seems to vary greatly depending on boat angle, engine temp, and how long engine rests after shutting it down. Not to mention the vague instructions that don't indicate whether you screw the dipstick all the way in before checking it or just insert to the threads. Seems the consensus is to screw the cap in fully before checking the level, which is what I do.

 

[brian86992]

Thank you for this link about screwing in the dipstick! Whatever user/service manual I was referencing was very vague on that point and I had to google way too much.

I’ve never seen my Tach’s fluctuate even at 7500, that’ the highest I’ve seen on my boat. Your issue sounds like it could be a loose connection.. do they only fluctuate at 8000?

Yeah they bounce around like wild at WOT while I'm surfing around 8k RPM. Engines run without issue it's just what the tachs report.