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Waverunner TR1 problems

Dbeelen

Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
3
Points
12
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
Jet Ski
Boat Length
17
Hi all. New to the forum and need some advice.
I own a vx deluxe 2021 with around 170 hours. Never had any mechanical issue and keep it very clean with all recommended services. During my last 50 hour service I unfortunately break the spark plug on cylinder 1. Unfortunately learn after that we should use anti seize grease on them, not advertise on manuals. Had to bring to a mechanic shop as I could not remove the spark plug with a screw extractor and didn’t want to force and damage the cylinder head.
Long story, but went to 2 shop and both mentioned they need to complete remove the engine, disassemble the head to work on the removal of the broken spark.
Left my pwc at the shop and the broken spark plug was successfully removed but I am starting to have valve issues.
1. After assembly all back again, in the shop while testing, the engine failed and had valve 2 bent (not the the cylinder I had a broken spark plug with)
2. Valve was replaced for a new OEM, any tested according to shop. I went for a test drive and after 15 minutes engine stopped. I had issues with a hose that was disconnect from the cooling return below engine as it did not had the retainer well set. All tough I had a lot of water accumulation inside the engine compartment, I could check water was not the reason the engine stop as it did not enter the air intake
3. Drop again at the mechanic shop and the cylinder head was removed again and was found again issues with valve on cylinder 2. This time a broken retainer. Valve was still held in place by half of the retainer and the other half fortunately did not fell inside cylinder. A new retainer was set and went for a new test drive.
4. Ran again for 15 minutes, low rpm’s and starting to cruise. Close to 4800 rpm’s again engine stopped. No signs of power loss, it just stop right away. I suspect again same issues. Have to drop again to the mechanic to have a look.

I do suspect the shop is not timing it correctly, causing the issues on valve 2. I am not aware on how difficult is to perform this and also if a small bad adjustment can only damage one valve. I cannot see other reasons apart from this as the engine was running perfectly fine before the mechanic shop intervention.
Any of you can give me some light on what possible problems it could be other than a poor chain timing ?
Ps: The funny part is that now each time they need to remove the head is not necessary anymore to remove the whole engine.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Hi all. New to the forum and need some advice.
I own a vx deluxe 2021 with around 170 hours. Never had any mechanical issue and keep it very clean with all recommended services. During my last 50 hour service I unfortunately break the spark plug on cylinder 1. Unfortunately learn after that we should use anti seize grease on them, not advertise on manuals. Had to bring to a mechanic shop as I could not remove the spark plug with a screw extractor and didn’t want to force and damage the cylinder head.
Long story, but went to 2 shop and both mentioned they need to complete remove the engine, disassemble the head to work on the removal of the broken spark.
Left my pwc at the shop and the broken spark plug was successfully removed but I am starting to have valve issues.
1. After assembly all back again, in the shop while testing, the engine failed and had valve 2 bent (not the the cylinder I had a broken spark plug with)
2. Valve was replaced for a new OEM, any tested according to shop. I went for a test drive and after 15 minutes engine stopped. I had issues with a hose that was disconnect from the cooling return below engine as it did not had the retainer well set. All tough I had a lot of water accumulation inside the engine compartment, I could check water was not the reason the engine stop as it did not enter the air intake
3. Drop again at the mechanic shop and the cylinder head was removed again and was found again issues with valve on cylinder 2. This time a broken retainer. Valve was still held in place by half of the retainer and the other half fortunately did not fell inside cylinder. A new retainer was set and went for a new test drive.
4. Ran again for 15 minutes, low rpm’s and starting to cruise. Close to 4800 rpm’s again engine stopped. No signs of power loss, it just stop right away. I suspect again same issues. Have to drop again to the mechanic to have a look.

I do suspect the shop is not synchronizing correctly, causing the issues on valve 2. I am not aware on how difficult is to perform this and also if a small bad adjustment can only damage one valve. I cannot see other reasons apart from this as the engine was running perfectly fine before the mechanic shop intervention.
Any of you can give me some light on what possible problems it could be other than a poor sync?
Ps: The funny part is that now each time they need to remove the head is not necessary anymore to remove the whole engine.

Thanks
You definitely need to find a new mechanic. This should have been an easy fix from the start for a qualified mechanic.
Every time that crap shop touches it you are risking more damage.
Ask for a refund or partial refund or just cut your losses and run away. This is not something you wantvto tackle unless you have the tools and knowledge
Where are you located
 
You definitely need to find a new mechanic. This should have been an easy fix from the start for a qualified mechanic.
Every time that crap shop touches it you are risking more damage.
Ask for a refund or partial refund or just cut your losses and run away. This is not something you wantvto tackle unless you have the tools and knowledge
Where are you located

Hi all. New to the forum and need some advice.
I own a vx deluxe 2021 with around 170 hours. Never had any mechanical issue and keep it very clean with all recommended services. During my last 50 hour service I unfortunately break the spark plug on cylinder 1. Unfortunately learn after that we should use anti seize grease on them, not advertise on manuals. Had to bring to a mechanic shop as I could not remove the spark plug with a screw extractor and didn’t want to force and damage the cylinder head.
Long story, but went to 2 shop and both mentioned they need to complete remove the engine, disassemble the head to work on the removal of the broken spark.
Left my pwc at the shop and the broken spark plug was successfully removed but I am starting to have valve issues.
1. After assembly all back again, in the shop while testing, the engine failed and had valve 2 bent (not the the cylinder I had a broken spark plug with)
2. Valve was replaced for a new OEM, any tested according to shop. I went for a test drive and after 15 minutes engine stopped. I had issues with a hose that was disconnect from the cooling return below engine as it did not had the retainer well set. All tough I had a lot of water accumulation inside the engine compartment, I could check water was not the reason the engine stop as it did not enter the air intake
3. Drop again at the mechanic shop and the cylinder head was removed again and was found again issues with valve on cylinder 2. This time a broken retainer. Valve was still held in place by half of the retainer and the other half fortunately did not fell inside cylinder. A new retainer was set and went for a new test drive.
4. Ran again for 15 minutes, low rpm’s and starting to cruise. Close to 4800 rpm’s again engine stopped. No signs of power loss, it just stop right away. I suspect again same issues. Have to drop again to the mechanic to have a look.

I do suspect the shop is not timing it correctly, causing the issues on valve 2. I am not aware on how difficult is to perform this and also if a small bad adjustment can only damage one valve. I cannot see other reasons apart from this as the engine was running perfectly fine before the mechanic shop intervention.
Any of you can give me some light on what possible problems it could be other than a poor chain timing ?
Ps: The funny part is that now each time they need to remove the head is not necessary anymore to remove the whole engine.

Thanks



I had a similar experience but no damage occurred. He swapped cams during assembly.
A whole engine may be your ultimate outcome.
Your suspicions are correct and it has been mentioned our engines are interference engines

#Dbeelen who is paying for their catastrophic mistake? I would ask for refund and run
May be someone here in your area can help you as #Neutron mentioned
 
You definitely need to find a new mechanic. This should have been an easy fix from the start for a qualified mechanic.
Every time that crap shop touches it you are risking more damage.
Ask for a refund or partial refund or just cut your losses and run away. This is not something you wantvto tackle unless you have the tools and knowledge
Where are you located
Yes agree. At least the shop is acknowledging the issue and trying to fix the issue at their cost. But not the result I was expecting from a shop with over 30 years of experience. I am located in the Houston area.
 
Little update, now I have a broken valve on cylinder 3. Plus need to change piston and rework the cylinders head as the broken valve damage them. It is clear that valve bent and broken by touching the piston confirming my suspicions that the timing is not right set. He swear that it is correct and also does not understand wtf is going on. This time he is sending the head to be rebuilt at SBT shop. Will remove engine again to change piston and inspect the bore. At this point getting the ski out will be more complicated than ever, will have to give another shot with them. Again he is taking all the extra cost and apologize for the mistakes. Another 2 or 3 weeks to have news.
 
Little update, now I have a broken valve on cylinder 3. Plus need to change piston and rework the cylinders head as the broken valve damage them. It is clear that valve bent and broken by touching the piston confirming my suspicions that the timing is not right set. He swear that it is correct and also does not understand wtf is going on. This time he is sending the head to be rebuilt at SBT shop. Will remove engine again to change piston and inspect the bore. At this point getting the ski out will be more complicated than ever, will have to give another shot with them. Again he is taking all the extra cost and apologize for the mistakes. Another 2 or 3 weeks to have news.

@Dbeelen
Cost of new ~$1300 #2 for the 3yl

Sbt exchange $1300 but it has a 4cyl

I needed a new one for my cracked one. Would mix water with oil. It was during Covid and had to wait when it came from Japan.
Personally I would want OEM vs anything SBT. I wouldn't ask for anything less. May be offer to pay a little more for the new one and hope it runs new.

A broken plug has turned into a loss of a working ski. A positive is they are trying to fix it and make it right but for how long.....
 
Last edited:
Little update, now I have a broken valve on cylinder 3. Plus need to change piston and rework the cylinders head as the broken valve damage them. It is clear that valve bent and broken by touching the piston confirming my suspicions that the timing is not right set. He swear that it is correct and also does not understand wtf is going on. This time he is sending the head to be rebuilt at SBT shop. Will remove engine again to change piston and inspect the bore. At this point getting the ski out will be more complicated than ever, will have to give another shot with them. Again he is taking all the extra cost and apologize for the mistakes. Another 2 or 3 weeks to have news.
Well, how’d it all work out?
 
Well. Got my jet back. They finally make it right and perform a long test for couple of days before returning to me. So far no issues and jet is running fine. Did not put a lot of hours on it yet but seems to be right now. Thanks
Awesome!
 
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