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What did you do to your boat today?

I wish it did that. For some reason, it just doesn't. Maybe it's because I'm using an adaptor from a 4-pin connection? My towing vehicle is a 2011 Toyota Highlander Hybrid.

If there's a way to do this automatically I'd be all for it.


Correct, one of the 3 pins you're losing is reverse.

Power, reverse and brake controller are on the 7. You just have ground, tails, left and right.
 
The fix seems like more of a PITA than just using the magnetic lockout, especially since I shouldn't be towing that often from my wet slip.

Also found out I can self-fuel up at my marina (the only one on the lake where I can do that) so I don't need to pull the boat to find 92 octane!
 
and....how do they sound?
 
Had the boat out with 6 people yesterday - two adults, two teens, two middle school kids. I definitely noticed that it wasn't as peppy on acceleration, which seems expected. It also seemed to cavitate just a bit on hard acceleration from low speeds. Nothing terrible, but felt a little bit of slipping so I modulated the throttle. I only took it up to 30-35 or so and it had no trouble getting there, but should I be concerned at all?

Boat has about 145 hours on it - will I need to be checking/replacing the impeller or wear ring next season, for example?

cruising.png
 
Had the boat out with 6 people yesterday - two adults, two teens, two middle school kids. I definitely noticed that it wasn't as peppy on acceleration, which seems expected. It also seemed to cavitate just a bit on hard acceleration from low speeds. Nothing terrible, but felt a little bit of slipping so I modulated the throttle. I only took it up to 30-35 or so and it had no trouble getting there, but should I be concerned at all?

Boat has about 145 hours on it - will I need to be checking/replacing the impeller or wear ring next season, for example?

View attachment 221903
This sounds like common performance when loaded down.
 
Had the boat out with 6 people yesterday - two adults, two teens, two middle school kids. I definitely noticed that it wasn't as peppy on acceleration, which seems expected. It also seemed to cavitate just a bit on hard acceleration from low speeds. Nothing terrible, but felt a little bit of slipping so I modulated the throttle. I only took it up to 30-35 or so and it had no trouble getting there, but should I be concerned at all?

Boat has about 145 hours on it - will I need to be checking/replacing the impeller or wear ring next season, for example?

Pay closer attention and note who and where everyone is positioned. Two up front in the bow on a choppy-ish day would seem to be enough to raise the transom enough to have the jets spitting out into the air if you hit a swell when trying to take off. External conditions can be the complete reason for some things, so noting those is often just as important as the sounds you're hearing. The natural inclination is to "WTF" the situation, but you were still moving, so mental notes on what your conditions were in can give you clues. Trying to repeat it under those conditions will show you if your hunch was right.
 
Added a grill. Works fantastic
 

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Changed the oil on the lift in the slip. NBD i didn’t realize that it would prompt me for oil change at 60 hours (50 hours since 10 hour service). I thought next service was at 100 but Connext set me straight. Is this new?
@Edge540je our first grill meal was brats too. Hit the spot with a cold brew.
Cheers
 
Went out last night on the boat and out of the blue the steering was frozen. Last week I checked the steering and grabbed the nozzles and moved them side to side with ease.
Had two problems, the oem tie rod to the A/K was frozen at each ball socket. Freed up that no problem. And the port steering cable is starting to bind but of course with the rack and pinion design you have to replace the whole assembly.
I did lube it and got it pretty free, but gonna replace it because you can hear it rubbing and it isn't 100% right
20240623_141342.jpg20240623_141257.jpg
 
Went out last night on the boat and out of the blue the steering was frozen. Last week I checked the steering and grabbed the nozzles and moved them side to side with ease.
Had two problems, the oem tie rod to the A/K was frozen at each ball socket. Freed up that no problem. And the port steering cable is starting to bind but of course with the rack and pinion design you have to replace the whole assembly.
I did lube it and got it pretty free, but gonna replace it because you can hear it rubbing and it isn't 100% right
View attachment 222337View attachment 222338

Order two of those assemblies, I'll be right over. I don't need it, I just wanna have it, and also visit the Garage-Mahal ?
 
Got steering cables assembly out today. Since it is one unit I tied rope to each end and removed any zip tires took off fuel tank cover and pulled it out from the helm access door. Went better than expected. New cables will be in by Wednesday so not much down time
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Got steering cables assembly out today. Since it is one unit I tied rope to each end and removed any zip tires took off fuel tank cover and pulled it out from the helm access door. Went better than expected. New cables will be in by Wednesday so not much down time
View attachment 222389View attachment 222390View attachment 222391View attachment 222392

Am I looking at that correctly, and the teeth seem to be ground down and/or packed with something that may have been causing your issues? Did you have any issues with removing the bolts for the fuel tank hatch?
 
Am I looking at that correctly, and the teeth seem to be ground down and/or packed with something that may have been causing your issues? Did you have any issues with removing the bolts for the fuel tank hatch?
Nope the gear teeth are just packed with grease. The port cable is stiff at the other end.
The tank hatch came off no problem. Had it off before and applied waterproof grease on threads before reinstalled
 
Steering cable assembly came in late yesterday to I finished the boat this morning. Everything went smooth, I already had Everything cleaned an ready to reassemble. Found the perfect tool for the 22mm nut for the cable since it's recessed in its cavity. It's a automotive O2 sensor socket. Works like a dream.
Side note that the factory junk clear silicone isn't doing much sealing these cables. The stuff falls off with ease.
Everything is adjusted perfectly with the nozzles and the AK.
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Finally got my 5 year Mother-May-I permission slip thru Virginia/EPA/Corps of Engineers, to cut the hydrilla around the dock..... we will see how long the "Grass cut" is good for. Contracted company with underwater hedge trimmer boat(best way to describe it) will be here Tuesday to cut and remove hydrilla around dock and cut me a weed free path to the boat channel. This weed barrier behind the boat currently makes for a 15 minute process to use the trolling motor to get past the weed line before firing up the motors. Without a trolling motor it wouldn't happen lol...... cant even get the jet ski out this year as the weeds didn't die out during the winter this year. Last two pictures were from Apr of this year.....First one is from last month at end of May installing trim tabs...

View attachment 222508

Tree TImes aquatic weed cutter-harvester machine.png

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