Yamaha 1.8L Upgraded intake filters

[CapitanTormenta]

So after I started having trouble with my port side engine not revving past 6,000 Rpm's, I immediately changed the spark plugs however it didn't correct the situation. I researched a bit and found a member ( I forgot who ) that had a similar issue and solved it by replacing his air box filter. I opened my air box on the port side engine and noticed it was bunching up. I ran it for a few mins on the water without a filter to see if a bad filter was the problem and it sure was. Instead of purchasing new airbox filters which are wayy over priced, I went to my local parts store and got 2 reusable / washable cone filter which I mated to the throttle body boot with a 3 inch diameter pipe. I completed both intakes for about 55 bucks and it took just under 30 mins. Tell me what you guys think. It runs at about 77-7800 Rpms at Wot and does a consistent 51-54 Mph depending on the water conditions for the day. The filters are "Spectre" brand. Enjoy.

 

[CapitanTormenta]

Update: I removed rubber coupler and attached intake filter directly to throttle body. Also added some breather filters to the crank case ventilation tube.

 

[Johnboat]

I think its awsome. I ran a spectre filter on a 06 Ram 2500 for years.

 

[canefan75]

Update: I removed rubber coupler and attached intake filter directly to throttle body. Also added some breather filters to the crank case ventilation tube.

Could you share the model number or part numbers for the air filter and where you bought it? Thanks!!

 

[Dixemon]

What kind of speeds and rpms did you have before you started having problems? say with a new pleated filter. I like the idea of what you have done, just was curious about performance gains over stock "new filter".

 

[swatski]

my 0.02
I have done this, too, twice. And then each time I went back to reinstall the factory boxes... lol.
The thing is, removing the ribbons in the 1.8s has some merit - usually a solid gain of 150-200 RPM on top, everything else being the same. The filter mod though, assuming the factory filter is in perfect shape, the difference is barely discernible running with or without; it may register -/+50 RPM at the most.

The issue though is engine noise - those large yamaha filter boxes actually muffle engine noise quite well.
I ended up running with the "snorkels" and the ribbons removed, but the factory filter boxes are back in.

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[Bogus]

So after I started having trouble with my port side engine not revving past 6,000 Rpm's, I immediately changed the spark plugs however it didn't correct the situation. I researched a bit and found a member ( I forgot who ) that had a similar issue and solved it by replacing his air box filter. I opened my air box on the port side engine and noticed it was bunching up. I ran it for a few mins on the water without a filter to see if a bad filter was the problem and it sure was. Instead of purchasing new airbox filters which are wayy over priced, I went to my local parts store and got 2 reusable / washable cone filter which I mated to the throttle body boot with a 3 inch diameter pipe. I completed both intakes for about 55 bucks and it took just under 30 mins. Tell me what you guys think. It runs at about 77-7800 Rpms at Wot and does a consistent 51-54 Mph depending on the water conditions for the day. The filters are "Spectre" brand. Enjoy.

If you are boating in the sea or in the ocean. The wave could Come inside the boat and then go inside engine. This could cause engine stop. And would be a fault in huge wave sea. I wouldnt go for this cause I don't want my engines to shut off during storm.

 

[swatski]

If you are boating in the sea or in the ocean. The wave could Come inside the boat and then go inside engine. This could cause engine stop. And would be a fault in huge wave sea. I wouldnt go for this cause I don't want my engines to shut off during storm.

It is a valid concern. However, our boats can be literally submarined without any fear of getting water inside engine compartments - provided properly functioning scupper and an operator who knows to keep the bow up to drain water off of the self bailing deck.
Getting a wave over the bow does not risk hydrolocking the engines with or without factory air filter box.
Just ask @MrMoose, lol, I think has some footage from a Bimini run taking big wave over the bow. I don't have any pics myself but have had as much as 5-6" of water in the cockpit in big head seas or hitting a big wake... No issue, as long as you keep on those throttles and the scupper is working as it should.

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[Bogus]

It is a valid concern. However, our boats can be literally submarined without any fear of getting water inside engine compartments - provided properly functioning scupper and an operator who knows to keep the bow up to drain water off of the self bailing deck.
Getting a wave over the bow does not risk hydrolocking the engines with or without factory air filter box.
Just ask @MrMoose, lol, I think has some footage from a Bimini run taking big wave over the bow. I don't have any pics myself but have had as much as 5-6" of water in the cockpit in big head seas or hitting a big wake... No issue, as long as you keep on those throttles and the scupper is working as it should.

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I had a wave inside the boat. The water went to the engine as well, and the way
CapitanTormenta
located his air filters its strait the way where water was going inside the compartment if you have water above your ancle in the boat. The filters will take water on them and could cause engine stop.
As for me it was a windy day on the sea with big wind waves, we were going OK but then suddenly fishermans net appeared in front of the boat this cause me to stop immediatly while the bow went down and caught a wave.

 

[swatski]

I had a wave inside the boat. The water went to the engine as well, and the way
CapitanTormenta
located his air filters its strait the way where water was going inside the compartment if you have water above your ancle in the boat. The filters will take water on them and could cause engine stop.
As for me it was a windy day on the sea with big wind waves, we were going OK but then suddenly fishermans net appeared in front of the boat this cause me to stop immediatly while the bow went down and caught a wave.

Sounds like a classic "submarine move". Keeping on the throttles and the bow up lets the water escape thorught he scupper in the back of the self bailing deck, provided the scupper is functional, that's the idea. Works great BTW.

I'm not sure how would aftermarket filter increase the risk of water ingress into the engines, I ran with pod filters installed for a while, went back to the OEM setup as I did not like the noise and any power benefit was minimal at best.
Just like factory filters, the air intakes with pods sit about a foot above the engine bay floor.


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[swatski]

I will also point out, installing a secondary bilge pump in our boats in the actual bilge under stern platform is a very good idea.
In the event of water ingress into the bilge/engine bay which should never happen through the engine hatch but it can happen if the cleanout plugs blow (hence EZ locks were invented by @Cobra Jet Steering LLC to keep the plugs with dougs, not screw thread, from blowing out) - the engine bay can fill with water quickly while running fast on plane, it can be a very dangerous situation, by the time the boat slows down and bogs down it may be too late, keeping the bow up and the bilge pumps running is the only hope there, but the plugs can not be reset without turning the engines off...
But I digress...

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[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I believe the after market filter sits a lot lower than the original air cleaner box thus it would suck in water sooner, what I did was get some starboard and cut the shape of the original air cleaner element making about a 3/4 inch wide frame that would fit in place of the regular filter then I used food grade stainless steel screen and a butter knife with the end bend at an angle , I placed The stainless screen over the frame and heated the knife with a torch then I pressed the knife blade on to the stainless to melt it into the starboard once I completely melted it around the entire edge I carefully trimmed it and installed this filter in place of the original one . I noticed a better and faster MID range response and I still use it years later.

 

[Bogus]

Also the engines hood is not germetical, the water is going throu and right on those air filters/ I/m talking about when you have higher then ancle water inside cabin. at least mine is not germetical/ While swatski has some rubber under the hood

 

[MillsyMO]

So after I started having trouble with my port side engine not revving past 6,000 Rpm's, I immediately changed the spark plugs however it didn't correct the situation. I researched a bit and found a member ( I forgot who ) that had a similar issue and solved it by replacing his air box filter. I opened my air box on the port side engine and noticed it was bunching up. I ran it for a few mins on the water without a filter to see if a bad filter was the problem and it sure was. Instead of purchasing new airbox filters which are wayy over priced, I went to my local parts store and got 2 reusable / washable cone filter which I mated to the throttle body boot with a 3 inch diameter pipe. I completed both intakes for about 55 bucks and it took just under 30 mins. Tell me what you guys think. It runs at about 77-7800 Rpms at Wot and does a consistent 51-54 Mph depending on the water conditions for the day. The filters are "Spectre" brand. Enjoy.

I know this is an old thread but what was the opinion on the noise from the new filters? I’m considering doing this same mod on my new AR250 but stumbled upon this thread. I don’t mind some intake noise but don’t want something that’s overly loud and obnoxious. Thanks for any input.

 

[Jrestivo]

Wha

So after I started having trouble with my port side engine not revving past 6,000 Rpm's, I immediately changed the spark plugs however it didn't correct the situation. I researched a bit and found a member ( I forgot who ) that had a similar issue and solved it by replacing his air box filter. I opened my air box on the port side engine and noticed it was bunching up. I ran it for a few mins on the water without a filter to see if a bad filter was the problem and it sure was. Instead of purchasing new airbox filters which are wayy over priced, I went to my local parts store and got 2 reusable / washable cone filter which I mated to the throttle body boot with a 3 inch diameter pipe. I completed both intakes for about 55 bucks and it took just under 30 mins. Tell me what you guys think. It runs at about 77-7800 Rpms at Wot and does a consistent 51-54 Mph depending on the water conditions for the day. The filters are "Spectre" brand. Enjoy.

What are the part numbers you use? Great Idea BTW I am going to do it next week.

 

[212s]

I know this is an old thread but what was the opinion on the noise from the new filters? I’m considering doing this same mod on my new AR250 but stumbled upon this thread. I don’t mind some intake noise but don’t want something that’s overly loud and obnoxious. Thanks for any input.

From what I understand, the stock filters are actually fairly non-restrictive so mods are not really necessary. They're main purpose is to keep small bugs like mosquitoes and midges, and other small debris, out of the intake system. Remember the engines and filters are inside an enclosed compartment with only air vents under the seats to suck in air. The engine compartments normally remain quite dirt free - mine is virtually spotless and I've never had to clean it in 3 years of boating. Same goes for previous boats - many simply had spark arrestors and no real filters on the intake. It's not a dusty road we're driving on.

 

[SurfSD]

What's the "ribbon mod"?
Thanks

 

[MillsyMO]

What's the "ribbon mod"?
Thanks

YouTube has some videos to delete the ribbon. It’s a plastic round breather piece in the intake that restricts air flow.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

From what I understand, the stock filters are actually fairly non-restrictive so mods are not really necessary. They're main purpose is to keep small bugs like mosquitoes and midges, and other small debris, out of the intake system. Remember the engines and filters are inside an enclosed compartment with only air vents under the seats to suck in air. The engine compartments normally remain quite dirt free - mine is virtually spotless and I've never had to clean it in 3 years of boating. Same goes for previous boats - many simply had spark arrestors and no real filters on the intake. It's not a dusty road we're driving on.

I did see an advantage by going to the RIVA drop in K&N style filter. I usually operate my boat at 5000’ above MSL with density altitudes as high as 9000’ with a resulting 27% horsepower loss so every bit of air that I can get into the engines is helpful. Rated rpm for boats TR-1 engines is 8000 roms and I usually saw about 7400 rpm’s with the oem filters.

Before purchasing the RIVA filters I made back to back 2 mile runs across my lake, one run in each direction, the first with the oem filters in place, then I removed the filters altogether. I picked up 150-200 rpm’s in each direction with a small increase in speed.

After I installed the RIVA filters I tested them by repeating the same test except this time I tested the oem filters, no filters and then the RIVA filters. the results were the same with the oem filters vs no filters, 150-200 rpm gain, and the RIVA filters were the same as the no filters runs.

The RIVA filters are roughly $70 each, I think they’re worth it, but I’m also a bit of an edge case.

Another member here put a pressure differential device across oem filters and saw zero differential.

Also by getting rid of the oem filter housing you lose the highest intake of air in the engine bay. if you do happen to get water in the engine bay with just a straight cone filter in place you risk catastrophic engine failure as @Bogus mentions above.

I talked to one of the performance shops about the ribbon delete and they told me there would be zero gain by just deleting the ribbon.

The OP of this thread stated that the oem air filter was the issue, he said it was bunching up, what made it bunch up? Was it dirty? Oil fouled ? The point is the oem air filter did its job and just needed replacing. Another point is that if you are getting rated maximum rpm’s out of your engine there’s no point to deleting the ribbon, the ribbon itself is a safety device, also know as a backfire device, to prevent a fire.

Edit: I should have mentioned this before, I had a set of Solas impellers pitched for my altitude by Impros. This took a few tries to test the rpms just right, I’m fussy about such things. Now I’m at roughly 7600 rpms at my 5000’ lake, and when I drop down to the 3200’ lake I’m right at 8000 rpms. I know that when I go over to Lake Oahe at 1200’ I will be under propped, and I could just toss the oem impellers back in for that if I needed / wanted to. But, I think I arrived at the best compromise that I can given my various altitude boating locations.

 

[bubbasuwannee]

I did see an advantage by going to the RIVA drop in K&N style filter. I usually operate my boat at 5000’ above MSL with density altitudes as high as 9000’ with a resulting 27% horsepower loss so every bit of air that I can get into the engines is helpful. Rated rpm for boats TR-1 engines is 8000 roms and I usually saw about 7400 rpm’s with the oem filters.

Before purchasing the RIVA filters I made back to back 2 mile runs across my lake, one run in each direction, the first with the oem filters in place, then I removed the filters altogether. I picked up 150-200 rpm’s in each direction with a small increase in speed.

After I installed the RIVA filters I tested them by repeating the same test except this time I tested the oem filters, no filters and then the RIVA filters. the results were the same with the oem filters vs no filters, 150-200 rpm gain, and the RIVA filters were the same as the no filters runs.

The RIVA filters are roughly $70 each, I think they’re worth it, but I’m also a bit of an edge case.

Another member here put a pressure differential device across oem filters and saw zero differential.

Also by getting rid of the oem filter housing you lose the highest intake of air in the engine bay. if you do happen to get water in the engine bay with just a straight cone filter in place you risk catastrophic engine failure as @Bogus mentions above.

I talked to one of the performance shops about the ribbon delete and they told me there would be zero gain by just deleting the ribbon.

The OP of this thread stated that the oem air filter was the issue, he said it was bunching up, what made it bunch up? Was it dirty? Oil fouled ? The point is the oem air filter did its job and just needed replacing. Another point is that if you are getting rated maximum rpm’s out of your engine there’s no point to deleting the ribbon, the ribbon itself is a safety device, also know as a backfire device, to prevent a fire.

Might try a Riva filter on mine. They're like $128 vs. $80 for the oem filter. I know the oil used on K&N style filters can cause sensor issues. My Dad when he was still here, a 30+ year Ford mechanic saw issues with these.