Operating in fresh water. Elevation is only ~470ft. Temps in the area are hot but typical for this time of year at 110degf real feel around the 95degf mark. Wide open is like 8k rpm.
Okay that’s good news on your altitude and you’re getting close to full rpm. The engines are perky at low altitude. I usually operate at 5000’ above msl ( mean sea level) and when it’s hot, 90-95° my density altitude is 8000-9000’ and I get 25-30% hp loss, when I boat at 500-600’ there is a big difference in power.
Before you go out next time pull your air filters and make sure your air boxes are clean, then put the air filters back in. After you get on the water, run around on the boat for a while, then make a wide open run for at least a couple minutes and note the engine rpm. Stop, turn off the engines and quickly pull the air filter elements and make another run at WFO. Do it again at the hottest part of the day. It’s normal once the engines are heat soaked and you stop for a few mins for them to take a bit to come back up to full rpm after you start running again.
If you see an increase in rpm you’d benefit from RIVA K&N style air filters, as they are the same as running without paper elements. I picked up 150-200 rpm with those on my boat.
I also suggest using your connext screen at look at the gallons per hour, gph, tab. When you make your fist run and it’s cool(er) out you will see higher gph, as the day heats up the gph will drop at WFO due to the ECU pulling the fuel back as the air gets hotter and less dense. Note the gph differences when you are doing your runs with and without paper air filter elements.
Make sure you set the oil level correctly per the manual, be sure and screw the dipstick back in fully when you check the oil. As long as it’s between the L and F marks you’re good.
To track and somewhat follow the path of the oil, this makes sense.
Most everyone (myself included) will apply their experiences with cars, to these motors, unwittingly and/or unknowingly causing problems that don't seem to track with "typical" oil change procedure.
This also seems to explain the "why" of just how overfilling cuts speed. I never understood why this would be the case, when it didn't happen to cars with the same drastic effects, I just knew I couldn't argue with the noticeable loss of speed if the oil was high for me.
Forget the engine tunes, they won’t help to any significant degree. The “big gains” you read about are in the personal watercraft not the boats.
Use that money, approximately $1500, for fuel and snacks, or a Magma bbq. Speaking of fuel, make sure you use 86 or 87 octane fuel. Running higher octane than required hurts performance, and drains more money out of your wallet. If non ethanol fuel is available run that but only if you can get the 87 octane fuel, I mix 85 and 91 non ethanol fuel in the correct proportions to get 86 which is what is called for in the manual. If all you can get is ethanol laced fuel be sure to use Star Tron additive religiously to avoid any ethanol related issues.
Some people have pulled the ribbons or flame arrestors out of their intake manifolds, one report I know of the guy said he picked up 250-300 rpm. I have a set of ribbon delete kits that I’ll be installing later this summer. My plan there is to use a manometer and check inches of water restriction before and after the ribbons are pulled to see what difference there is.
BUT! Just bear in mind that these are a USCG required devices, not that you’re going to get a safety inspection and they’re going to check, just wanted to have full disclosure.
These things are only going to be apparent at WFO.. most of the time you’re not at WFO… but the added punch is nice when getting up on plane or throwing the boat around.
Go enjoy your boat and put as many hours on it as you can! Oh, and get a service manual.
