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210 FSH steering cable replacement

FSH 210 Sport

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Im not sure i follow. I power flush with a hose filled with corrosion x from the transom using an air compressor. I wrap a trash bag around the steering gearbox to catch all the material coming out the other end. with the boat jacked up, i often pull the little black boots down from the cables at the transom to let any trapped water to escape. does that make sense?
Totally makes sense! What type of hose do you slip over the end of the cable? I’m assuming that is what you do, with the hose already filled withe corrosion X?
 

lazergeek

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Totally makes sense! What type of hose do you slip over the end of the cable? I’m assuming that is what you do, with the hose already filled withe corrosion X?
1/2" ID hose, remove connectors from the nozzles, then remove the plastic and rubber gaskets and push the hose all the way back to the transom and clamp it. Then fill the hose with your lube, then add fitting to apply compressed air. I run mine at 80-90psi as Im not patient. This thread covers it.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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1/2" ID hose, remove connectors from the nozzles, then remove the plastic and rubber gaskets and push the hose all the way back to the transom and clamp it. Then fill the hose with your lube, then add fitting to apply compressed air. I run mine at 80-90psi as Im not patient. This thread covers it.
Thank you for the link!
Do you or @Dixemon remove the steering cables from the steering wheel drive mechanism when pushing the oil up there? If not I assume you did not have any debris cause issues with the gear drive ?
 

lazergeek

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I did the first time when I was trying to push gear oil, when I repeated a week later with PB Blater I did not. My starboard side was still stiff after the gear oil which was why i triied the penetrading oil which did the trick. Just get a drawstring trashbag to wrap around to catch anything that make it to the helm.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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I did the first time when I was trying to push gear oil, when I repeated a week later with PB Blater I did not. My starboard side was still stiff after the gear oil which was why i triied the penetrading oil which did the trick. Just get a drawstring trashbag to wrap around to catch anything that make it to the helm.
Thank you !
 

Ericd

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Is SBT the supplier of steering cables to Yammy?
 

Dixemon

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I did the first time when I was trying to push gear oil, when I repeated a week later with PB Blater I did not. My starboard side was still stiff after the gear oil which was why i triied the penetrading oil which did the trick. Just get a drawstring trashbag to wrap around to catch anything that make it to the helm.
To add to what lazergeek suggested. After your done with the trash bag, I keep a plastic ziplock filled with absorbant mat zip tied to the steering gearbox. It will continue to leak out when your on the water, the wave action, hull attitude and turns will dislodge more of the lubrication. You don't want that spilling all over. Also, running that tube all the way to the transom is KEY!!, it will otherwise leak out around that joint and you wont get penetration all the way to the helm. 65-70 psi min or you'll be there forever...before it starts coming out the other end. i do not remove the steering cables from the steering rack, or the bucket cables from the throttle control assembly.
 

lazergeek

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Is SBT the supplier of steering cables to Yammy?
No SBT is Aftermarket. I believe cables are made by Dometic SeaStar
 

Liveto99

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2018 never had a problem till it sat for 2 years without moving it. Just when to prep boat and it’s locked up. Used deep creep spray when it’s pulled from the water and turned it once in a while. I think no use screws it.
 

Floridaman79

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Well this is a timely thread. 2020 210 FSH which gets routine use. Well it has been sitting for the last 2 months while getting my daughter ready for college. Brought it home to load up for an outing and steering was locked up. Not completely frozen but very stiff. Used a hose and compressor to push gear oil into it and it is better but long story short I am just going to replace the cables. So just ordered the cables. Sound like I need to pick up a 7/8" O2 sensor socket, anything else?

Also, my service manual doesnt actually have steering cable replacement but I do see how the steering cable is conncted to the steering helm (8), but what I dont see is how to center it up. Should the wheel be centered, turned one way or the other, or will it just be obvious when the steering cable is disconnected from the helm? Also, do you guys use 5200 sealant instead of the silicon blob that yamaha uses at the transom penetration?
20230704_122645.jpg
 

Liveto99

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At this point, I would advise removing a muffler in the center I did not, and I believe it took me longer because I did not.IMG_3758.jpeg
 

Liveto99

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7/8” wrench and o2 socket fit the nuts on the transom that hold the cable. Remove the nut on the outside. Remove the silicone from the inside.IMG_3760.jpegIMG_2590.jpegIMG_2598.jpegIMG_2599.jpeg
 

Liveto99

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Pull the assembly out watch how it was run so you can get the new one on the same place roughly. IMG_2651.jpegIMG_2635.jpegIMG_2625.jpegIMG_2626.jpeg
 

Liveto99

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I got jammed up at this point. The port side would not come out of the transom. complete road block I struggled for 2 hours being nice so I did not f up the boat. Finally I put a crow bar against it and drove it through 🤷🏻‍♂️ it worked out fine. It is held on a thick aluminum housing that holds the pump.
Clean the holes out of silicone and other stuff I used a fitting brush in a drill and denatured alcohol.
 

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Liveto99

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Run the new cables and secure in the transom holes with a APPROPRIATE substance? Use what you will. I used an approved through hull adhesive. A helper at this point is recommended. IMG_2695.jpegIMG_2702.jpegIMG_2701.jpegIMG_2696.jpeg
 
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