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No idea on the size, but this is the wrench I bought, and it fits with a little bit to spare. Not quite 68mm, best I can do is guesstimate about 2". At the time I bought that, nobody really had a good answer either, so the cheap adjustable wrench was the route I took. Turns out to be handy if you have to ever remove the nut on your kitchen sink strainer as well, so I've gotten 4 uses out of it.
So I hope this isn't a stupid question/comment, but I have short arms (32 sleeve length)! I really don't think I'll be able to reach it!
I know some have said that it's a PITA, but will I actually be able to do it? I know that I'll need an assistant.
@biilltex2000 here's that pic I promised. It's so close, and within reach, my arm is bent close to a 45° to fit my new scupper hose onto the new scupper valve. I did NOT go with the Attwood everyone is using, I went with this shorter model so that the bend would be slightly more gradual, as seen in the second pic
@biilltex2000 here's that pic I promised. It's so close, and within reach, my arm is bent close to a 45° to fit my new scupper hose onto the new scupper valve. I did NOT go with the Attwood everyone is using, I went with a shorter version so that the bend would be slightly more gradual, as seen in the second pic
@biilltex2000 here's that pic I promised. It's so close, and within reach, my arm is bent close to a 45° to fit my new scupper hose onto the new scupper valve. I did NOT go with the Attwood everyone is using, I went with a shorter version so that the bend would be slightly more gradual, as seen in the second pic
I went with attwood and it worked, but a shorter one like @drewkaree is showing here I think for me would have been a better choice as the attwood in my 242 was too long for the existing hose (factory) to fit so I ended up cutting about 3/4" off of the hose to get it on the longer attwood scupper valve. Also my 242 doesn't have as much room as above pics on a AR 21(?) shows. But same general location and solution. I used 4200 to seal it btw.
Good information. I haven't installed mine yet. I'm going to shorten my scupper valve before I install it. I'll make it the same length as the original.
Good information. I haven't installed mine yet. I'm going to shorten my scupper valve before I install it. I'll make it the same length as the original.
Don't take my measurements for gospel since you are going to be shortening it, don't want to make it too short!
Your OEM scupper should be about an inch shorter than the Attwood. The replacement I chose is about 3" total length, about an inch shorter than the OEM plastic one
Don't take my measurements for gospel since you are going to be shortening it, don't want to make it too short!
Your OEM scupper should be about an inch shorter than the Attwood. The replacement I chose is about 3" total length, about an inch shorter than the OEM plastic one
@biilltex2000 here's that pic I promised. It's so close, and within reach, my arm is bent close to a 45° to fit my new scupper hose onto the new scupper valve. I did NOT go with the Attwood everyone is using, I went with this shorter model so that the bend would be slightly more gradual, as seen in the second pic
Thank you drewkaree , but my scupper is in the old location waaaaaaaay below the waterline! I found this link to pics of an install on the older boats in case it helps anyone.
I replaced my scupper drain a few years ago because the original plastic one broke and almost sunk me. Got it out of the water and I could push it in to the transom. Went to the metal one like the pic but not an Attwood. It’s a pain to change but removing the water boxes, exhaust hose to make room for arms is the way to go.
Hello guys, I'm a frequents reader but an infrequent poster. This forum have helped me few times already so reaching out to see if other have come across this and could point me in the right direction. I'm currently in the process of replacing my scupper on the 2007 AR230. I bought the recommended Attwood 66553-3 Stainless Steel Scupper. After much effort clearing space moving the water box exhaust out of the way I encountered the same challenges other have described for access and reach. Aside from these challenges I made it to point where I have installed the valve but noticed the NEW Attwood scupper does not sit flush against the outside of the transom. AR230 have a recessed area where these scuppers are installed. See pictures below.
Yellow highlight shows how much of a gap there between the seated scupper and the transom despite having a 1/8 thick neoprene gasket. Before I just plaster the gap with Marine 3M 5200, I wanted to see if other had experience the same and how to overcome it. From where I'm now i see:
A.) file the scupper metal to reduced overall diameter and make fit on the transom recess.
B.) Trim the hull with a Dremell tool to make room for the scupper (hate this option)
C.) Get a more suited scupper for the AR230
View from the inside of the transom show metal nut being already tight as much as I think I should with a 62mm wrench. Noticed i have placed a silicone gasket between the nut and the hull. Once I'm done I would apply a coat of 3M 5200 for assurance.
First option I would go with is buy the right product. (If you intend to cut down a tree don't buy a hammer and then sharpen it into an axe to cut down the tree. Buy the right tool for the job.) But I would most definitely try to file the scupper --if you really want this newer version-- first to see if you can get it seated better in the recess. Let us know what you decide to do and how it goes.
There’s a thread here somewhere about that issue. Just grind the edges a bit until it will fit flush. I would use some 4200 in addition to the gaskets.
There’s a thread here somewhere about that issue. Just grind the edges a bit until it will fit flush. I would use some 4200 in addition to the gaskets.
I recall multiple folks that came across this, and did just this thing. @FSH 210 Sport 's link is worth looking at, when he mentioned it a while back, they were the only place I have been able to find a replacement for the oddly-shaped deck drain fitting.
I'm with you, I don't like the idea of taking a Dremel to the boat - the fitting is the better choice to modify in this case. With the fit as tight as it is, you likely will have the edges well-hidden and your modifications will be easy to simply blend right in.
I recall multiple folks that came across this, and did just this thing. @FSH 210 Sport 's link is worth looking at, when he mentioned it a while back, they were the only place I have been able to find a replacement for the oddly-shaped deck drain fitting.
I'm with you, I don't like the idea of taking a Dremel to the boat - the fitting is the better choice to modify in this case. With the fit as tight as it is, you likely will have the edges well-hidden and your modifications will be easy to simply blend right in.
www.lislecorp.com
