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Best Trailer Tongue Jack

NORCAL-GAS

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Looks good. Couldn’t find any info on that grease fitting. I just squeezed a tube of grease in. Any idea what it does or where it goes?
 

WilCo

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@Julian - was the Northern Tool a direct mount to the Shorelandr trailer or did you have to buy additional parts?
I gave up on the F2 because the adapter plate doesn't seem to be made for our trailer and I didn't want to take a chance by rigging something else up. I'm trying to talk myself out of the ARK 750 right now so wanting to confirm the Northern Tool was a simple install and that you've not had any significant issues with it since installing.
Thanks in advance!
 

Nbnverb

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Not my find, need to thank @gmtech16450yz.

When I first looked at it - I just chuckled. $300 for a tongue jack??? You have got to be kidding me.
Amazon.com: XO Trailer Jack: Automotive
No way!

That was a couple months ago. Then last week I almost hit the rear gate of the new truck with the coupler when the tongue popped up - with the boat/trailer combo wobbling dangerously on top of the OEM jack looking like it is going to fold any second - does it all the time in uneven terrain or on a slope... And every time I need to extend the OEM jack anywhere close to the max range - it looks like it is going to fold.

That time was it. I ordered the ARK 750. With the removable magnetic handle.
View attachment 79226
View attachment 79230
View attachment 79235


What it looks like next to the OEM:
View attachment 79232


What a nice surprise when I got it, and installed! it is absolutely worth every penny. Built like a tank. Weighs about 50+lbs, comes almost completely preassembled, minus the wheels. It even has grease in it already! And a grease zerk for the future maintenance.
View attachment 79225

Comes with real bearings for the two large wheels.
View attachment 79227
View attachment 79228
View attachment 79229


It extends about 10" higher than the OEM yet folds to the same size. For anyone who likes to extend the jack to raise the bow and force the water out the back - this is your tool! Amazing.
View attachment 79233
View attachment 79234
View attachment 79236

I managed to disassemble the OEM without taking off the bowstop/winch assembly - by using a flat 3/4" wrench that reached inside the "cup" holding the two short bolt nuts.
It is free for the taking - if anyone needs one.
View attachment 79231


Of note:
They have a smaller model ARK 500 which would still be a huge step up from the OEM, but the 750 is THE BOMB. It has the sure-footed-ness I wanted and is extremely well made.

I needed 4 new M12 - 1.75x100mm bolts (~1/2x4") - as the factory sends ~3" bolts that are too short for the 240 Shorland'r frame. So, add another $10.

--
Did you get the M12 - 1.75x100mm bolts at Home Depot or someplace similar? By chance did you just use the nuts that came with the jack? I just ordered one of these. Thanks for your review!!
 

swatski

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Did you get the M12 - 1.75x100mm bolts at Home Depot or someplace similar? By chance did you just use the nuts that came with the jack? I just ordered one of these. Thanks for your review!!
Yes, HD - IIRC. DO not recall if I got the nuts there or reused the ones that came with the kit.

I am extremely happy with this jack, it has served us well and we often boat off the beaten path.
I grease and lubricate is religiously. Zero issues.

--
 

AJack

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Getting this Wednesday, I almost thought the stock jack was going to collapse today. I am interested if you could provide some pics of how you actually mounted it. I thought the stock jack had rivet type, am I wrong? I have a 2018 trailer for SX240.

I bought it at Tractor Supply $59 #2000 24" lift. I was able to mount it where the factory jack mounted. Bolted right up. I did need to drill the Holes out for the Lock pin to 1/2"
Much easier to crank!


View attachment 116528View attachment 116529
 

AJack

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Does this jack lift the boat higher than the OEM jack? Do you think you could swap the pull pin with the OEM? I don't want to remove the OEM option, but would rather mod the aftermarket jack. Finally, how long have you had it, recommend it?

I bought it at Tractor Supply $59 #2000 24" lift. I was able to mount it where the factory jack mounted. Bolted right up. I did need to drill the Holes out for the Lock pin to 1/2"
Much easier to crank!


View attachment 116528View attachment 116529
 

motomandan

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Does this jack lift the boat higher than the OEM jack? Do you think you could swap the pull pin with the OEM? I don't want to remove the OEM option, but would rather mod the aftermarket jack. Finally, how long have you had it, recommend it?
The stock jack bolts on from the back of the Bowstop/winch stand on the trailer tongue. No rivets.
You have to use the Lock pin set up on the new jack. It is integral with the jack. It is larger and stronger as well.
It lifts the boat about 6" higher than the stock jack.
It mounts in the same hole as the factory one.
I have used it 4 times since I installed it.
Much heavier duty, easier to roll and crank, Much less wobble and lifts higher!

Hook the trailer to your truck.
Crank the jack up so it pivots freely.
With a sharpie mark where Bowstop/winch stand is on the trailer tongue.
Unhook the safety chain and strap from Bow eye.
Remove the bolts on the bottom of the Bowstop/winch stand. Loosen the bolts above the tongue.
Slide the Bowstop/winch stand forward ( the boat may move a little) and remove Bowstop/winch stand from the tongue.
Look inside the Bowstop/winch stand and remove the nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the jack.
Remove the Jack.
You will need to drill out the holes for the Spring loaded locating pin on the Bowstop/winch stand. the old ones where 3/8" the new heavier ones are 1/2". Using a stepped drill bit it is very simple. Make sure you drill them large enough for the stop pin to slide easily.
Use the bolts from the original jack.
Use the round plate and the 4 corner star spring from the new jack (I used a die grinder to open up the slots to accept the the old bolts) You need to use these pieces to make the clearances proper .
Reaasemble the opposite of removal.
There is a grease fitting on the new jack. give it 2 pumps with a grease gun.
 

Damsroy

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I replaced the jack on my double axle trailer this weekend. I don't trailer much (boat is wet slipped) and use the jack twice a year so didn't want to spend too much money.

Went with a cheap jack recommended on this forum (thanks!!!): Amazon.com: Ultra-Tow Bolt-On Sidewind Marine Swivel Jack - 1500-Lb. Capacity, Zinc Finish: Sports & Outdoors

As mentioned it bolts right into the original mounting plate. I was able to mount the new jack without removing the bow-stop/winch stand since my boat was on the trailer but this was really tricky because there is not much room in the back to hold the washer and bolt.

Very happy and even though it is a cheap jack it is much heavier and sturdier than the original jack.9DA1A37A-EEC7-46CE-8466-10E6E30BB932.jpeg
 
Last edited:

AJack

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Awesome, I will reference this post this weekend. Getting the jack tomorrow, install either Friday or Saturday.

The stock jack bolts on from the back of the Bowstop/winch stand on the trailer tongue. No rivets.
You have to use the Lock pin set up on the new jack. It is integral with the jack. It is larger and stronger as well.
It lifts the boat about 6" higher than the stock jack.
It mounts in the same hole as the factory one.
I have used it 4 times since I installed it.
Much heavier duty, easier to roll and crank, Much less wobble and lifts higher!

Hook the trailer to your truck.
Crank the jack up so it pivots freely.
With a sharpie mark where Bowstop/winch stand is on the trailer tongue.
Unhook the safety chain and strap from Bow eye.
Remove the bolts on the bottom of the Bowstop/winch stand. Loosen the bolts above the tongue.
Slide the Bowstop/winch stand forward ( the boat may move a little) and remove Bowstop/winch stand from the tongue.
Look inside the Bowstop/winch stand and remove the nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the jack.
Remove the Jack.
You will need to drill out the holes for the Spring loaded locating pin on the Bowstop/winch stand. the old ones where 3/8" the new heavier ones are 1/2". Using a stepped drill bit it is very simple. Make sure you drill them large enough for the stop pin to slide easily.
Use the bolts from the original jack.
Use the round plate and the 4 corner star spring from the new jack (I used a die grinder to open up the slots to accept the the old bolts) You need to use these pieces to make the clearances proper .
Reaasemble the opposite of removal.
There is a grease fitting on the new jack. give it 2 pumps with a grease gun.
 

Daren and Heather

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Hi @swatski, so my stock tongue jack on my 2020 AR210 Shorelandr trailer broke on me after just 2 outings! I appreciate you posting this! I've decided I'd like to purchase the black version of the XO750 tongue jack you used.

Question - can I mount this tongue jack behind the bowstop stand, instead of in front? I don't want to relocate my bowstop stand since the boat is on the trailer, and I believe the new tongue jack has an 8" bracket... I only have 5" in front of the bowstop stand. So I'd like to put it behind, but I'm not sure if that's okay or not. See pic.
 

Attachments

Daren and Heather

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I put mine just behind the breakaway tongue. Works well there. I left the old one on the trailer.
On my trailer, I only have 5" behind the breakaway tongue, so I don't have room to mount an 8" bracket there. So my only option without having to relocate the bow stand, is to put it behind the bowstand closer to the boat. My question is, is it okay to have the jack mounted that close to the boat?

P.S. It's super easy to remove the stock tongue jack, some people said you have to remove the bow stand, but you don't at all - it takes 60 seconds. Just get a 3/4" wrench, and you can pretty easily get underneath and loosen/remove the 2 nuts.
 

HangOutdoors

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On my trailer, I only have 5" behind the breakaway tongue, so I don't have room to mount an 8" bracket there. So my only option without having to relocate the bow stand, is to put it behind the bowstand closer to the boat. My question is, is it okay to have the jack mounted that close to the boat?
I have the same issue of course since we have the same boat and trailer. I also have the same question, can it go behind the bowstand. Also the XO750 Black Edition is awesome. Needed longer bolts though I picked up from Hardware store.

Technically Daren, I could just ship my boat down to you to do em both at the same time, because I have the exact same Mods as you do just about 1 week behind you. :)

Anyone with any advice?
 

drewkaree

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Question - can I mount this tongue jack behind the bowstop stand, instead of in front? I don't want to relocate my bowstop stand since the boat is on the trailer, and I believe the new tongue jack has an 8" bracket... I only have 5" in front of the bowstop stand. So I'd like to put it behind, but I'm not sure if that's okay or not. See pic.
I also have the same question, can it go behind the bowstand. Also the XO750 Black Edition is awesome. Needed longer bolts though I picked up from Hardware store.
Yes, there is room, and this is exactly how I mounted mine. I really didn't see a price difference that would steer me away from getting the black to match my trailer, and I'm glad I went that route. I got the last one available from my vendor at the time, and it was sold out for months after that. I dunno if they made the price difference more distinct since then, but I'd spend the money on the black one all over again. Don't forget to grease it up before use!

I removed the OEM jack to give the new jack room to pivot in either direction - you can see the mounting holes for the old one in this pic


 

drewkaree

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p.s. I'd recommend setting up your boat for proper weight distribution prior to installing the winch. Move the winch post first, to the position you need, then install. If you look in my pic above, you can see the original location as indicated by the line cut into the trailer by the winch post - it's just to the right of the winch post, about half an inch. That was all that I had to move the post to balance the weight on the trailer. You may require more movement based on your desires. IIRC, that little bit of movement put me at 500 lbs tongue weight, but I'd have to recheck the weight at this point to verify, or mebbe I posted it somewhere around here that someone could dig up. You'll want to check your current setup to give yourself a baseline, then move it, then install your new jack.
 

Daren and Heather

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I have the same issue of course since we have the same boat and trailer. I also have the same question, can it go behind the bowstand. Also the XO750 Black Edition is awesome. Needed longer bolts though I picked up from Hardware store.

Technically Daren, I could just ship my boat down to you to do em both at the same time, because I have the exact same Mods as you do just about 1 week behind you. :)

Anyone with any advice?
I talked to the Yamaha dealership repair guy about this yesterday, he said putting the jack stand behind the bow stand was completely fine. He recommended not messing with the bow stand location as it "should" be adjusted perfectly already from the factory. I just bought longer 4 1/2" stainless steel bolts and locking nuts and am going to do the install this morning. I'll create an install video for this and upload it later today.
 

HangOutdoors

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The XO750 Black Edition. Installed. The thing is a beast.

XO750-1.jpgXO750-2.jpgXO750-3.jpg
 

ZGhost

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Thanks for all the insights on the XO750 from everyone here. Just placed an order for a black one. Don’t want to mess with the flimsy OEM one.
 

HangOutdoors

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Don't forget, depending on the width of your trailer tongue, you will need longer bolts. I got mine an inch longer and they worked out perfect.
 
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