2016 242 L SE starboard engine slips at 5k rpm all way to 9k so won’t get on plane.

[Drew2foot]

Please help. I just paid $2500 to a repair shop to replace both impellers and the housings and there is no difference!!!! Both engines run great up to around 5k rpm. The starboard will then rev high all the way to 8k as if it was cavitating and then she will sound like she is trying to slow back down to the port engine at 5k. If I then baby it really slow she’ll catch up and the boat will get onto plane obviously this is not working correctly. Does anyone have any ideas now that I’ve wasted $2500 and have new impellers and impeller housings. Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[itsdgm]

Sorry to hear about your issue. How does the sealant look on your intake grate and around the inlet that the water travels through on its way into the pump. Any loose or missing sealant in those areas can cause cavitation.

 

[Neutron]

Please help. I just paid $2500 to a repair shop to replace both impellers and the housings and there is no difference!!!! Both engines run great up to around 5k rpm. The starboard will then rev high all the way to 8k as if it was cavitating and then she will sound like she is trying to slow back down to the port engine at 5k. If I then baby it really slow she’ll catch up and the boat will get onto plane obviously this is not working correctly. Does anyone have any ideas now that I’ve wasted $2500 and have new impellers and impeller housings. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Its still cavitating. Either your repair shop are total idiots or something else is causing it to cavitate.

 

[Acard7]

Kinda wondering what the original impellers and housings looked like? Hope the shop didn’t just replace to take your money.

Inspect your pumps very well, may need to pull them to make sure there’s absolutely nothing causing cavitation. Then inspect for sealant needed in different spots as said above.

Odd situation you have for sure. Especially if you have no engine codes or anything.

 

[Neutron]

Loss of sealant will cause some cavitation but not enough to explain his severe cavitation. Cavitation like his is from no traction.

 

[Drew2foot]

Here is a video of it happening...

 

[Drew2foot]

Kinda wondering what the original impellers and housings looked like? Hope the shop didn’t just replace to take your money.

Inspect your pumps very well, may need to pull them to make sure there’s absolutely nothing causing cavitation. Then inspect for sealant needed in different spots as said above.

Odd situation you have for sure. Especially if you have no engine codes or anything.

Its odd because both of the impellers show damage as well as the housings. The new ones should have fixed the problem based on how bad they were. I will post the video showing the condition of them below along with the test run with the new parts.

 

[Neutron]

Its odd because both of the impellers show damage as well as the housings. The new ones should have fixed the problem based on how bad they were. I will post the video showing the condition of them below along with the test run with the new parts.

Your videos are set to private, cant view them

 

[Neutron]

If they put the wrong impellers in then you could still have issues. Wrong pitch or too small. Check with a flashlight shining into the intake grates and look into the nozzles to get an idea how much light you can see around the prop. Should be a very thin amount of space. If its like credit card thickness its too much

 

[David Martin]

First if you got new impellers and housing you did not waist you money...........but if they did not calk all the gaps shut and smooth it proper ....cavitation can occur like itsdgm and others have said.

Good luck

 

[Drew2foot]

Update! We found the problem but that creates another problem. The cleanout plug seats itself in a metal ring. This metal ring corroded so much that it will no longer make a tight seal. When boat reaches 5k rpm's the suction is so intense that air is being sucked in causing the cavitation. Does anyone know where I can purchase a replacement metal ring? I have looked online and cant even find out what this part is called.

 

[Neutron]

That part is integrated into the hull. They are not replaceable. They are glassed into the tunnel. Dont know anyone who has cut them out and replaced. I cant find them on the parts listings anywhere.

 

[Drew2foot]

That part is integrated into the hull. They are not replaceable. They are glassed into the tunnel. Dont know anyone who has cut them out and replaced. I cant find them on the parts listings anywhere.

Oh.... that's not good. Just I will have to seal her in place. Thanks for your help.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Try doing the rebuild kit it has a new seal and lower portion of the plug that may seal better and keep you from cavitating bottom rebuild kits are not expensive.

 

[Neutron]

Oh.... that's not good. Just I will have to seal her in place. Thanks for your help.

As a last resort that would be what i would do

 

[Drew2foot]

Try doing the rebuild kit it has a new seal and lower portion of the plug that may seal better and keep you from cavitating bottom rebuild kits are not expensive.

Thank you for the suggestion. I have done this rebuild kit last week.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

hmmm did you sand the ring nice and smooth ?

 

[Drew2foot]

Mechanic put silicone sealant all around the plug and we let it sit 24 hours. Just took it to the lake and she is still doing the exact same thing..... Any ideas on what I can put into this plug tube to completely seal it up?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Mechanic put silicone sealant all around the plug and we let it sit 24 hours. Just took it to the lake and she is still doing the exact same thing..... Any ideas on what I can put into this plug tube to completely seal it up?

In my opinion you do not want to glue the clean out plug in place. The first thing that comes to mind is to get in there with a dremel tool and remove as much of the corrosion / loose material that you can with an emphasis on removing the least amount but it needs to be clean. Once it is all nice and clean, and cleaned with Lectra Motive or some other contact cleaner, heat the metal up with a heat gun or hair dryer, not too hot but warm, then put a layer of JB weld Steel epoxy in there, just enough to float the surface to make a new sealing surface, with emphasis on just enough, then let it dry 24 hours, don’t touch it during the dry time. The JB Weld will self level and form a new clean surface on the bottom for the clean out plug to seat against. I’ve used this process in the past to fix water pump housings on dirt bikes that got corroded.

 

[David Martin]

How badly corroded are the metal tubes?....................Need pictures...................it is possible it was left in the water so long the tubes are corroded beyond repair but most times it just requires a sanding to smooth and an epoxy like FSH 210 mentions.