2021 255 FSH Sport E, 2 years later

[wmblakejr]

I took delivery of our Yamaha 255 FSH Sport E in June 2021. We love how this boat meets the needs of our large family as well as bay & near-shore fishing In New Jersey. Last year I put it up at a marina for the winter to install a trolling motor and address a couple warranty issues, largely cosmetic. The trolling motor is a massive improvement. So worth it. This past winter I kept it at our home on the trailer to learn by doing the annual service, detail the hull and move the engine compartment fire extinguisher from the engine compartment. Yep, that‘s right. The extinguisher for the engine bay fire port is inside the port side engine compartment. With all that done I loaded all the gear today intending to put it on the lift in the next day or two, weather permitting. However I found that the bow center compartment which is under the floor is flooded. Appreciate any insight out there on how to clear the compartment drain and drain clearing in general.

 

[Robbyw]

I can’t help with that but if I could do it over I would have got the FSH instead of the AR250. I think it would have done everything I need and use it to fish out of. My wife was against one boat for fishing and playing. She didn’t want hooks, catfish slime, etc in “her boat”. So I have to fish out of my little aluminum boat.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I took delivery of our Yamaha 255 FSH Sport E in June 2021. We love how this boat meets the needs of our large family as well as bay & near-shore fishing In New Jersey. Last year I put it up at a marina for the winter to install a trolling motor and address a couple warranty issues, largely cosmetic. The trolling motor is a massive improvement. So worth it. This past winter I kept it at our home on the trailer to learn by doing the annual service, detail the hull and move the engine compartment fire extinguisher from the engine compartment. Yep, that‘s right. The extinguisher for the engine bay fire port is inside the port side engine compartment. With all that done I loaded all the gear today intending to put it on the lift in the next day or two, weather permitting. However I found that the bow center compartment which is under the floor is flooded. Appreciate any insight out there on how to clear the compartment drain and drain clearing in general.

So you’re talking about the five gallon bucket locker, there was a couple of posts about that floor drain not working as well as the head compartment drain not working, I don’t recall what the outcomes were. Does your head compartment drain work properly? All the other drains work properly? I think this would be a warranty item.

As a suggestion, if your floor drain is like the one in my 210 FSH, try removing the drain plug assembly (2 screws hold it in) and see if you can use a coat hanger or something similar to feel around below the drain for an obstruction.

 

[wmblakejr]

So you’re talking about the five gallon bucket locker, there was a couple of posts about that floor drain not working as well as the head compartment drain not working, I don’t recall what the outcomes were. Does your head compartment drain work properly? All the other drains work properly? I think this would be a warranty item.

As a suggestion, if your floor drain is like the one in my 210 FSH, try removing the drain plug assembly (2 screws hold it in) and see if you can use a coat hanger or something similar to feel around below the drain for an obstruction.

Yes, I am referring to the 5 gallon bucket compartment and the head compartment is draining fine. I’ll lower the water level and try fishing a small flexible hose through.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yes, I am referring to the 5 gallon bucket compartment and the head compartment is draining fine. I’ll lower the water level and try fishing a small flexible hose through.

So it looks like @zackadams fixed his non draining head / 5 gal bucket locker by just taking a hose and shooting water through the drain to clear it, pages 26 & 27.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2021-fsh-252-sport-thread.29278/page-26

I went through the posts quickly from page 27 on and it appears that @YamSport not here since July of 2022 ever reported back with results after @zackadams gave him the advice with the hose. Sounds like the hose may be the best first option since there is already water in there.. a bit more isn’t going to hurt, and it sounds the easiest.

 

[wmblakejr]

So it looks like @zackadams fixed his non draining head / 5 gal bucket locker by just taking a hose and shooting water through the drain to clear it, pages 26 & 27.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2021-fsh-252-sport-thread.29278/page-26

I went through the posts quickly from page 27 on and it appears that @YamSport not here since July of 2022 ever reported back with results after @zackadams gave him the advice with the hose. Sounds like the hose may be the best first option since there is already water in there.. a bit more isn’t going to hurt, and it sounds the easiest.

Thanks. I used a long piece of flexible ice maker tubing and blew it out. It took multiple attempts and I found that the water backed up into the head compartment until I blew that out as well. I’d love to have a diagram of the drains.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Awesome!

Any idea what was in there?

Did you try adding water into those compartments after clearing the drains to verify the drains worked properly?

I think the head and 5 gallon bucket compartments are made from the liner and sit down in the hull between the top cap. The drains just dump into the hull / bilge at those points.

 

[zipper]

Just a thought on previous designs. I had to jack the trailer up pretty high to get the water to drain aft. In my 07 ar230, I had to jack it all the way up while the jack was on a 6x6 block. That sent the water sitting under the ski locker or in your case the head locker aft to the hull/bilge drain. What was worse was the boat sitting static in the water at a slip. Any rain water that got in under the cover would flow forward on deck and pool in the bow until it made it's way to the front edge of the ski locker, where it then found its way to the bilge below. Fixed by adding weight to the stern. Then any water on deck would flow out the scupper and not pool forward. https://jetboaters.net/threads/rain...w-floor-while-on-the-water.14264/#post-246353

 

[MilesPrower]

Thanks. I used a long piece of flexible ice maker tubing and blew it out. It took multiple attempts and I found that the water backed up into the head compartment until I blew that out as well. I’d love to have a diagram of the drains.

Also, I find that my helm and bow lockers drain better if I have the engine compartment's drain-plug open. (The drain that's on the bottom of the bulkhead between the engines and the gas tank.)

I actually pull the plug completely out of the hole (just yank on the plug hard, and it'll pull out) to promote better draining. My boat has a bunch of discarded fasteners and other construction debris sitting underneath the gas tank, with no way to clear it out. I vacuumed some of it out through the engine compartment's drain hole after pulling out the plug completely, but some of the debris is too big to fit through the drain hole.

There might be some discarded tools in there too — like the screwdriver that I found elsewhere in the bilge.

 

[fatboyroy]

I took delivery of our Yamaha 255 FSH Sport E in June 2021. We love how this boat meets the needs of our large family as well as bay & near-shore fishing In New Jersey. Last year I put it up at a marina for the winter to install a trolling motor and address a couple warranty issues, largely cosmetic. The trolling motor is a massive improvement. So worth it. This past winter I kept it at our home on the trailer to learn by doing the annual service, detail the hull and move the engine compartment fire extinguisher from the engine compartment. Yep, that‘s right. The extinguisher for the engine bay fire port is inside the port side engine compartment. With all that done I loaded all the gear today intending to put it on the lift in the next day or two, weather permitting. However I found that the bow center compartment which is under the floor is flooded. Appreciate any insight out there on how to clear the compartment drain and drain clearing in general.

I have a buddy that have a 24ft boat (outboard, non-jet boat). He was asking about my trolling motor and I said I can't live without it after using it. Now he wants one but I couldnt tell him if a 112 lb thrust 36V minn kota is enough for his boat. What did you end up installing and how does it work with 25ft boat?

 

[MilesPrower]

I have a buddy that have a 24ft boat (outboard, non-jet boat). He was asking about my trolling motor and I said I can't live without it after using it. Now he wants one but I couldnt tell him if a 112 lb thrust 36V minn kota is enough for his boat. What did you end up installing and how does it work with 25ft boat?

I have a 105 lb 36 V Motorguide on my 255 FSH. It's plenty strong enough to maneuver the boat and keep it spot-locked in 15 kt winds, 3 kt current, 2 ft seas. Unless your buddy's 24 footer is a tugboat, the 112 lb Minn Kota should be plenty strong enough.

 

[MilesPrower]

Yep, that‘s right. The extinguisher for the engine bay fire port is inside the port side engine compartment.

Your boat came with an engine-bay extinguisher?

Mine was delivered to the dealer without any extinguishers. The dealer add a cheapo extinguisher under the portside seat/hatch next to the engine compartment. I moved that one from the floor of that compartment to the bulkhead, replacing its cheap plastic mount with a USCG-approved stainless-steel mount, so I could use that compartment for storage.

I mounted my own 5B:C Halotron engine-fire extinguisher inside the starboard closet (opposite the "aquarium" bait well). I also mounted a regular marine extinguisher just inside the hatch of the helm closet.

 

[fatboyroy]

I have a 105 lb 36 V Motorguide on my 255 FSH. It's plenty strong enough to maneuver the boat and keep it spot-locked in 15 kt winds, 3 kt current, 2 ft seas. Unless your buddy's 24 footer is a tugboat, the 112 lb Minn Kota should be plenty strong enough.

thank you!!!

 

[coryocon]

Hey guys I have a question regarding the engine compartment drain plug and storage for a 255 FSH being in a wet slip, on a lift, uncovered.

My boat lift originally was not high enough in the front and once the boat was lowered into the water the auto bilge would kick on and pump water out with the batteries off. This lead to me having the nose of the boat lifted higher to allow the rainwater to drain out.

With that being said the nose is much higher (after 2 adjustments) and the auto bilge no longer kicks on when lowering the boat in the water, however this past week I went to check on the boat and the engine compartment had quite a bit of water and when I kicked on the bilge it took a little over 9 minutes to pump out all the water. Bilge and batteries were fine though so it wasn't high enough for the auto bilge to kick on.

I currently have the hull drain plug installed and the engine compartment drain plug open.

I can't find any information in the manual in regards to the engine compartment drain plug and I am trying to figure out if I should have this closed while storing and open while operating to avoid this?

Either way, if any one can provide any information or tips on storing a 255 FSH outdoors in a wet slip on a lift and how to avoid water retention please let me know.

 

[fatboyroy]

Hey guys I have a question regarding the engine compartment drain plug and storage for a 255 FSH being in a wet slip, on a lift, uncovered.

My boat lift originally was not high enough in the front and once the boat was lowered into the water the auto bilge would kick on and pump water out with the batteries off. This lead to me having the nose of the boat lifted higher to allow the rainwater to drain out.

With that being said the nose is much higher (after 2 adjustments) and the auto bilge no longer kicks on when lowering the boat in the water, however this past week I went to check on the boat and the engine compartment had quite a bit of water and when I kicked on the bilge it took a little over 9 minutes to pump out all the water. Bilge and batteries were fine though so it wasn't high enough for the auto bilge to kick on.

I currently have the hull drain plug installed and the engine compartment drain plug open.

I can't find any information in the manual in regards to the engine compartment drain plug and I am trying to figure out if I should have this closed while storing and open while operating to avoid this?

Either way, if any one can provide any information or tips on storing a 255 FSH outdoors in a wet slip on a lift and how to avoid water retention please let me know.


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I store in my trailer with no cover and I keep all my drain plugs throughout the boat open I never close it. But one good reason to close it is when underway so that if water gets in rear compartment it wont transfer forward thus slow the sinking of the boat (im just to lazy to close lol).

 

[MilesPrower]

With that being said the nose is much higher (after 2 adjustments) and the auto bilge no longer kicks on when lowering the boat in the water, however this past week I went to check on the boat and the engine compartment had quite a bit of water and when I kicked on the bilge it took a little over 9 minutes to pump out all the water. Bilge and batteries were fine though so it wasn't high enough for the auto bilge to kick on.

Dang! That's a lot of water. I keep my boat on a lift — bow-high and uncovered — with a setup that looks pretty much like yours. After a long day/night of boating, when I pull the drain plug, roughly 5-10 gal water pours out of the plug. That means at the angle my boat is sitting on the lift, the hull underneath the engine compartment can still hold that much water after the bilge pump has expunged whatever water it has.

And yes, I'm talking about pulling the main drain plug below the articulating keel.

Once the boat is lifted, I extend the rear boarding ladder, climb down the ladder, and pull the plug. (I weigh 145 lb.) And obviously, before I drop the boat back in the water, I climb down the ladder and screw the plug back in. I've done this hundreds of times throughout the 2+ years I've owned my boat, without any damage to the ladder that I can see.... but just in case, I don't have anything important in my pockets when I do this, just in case the ladder fails and I end up in the water!

On the AR210 I owned before my 255 FSH, I could reach the drain plug while lying stomach-down on the swim platform.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Its possible the level wasn’t high enough for the auto to activate. Was the water in the engine compartment above the bilge pump?

If the bilge stopped working automatically, the fuse is blown for the auto circuit, check the individual fuse holders next to the batteries, there are two fuses there associated with the bilge pump, this is in addition to the manually activated circuit with its own ckt breaker on the dash.

Looks like there is power at your dock, do you have an onboard charger? I don’t see a cord from the box going into your boat?

Now lets address why the water is getting into your bilge in the first place, which it should not while sitting out in the rain.

-The first place I’d start would be all of the cup holders, on my 210 FSH none of these were sealed and a lot of water would get in that way when I washed it or when it rained. Also, I found that the cup holders up front drained into the bilge itself, so I put some vacuum plugs on the nipple on the bottom of those cup holders. The two cup holders on the dash may drain onto the deck with the idea that this water will go out through the deck drains in the corners.

-The second place you need to look at is the rod holders, only the very front two, one port and one starboard, had drain lines on them that went overboard. I bought some universal rod holder drains from TH Marine and tied them into the other drains on the boat, so now all rod holders and cup holders drain overboard. Also, pull the rod holders out and seal them to the cap rails / gunnels.

-The third place I’d look be at the deck drains themselves, I have a suspicion this the main source of rain water making it into the bilge. Make sure the deck drain fittings are sealed properly to the deck, pull them out and verify that they are sealed properly. While you are there, make sure the deck drain hoses and such are all clamped properly and are not leaking. You can check this by stuffing a rag in the thru hull fittings and then take a hose and put a couple of inches of water on the deck.

-The fourth place I’d check, and this is probably not where the rain water is coming in but you should seal this up anyway is the clean out tray. From the factory the clean out tray is not sealed very well at all. Just remember to apply the sealant, seal and peel is a good product from DAP or 3M can’t remember which, with the clean out tray installed, you do not want to glue it down. When you pull the clean out tray, make sure all of the clamps in the aft bilge are are tight and in good order. Check for any leakage on any of the thru hulls in this area.

-The fifth place to check is In the engine bay, check to make sure the sea cock line is properly installed and clamped properly.

-The sixth place to check would be the seal around the 5 gallon buck locker in the bow, if necessary tighten the clamping mechanism arm so that when you close the latch it pulls snugly, not tight, on the seal, this lockers should have no water in it even if you rinse the area with a hose.

For sealant I’d suggest either Three Bond Silicone sealer 1211, or 3M 4200. Just be sure you keep the 4200 out of the sun as it will yellow.

 

[coryocon]

Dang! That's a lot of water. I keep my boat on a lift — bow-high and uncovered — with a setup that looks pretty much like yours. After a long day/night of boating, when I pull the drain plug, roughly 5-10 gal water pours out of the plug. That means at the angle my boat is sitting on the lift, the hull underneath the engine compartment can still hold that much water after the bilge pump has expunged whatever water it has.

And yes, I'm talking about pulling the main drain plug below the articulating keel.

Once the boat is lifted, I extend the rear boarding ladder, climb down the ladder, and pull the plug. (I weigh 145 lb.) And obviously, before I drop the boat back in the water, I climb down the ladder and screw the plug back in. I've done this hundreds of times throughout the 2+ years I've owned my boat, without any damage to the ladder that I can see.... but just in case, I don't have anything important in my pockets when I do this, just in case the ladder fails and I end up in the water!

On the AR210 I owned before my 255 FSH, I could reach the drain plug while lying stomach-down on the swim platform.

Man, thanks for the reply and info! I literally have thought about doing the same thing.

My lift is not at my primary residence so I think I will just let it drain post boating or large storm and then put it back in, just in case.

Do you think that the rainwater can just fill up the hull under the engine compartment until it eventually is drained below the bilge or until the water gets high enough the auto bilge kicks on?

Curious about the engine compartment plug and if closed if it would keep the rainwater out of the engine compartment and the hull would only retain the water underneath engine but not fill into the engine compartment as it would drain via the outlets. I ask because my engine compartment had a good level of water in it when I initially boarded the boat, but like I said I guess it was not high enough in the engine compartment to kick on the auto bilge. I just don't like the idea of water sitting in the engine compartment and I can't be there every time it rains to run the bilge.

 

[MilesPrower]

Now lets address why the water is getting into your bilge in the first place, which it should not while sitting out in the rain.

-The first place...

Those are all great recommendations, @FSH 210 Sport !

All this would inconsequential on my 255 FSH, because most of the water that gets into the bilge during rainfall is from the holes that were drilled through the deck for the hardtop stanchions. Any water that runs down the deck from the bow pours right into the helm locker through those holes. The drain in the helm locker then goes through a tube, which exits at the cutout for the bilge pump in the floor of the engine compartment.

[EDIT: Corrected my description of the location of the drain tube.]

 

[MilesPrower]

Do you think that the rainwater can just fill up the hull under the engine compartment until it eventually is drained below the bilge or until the water gets high enough the auto bilge kicks on?

The auto-function on my bilge pump kicks in only when the pump is halfway submerged... which means a good amount of water can be sitting (and splashing) in the "V" of the engine compartment. When I manually turn on the bilge pump, it can run for maybe 30 sec emptying that water out. 9 minutes sounds like you've got a crazy amount of water! Definitely check the fuses as @FSH 210 Sport suggested.

Curious about the engine compartment plug and if closed if it would keep the rainwater out of the engine compartment and the hull would only retain the water underneath engine but not fill into the engine compartment as it would drain via the outlets.

As you're peering into your engine compartment, if you look carefully at the cutout where the bilge pump is installed, you might see the open end of a drain tube directly in front of the pump. On my 255 FSH, water that enters the helm locker drains out of that tube. As I mentioned in the post above — when it rains, my helm locker collects water that is running down the deck from the bow, because the dumb@sses at Yamaha implemented stanchion mounts that go through the deck without any sealant. Therefore, closing the engine compartment plug doesn't prevent water from entering the engine compartment.

[EDIT: Corrected the location of the drain tube.]