2021 FSH 252 Sport Thread

[Zackdadams]

I just checked, by pouring a bottled water in the forward fish locker, and it drained out the side of the boat.
There is a 2" drain hole near the front of the boat, starboard side.

I ran a nylon fish tape in from the outside, and it's only 1ft from the locker.
I would venture to guess that hose is clogged, or they did in fact install it too high.
Here's a picture of where my drain hole is.

Stick a hose in the locker, and see if any water is coming out of that drain.

 

[YamSport]

I put a hose to it and only after some pressure did it let water through. I don't think a bad slope would cause that so it's most likely a blocked/crimped up hose..

 

[Zackdadams]

Ok, well I would guess that the drain can be removed to get access to the hose.
I bet it threads out.
If the dealer still has the boat, ask them to check it.

 

[Tpowie12]

When I noticed the ice box would not drain, I put a blower to it and it did push some water out the side. The dealer thinks the drain hose has been installed higher than the ice box. Shouldn't the dealer snake it and see where it goes at least to verify the issue? Or do I need to call a plumber?

Also, I received a box with letter and a black towel last week thanking me for buying a new Wave Runner. I did not buy a new wave runner though. Has anyone else received this by mistake?

I've had this exact same issue with mine since the start. It's a real pain to bail all the water out of that after you've had fish and frozen bait up there all day!

 

[Zackdadams]

I just ran an endoscope into the drain from the outside.
It's just a simple 1ft hose, connected to what looks like a 90 degree fitting, going into the fish locker.

If you don't have one, get one.
They are very useful.
Here's the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZH9P8QH

 

[PerkDaddy]

Unless I've missed it, why haven't any of you Pros posted a walkthrough of your trolling motor installations?

Many of us are still planning ours, and could benefit from it.
Thanks

I plan on installing my ShuttleSlide mount tomorrow. I'll take pictures this time and put together a post on what I bought and how I installed everything. Well, almost everything since I haven't installed my onboard charger yet.

 

[MilesPrower]

if you do a search I think you will find that someone has done this already… it may be in a 255 FSH thread. If memory serves you can only use one-side of the uprights..

https://jetboaters.net/threads/255-fsh-for-the-spring.35891/post-577749

 

[Zackdadams]

Well I just ordered a MotorGuide Xi5 and 36v Dakota Lithium.

When it comes in I'll post a detailed installation.

 

[Jdgars]

Well I just ordered a MotorGuide Xi5 and 36v Dakota Lithium.

When it comes in I'll post a detailed installation.

Are you going to use yamahas mount or a different one? Also where did u order the motor guide from?

 

[Zackdadams]

Going to use factory mount I believe.
I ordered the motor from Hodges Marine.

This install getting more expensive by the minute.
I'm already at $5k+ just for parts.

 

[Jdgars]

Going to use factory mount I believe.
I ordered the motor from Hodges Marine.

This install getting more expensive by the minute.
I'm already at $5k+ just for parts.

i know the feeling. Wanting to go the lithium battery route myself. They aren’t cheap lol. Kinda anxious to see that shuttleslide mount and how it does

 

[SDAnderson51]

What is your reason for going with the MotorGuide vs. the Minn Kota? I have been looking at both but the Minn Kota seems to have more bells and whistles.

 

[PerkDaddy]

I installed my ShuttleSlide trolling motor mount and took it to Sebastian Inlet Sunday. I'm extremely happy with the Motorguide and was amazed it could keep the boat locked even in some heavy current from the outgoing tide.

Here's my setup and the equipment I bought. I still need to permanently mount the charger and breaker and need to do some fine tuning on the mount.

Note: I went with Lithium batteries for three reasons: longer life, power output doesn't fall off until close to depleted, and of course weight.
I also had mounted the motor originally with the factory mount (which was promptly destroyed by the power of the motor) so I'll do my best to describe the work I did originally during the install.

Motor and Mounting equipment
Motorguide Xi5 Wireless Saltwater 105lb 72" with Pinpoint GPS
Xi Series Quick Disconnect Kit
ShuttleSlide trolling motor mount
Trolling Motor Power Plug
Trolling Motor Power Receptacle

Electrical
3 x LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries 12V 100Ah
12V 15A 3-Bank Onboard Battery Charger
12V 60A Circuit Breaker
6 AWG Marine Grade Battery Ring Terminals
6 AWG Marine Grade Primary Wire (Red)
6 AWG Marine Grade Primary Wire (Black)

Misc
3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant
Ultra Tef-Gel
Solder (I soldered my terminals to the wire)
Wire shrink tube
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Drill and bits
Wrenches and sockets (10mm especially)
Phillips screwdrivers

Wire the 3 12V batteries in series to make the 36V required for this motor.
I soldered the ring terminals to the wire but you can just crimp.


I bought a 3 bank charger that has a setting for lithium so I can charge the entire battery simultaneously. At 5A per bank, it takes a while if they're pretty low (the full 100Ah at 5A takes ~20 hours).


Here they are installed on the shelf under the console. I installed two stainless eye hooks on either side and strap the batteries down with an adjustable bungie cord. I also have the batteries on a piece of foam rubber that a friend had lying around which just happened to be a perfect fit. You can also see here the breaker (just hanging for now). Also note the entry onto the center console where the wires are run. The wire were simple to run once the port speaker panel and seat back are removed. (pics further down)



Gaining access to the inner hull on the port side is simple once you know what's holding the speaker panel on. Twist and remove the chrome ring on the beverage (beer) holder to expose the three screws. Remove the screws and pull out the cup holder. Then remove the four speaker screws and pull it out. It can be pulled out far enough to access the back of the panel without the need to unclip the wiring harness if you choose.



Once the speaker is out, you can access the four long studs on the back of the panel that secure the it to the hull. These are secured by 10mm nuts with washers. I was able to put a deep well 10mm socket on them and hand loosen these. In the picture below I marked the stud locations with blue tape since you have to do this blindly.


Once those 4 nuts/washers are removed, the panel can be pulled straight out. A little rocking may be required. Below is a picture of the studs on the back of the panel. If you want to completely remove the panel, you'll need to unclip the wiring harnesses for the speaker and the panel light. I just placed the speaker back in the speaker hole and rotated the entire panel 90 degrees to give access to inside the hull.


I chose to mount the power plug receptacle just inside the bow rail area. The plug sticks out quite a bit and I didn't want it to get hit while fishing off the bow. I don't have pics of the receptical install. I measured the diameter of the plug back and used the appropriate size hole saw to drill the hole. I pulled the power wires through the hole and soldered/shrink-tubed/taped the wires to the two corresponding wires on the back of the receptacle. I put sealant around the back of the flange and secured with the two included screws.
To install the plug on the motor, I clipped off the included ring terminals from the motor power cord and soldered/shrink-tubed/taped the power plug to the motor.


Running the power wires is easy. Remove the backrest of the port bow seat by removing the two screws at the bottom of the back cushion and the pulling up on it. This exposes the entire area of the forward live well. You can then run the wires from the receptacle area, though the open port bow storage locker, into the live well area, and down into the center console.




I'll have to a separate post on the ShuttleSlide install. I still need to do some tweaking to it but I'm so far very happy with it.

Let me know if you have any questions about the install in the meantime.

 

[Jdgars]

I installed my ShuttleSlide trolling motor mount and took it to Sebastian Inlet Sunday. I'm extremely happy with the Motorguide and was amazed it could keep the boat locked even in some heavy current from the outgoing tide.

Here's my setup and the equipment I bought. I still need to permanently mount the charger and breaker and need to do some fine tuning on the mount.

Note: I went with Lithium batteries for three reasons: longer life, power output doesn't fall off until close to depleted, and of course weight.
I also had mounted the motor originally with the factory mount (which was promptly destroyed by the power of the motor) so I'll do my best to describe the work I did originally during the install.

Motor and Mounting equipment
Motorguide Xi5 Wireless Saltwater 105lb 72" with Pinpoint GPS
Xi Series Quick Disconnect Kit
ShuttleSlide trolling motor mount
Trolling Motor Power Plug
Trolling Motor Power Receptacle

Electrical
3 x LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries 12V 100Ah
12V 15A 3-Bank Onboard Battery Charger
12V 60A Circuit Breaker
6 AWG Marine Grade Battery Ring Terminals
6 AWG Marine Grade Primary Wire (Red)
6 AWG Marine Grade Primary Wire (Black)

Misc
3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant
Ultra Tef-Gel
Solder (I soldered my terminals to the wire)
Wire shrink tube
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Drill and bits
Wrenches and sockets (10mm especially)
Phillips screwdrivers

Wire the 3 12V batteries in series to make the 36V required for this motor.
I soldered the ring terminals to the wire but you can just crimp.
View attachment 170447

I bought a 3 bank charger that has a setting for lithium so I can charge the entire battery simultaneously. At 5A per bank, it takes a while if they're pretty low (the full 100Ah at 5A takes ~20 hours).
View attachment 170448

Here they are installed on the shelf under the console. I installed two stainless eye hooks on either side and strap the batteries down with an adjustable bungie cord. I also have the batteries on a piece of foam rubber that a friend had lying around which just happened to be a perfect fit. You can also see here the breaker (just hanging for now). Also note the entry onto the center console where the wires are run. The wire were simple to run once the port speaker panel and seat back are removed. (pics further down)
View attachment 170449
View attachment 170450

Gaining access to the inner hull on the port side is simple once you know what's holding the speaker panel on. Twist and remove the chrome ring on the beverage (beer) holder to expose the three screws. Remove the screws and pull out the cup holder. Then remove the four speaker screws and pull it out. It can be pulled out far enough to access the back of the panel without the need to unclip the wiring harness if you choose.
View attachment 170453
View attachment 170454

Once the speaker is out, you can access the four long studs on the back of the panel that secure the it to the hull. These are secured by 10mm nuts with washers. I was able to put a deep well 10mm socket on them and hand loosen these. In the picture below I marked the stud locations with blue tape since you have to do this blindly.
View attachment 170457

Once those 4 nuts/washers are removed, the panel can be pulled straight out. A little rocking may be required. Below is a picture of the studs on the back of the panel. If you want to completely remove the panel, you'll need to unclip the wiring harnesses for the speaker and the panel light. I just placed the speaker back in the speaker hole and rotated the entire panel 90 degrees to give access to inside the hull.
View attachment 170458

I chose to mount the power plug receptacle just inside the bow rail area. The plug sticks out quite a bit and I didn't want it to get hit while fishing off the bow. I don't have pics of the receptical install. I measured the diameter of the plug back and used the appropriate size hole saw to drill the hole. I pulled the power wires through the hole and soldered/shrink-tubed/taped the wires to the two corresponding wires on the back of the receptacle. I put sealant around the back of the flange and secured with the two included screws.
To install the plug on the motor, I clipped off the included ring terminals from the motor power cord and soldered/shrink-tubed/taped the power plug to the motor.
View attachment 170459

Running the power wires is easy. Remove the backrest of the port bow seat by removing the two screws at the bottom of the back cushion and the pulling up on it. This exposes the entire area of the forward live well. You can then run the wires from the receptacle area, though the open port bow storage locker, into the live well area, and down into the center console.
View attachment 170460
View attachment 170461
View attachment 170462

I'll have to a separate post on the ShuttleSlide install. I still need to do some tweaking to it but I'm so far very happy with it.

Let me know if you have any questions about the install in the meantime.

Nice write up. Very interested to see how the slide installed

 

[PerkDaddy]

Going to use factory mount I believe.
I ordered the motor from Hodges Marine.

This install getting more expensive by the minute.
I'm already at $5k+ just for parts.

Unfortunately the factory mount is way too flimsy for the 105 ft-lbs the 36V Motorguide puts out. I didn't heed warnings from other boaters and learned the hard way. Here's a picture of what happened to mine after about 30 seconds of use. That much torque on such a long lever arm bent the aluminum at the mounting point.

 

[Zackdadams]

Fantastic writeup!

A couple things (electrician OCD)
I would highly recommend you put all wires in split tubing.
You should also apply dielectric grease to all electrical connections, especially the ones behind that speaker grill area. This prevents corrosion.

As far as the mount goes, you convinced me.
Ordering shuttle slide tonight.

 

[Zackdadams]

What is your reason for going with the MotorGuide vs. the Minn Kota? I have been looking at both but the Minn Kota seems to have more bells and whistles.

I absolutely would rather the Minn Kota.
Unfortunately it's sold out worldwide, and every company I have contacted is telling me April to May before it may even ship.
I don't want to miss another season without a trolling motor so just going to do the motor guide.
As an added benefit it can tie in to the Simrad whereas the Minn Kota does not.

 

[PerkDaddy]

Fantastic writeup!

A couple things (electrician OCD)
I would highly recommend you put all wires in split tubing.
You should also apply dielectric grease to all electrical connections, especially the ones behind that speaker grill area. This prevents corrosion.

As far as the mount goes, you convinced me.
Ordering shuttle slide tonight.

Thanks for the tips. I'm upset with myself for not thinking about the dielectric grease. Lol. Will grab some and apply this weekend.

 

[Zackdadams]

I figured since I'll have everything torn apart to install the trolling motor, I might as well do everything I want at the same time.

So I've also ordered a VHF radio and antenna, on board battery chargers, and a few other misc items.

Hopefully I won't need anything else.
I'll post walkthroughs of the installations.

 

[LeonPhelps]

If you went with a Minn Kota (dont mind waiting) would you opt for the 87" or just stick to the 72" on a 255 FSH