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210 FSH Live well question

jjwelly

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
54
Reaction score
22
Points
67
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
21
Seem to be having an issue, I believe, with my live well not filling up to full level. It appears that the level will not hold about a white plastic fitting in the rear of the live well, just below the fill port. (See red arrow in pic). Can someone tell me what this port is, and where it goes? Does not appear to be a drain, since it's installed so low in the live well, but it appears to be acting as one. It seems to me that the drain is on the starboard side, as shown in my second pic. Thank you for any help..
 

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do you have any leaking into the rear bilge area? That inlet fitting has a small hose that connects to it on the back side that provides the air from the air inlet. My air hose hose came off the fitting was leaking into the bilge. You can hear it dripping if you listen closley. I had to remove the screws for the rear tray to get in far enough to put back on.
 
do you have any leaking into the rear bilge area? That inlet fitting has a small hose that connects to it on the back side that provides the air from the air inlet. My air hose hose came off the fitting was leaking into the bilge. You can hear it dripping if you listen closley. I had to remove the screws for the rear tray to get in far enough to put back on.
I did see water dripping into the engine bay... So there's a hose that connects to the back of this fitting, and it goes where? I'm also trying to figure out what you mean by rear tray. Is this fitting just for air?
 
I did see water dripping into the engine bay... So there's a hose that connects to the back of this fitting, and it goes where? I'm also trying to figure out what you mean by rear tray. Is this fitting just for air?
That fitting connects to the circulation pump that intakes from the screen fitting. the air line is for the aerator. The rear tray is under the hatch in the back you open to access the cleanout ports. The tray is the plastic tray that is screwed into that area. You will need to remove the screws around the edge then the hose clamps on the inside for the cleanout ports and drain. Once those are loose you have to break the sealant free from the edge and the hoses. You may be able to access that fitting without the rear tray removed but it would be tough.
1648486265905.png
 
As @lazergeek stated the screen is the aerator inlet, the aerator outlet is the fitting that your red arrow points to, if you notice on the gunwale there is a little black circle that says air inlet which is the air pick up for the aerator.

You will not be able to gain access to this pump or fittings from the rear bilge area that is accessed under the clean out tray, I’ve been rather intimate with this area lately. However, since your boat is new and under warranty, with the boat dry and on the trailer you can just pull the pop off access hatch, fill the live well to the top and then look through that pop off hatch with a good flashlight. If there is a leak you will see it, and any water that leaks should start coming out the drain plug. If you can identify that there is a leak take it back to the dealer and let them fix it, that area is a tough area to work in, and the only way I can see gaining access to the aerator is by taking a lot of stuff apart that you shouldn’t have to.

Note: when you pull the pop off hatch off and look down in there you will see a pump, but that is the fill pump not the aerator pump that you suspect as leaking.

In your pic with your arm in it, that fitting is the overflow for the live well. The live well level will drop down dramatically if you have been “boating” with it full.

Hope that helps.

By the way, how did you get a 22’ fsh ?
 
As @lazergeek stated the screen is the aerator inlet, the aerator outlet is the fitting that your red arrow points to, if you notice on the gunwale there is a little black circle that says air inlet which is the air pick up for the aerator.

You will not be able to gain access to this pump or fittings from the rear bilge area that is accessed under the clean out tray, I’ve been rather intimate with this area lately. However, since your boat is new and under warranty, with the boat dry and on the trailer you can just pull the pop off access hatch, fill the live well to the top and then look through that pop off hatch with a good flashlight. If there is a leak you will see it, and any water that leaks should start coming out the drain plug. If you can identify that there is a leak take it back to the dealer and let them fix it, that area is a tough area to work in, and the only way I can see gaining access to the aerator is by taking a lot of stuff apart that you shouldn’t have to.

Note: when you pull the pop off hatch off and look down in there you will see a pump, but that is the fill pump not the aerator pump that you suspect as leaking.

In your pic with your arm in it, that fitting is the overflow for the live well. The live well level will drop down dramatically if you have been “boating” with it full.

Hope that helps.

By the way, how did you get a 22’ fsh ?
Ok thank you. the boat is at the dealer now for it's 10 hour service, along with a list of things that I wanted them to address. I don't know how much they'll actually do, as they sort of fought back on the validity of some items. The live well was on the list, I hope they can address this. I also had issues with the extremely low trailer wheel well clearance that seems common on these. Also the throttles seem extra loose, a moment with my hand off the throttles caused boat to immediately stop. Also was frustrating with the boat not being able to be in true neutral, it wanted to pull forward in neutral, enough that I had to have a dock line connected in the rear, and only had a split second to disconnect before the boat was cruising into the boat slip.

Sorry I noticed I accidently put 22' for length, so I changed that to 21'. It's a 2022 model..
 
My dealer said the throttle issue was not an issue (I started fixing everything myself after that) On the back side of the throttle there is a plastic plate, pop that off and tighten the adjustment screws solved this for me
If they don't fix the neutral issue you just need to adjust the reverse bucket. This video covers the process.
 
My dealer said the throttle issue was not an issue (I started fixing everything myself after that) On the back side of the throttle there is a plastic plate, pop that off and tighten the adjustment screws solved this for me
If they don't fix the neutral issue you just need to adjust the reverse bucket. This video covers the process.

thank you. they told me that the throttle is a safety design, that they can adjust it some but warned me. the tech did show me how to adjust it, we'll see.
 
thank you. they told me that the throttle is a safety design, that they can adjust it some but warned me. the tech did show me how to adjust it, we'll see.

I can see them saying it is a safety design, but how are you supposed to use the cruise assist if the throttles won’t stay put? Best safety measure you can take is to make sure the engine cut off lanyard is connected to you so if you fall away from the helm the engines get shut off. I had the same issue with the port side throttle when I got my boat, just try adjusting the tension on the friction adjusters to set the throttles resistance to movement to your liking, easy peasey.
 
Dealer told me that they plan to completely remove all friction for all throttles, I believe Mercury has already done this. Agree that the best safety is the lanyard, but not many people use that..
 
Dealer told me that they plan to completely remove all friction for all throttles, I believe Mercury has already done this. Agree that the best safety is the lanyard, but not many people use that..

And those that don’t are the ones that end up getting run over by their own boat.

They plan on removing all friction from the throttles??!! That sounds, well stupid, again, considering your boat has cruise assist.
 
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