210FSH no start after top end rebuild

[landscaped1]

Well I finished putting everything back together after I had a spark plug break off in cylinder #1. See previous post for info on that.

Engine was running fine prior to spark plug breaking off during regular maintenance.
Valve cover, camshaft, timing chain and head were all removed to extract plug. Plug was removed.

Installed new head gasket and head bolts, reinstalled cam shafts and timing chain per service manual. Very confident in timing position. All was lubed with assembly lube and checked for smooth rotating. Note valves, valves caps and spacers were all left in place and not adjusted. New valve cover gasket. And all reassembled.

Now I can't get it to start. Turns over, but won't start. I have spark (pulled boot and plug and checked). I can smell fuel after it turns over when opening air box. Batteries are charged as they are easily able to start other engine with no issues.

Am I missing something? I checked all electrical connections. Pulled fuses and checked, all good. Re checked timing chain and TDC which is all still aligned.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Neutron]

Well I finished putting everything back together after I had a spark plug break off in cylinder #1. See previous post for info on that.

Engine was running fine prior to spark plug breaking off during regular maintenance.
Valve cover, camshaft, timing chain and head were all removed to extract plug. Plug was removed.

Installed new head gasket and head bolts, reinstalled cam shafts and timing chain per service manual. Very confident in timing position. All was lubed with assembly lube and checked for smooth rotating. Note valves, valves caps and spacers were all left in place and not adjusted. New valve cover gasket. And all reassembled.

Now I can't get it to start. Turns over, but won't start. I have spark (pulled boot and plug and checked). I can smell fuel after it turns over when opening air box. Batteries are charged as they are easily able to start other engine with no issues.

Am I missing something? I checked all electrical connections. Pulled fuses and checked, all good. Re checked timing chain and TDC which is all still aligned.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Did you try a compression test to make sure?

 

[Bubba7827]

My last experience with "I worked on it but now it wont start" was because, unbeknownst to me, my son had pulled the engine kill switch. But you have probably already checked that, right?

Seriously, there is a post on the main page somewhere that lists about 500 reasons the boat wont start and when I was having trouble, I went inside to pout and came across that thread. When I got to kill switch, I went out to check it and she fired up. Then I went to go look for my son.

Good luck man.

 

[BumbleBee255]

When you timed the engine, you made sure you were a TDC on the compression stroke? It is possible to be 180 degrees out on engines that have large valve clearances. Does the engine back-fire or doing anything other than turn over?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

My last experience with "I worked on it but now it wont start" was because, unbeknownst to me, my son had pulled the engine kill switch. But you have probably already checked that, right?

Seriously, there is a post on the main page somewhere that lists about 500 reasons the boat wont start and when I was having trouble, I went inside to pout and came across that thread. When I got to kill switch, I went out to check it and she fired up. Then I went to go look for my son.

Good luck man.

Is that like you and him went to the car to have a chat?

 

[landscaped1]

My last experience with "I worked on it but now it wont start" was because, unbeknownst to me, my son had pulled the engine kill switch. But you have probably already checked that, right?

Seriously, there is a post on the main page somewhere that lists about 500 reasons the boat wont start and when I was having trouble, I went inside to pout and came across that thread. When I got to kill switch, I went out to check it and she fired up. Then I went to go look for my son.

Good luck man.

Kill switch is in and clean out port hatch is closed as the other engine fires up with no issues.

I'll have to see if I can locate that post as I've looked around a fair bit for solutions.

 

[landscaped1]

When you timed the engine, you made sure you were a TDC on the compression stroke? It is possible to be 180 degrees out on engines that have large valve clearances. Does the engine back-fire or doing anything other than turn over?

At this point anything is possible. I can double check but per the service manual piston #1 is set at TDC and then camshaft are installed and aligned via marks on camshaft and camshaft caps.

When spinning engine by the coupler everything piston #1 is at TDC the marks are all still aligned.

No backfire. Can just hear it spinning over. Ignition coil and spark plug where pulled and tested to ensure spark which is happening. So I have spark and I have fuel.

I will check compression next to make sure that is good as someone had suggested.

 

[BumbleBee255]

Yep. I wasn’t thinking about you installing the cams at that point. Installing the cams is what determines the compression stroke, so as long as you have the marks all identified you should be good.

 

[TeeNGee]

Do you have any YDIS codes?
Attachment is 19 pages.

 

[Bubba7827]

Kill switch is in and clean out port hatch is closed as the other engine fires up with no issues.

I'll have to see if I can locate that post as I've looked around a fair bit for solutions.

Thread 'Engine won't start Debug list, Engine Codes, and Battery Voltage States'

May 16, 2014

• A) Engine wont turn over at all
  1. Shift Lever not in Neutral
     • Move throttle to Neutral
     • Wiggle throttle to make sure contact is clean
  2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose (swap switches/connectors if just one engine)
     • Have someone stand on hatch and retry
     • Have someone open hatch and manually depress buttons
     • Tape a dime or nickel to hatch where button hits to temp try
     • Adjust button height
  3. Blown Fuse
     • Replace fuse under cap on ECU on back wall of engine compartment (should be a spare in there--replace spare!)
     • Check fuse...

• jetboater4life
• Replies: 38
• Forum: Member Tips and Ideas

• 

 

[Bubba7827]

Is that like you and him went to the car to have a chat?

Ha. I suppose it is like that. But not like "3 guys went fishing but only 2 came back..."

 

[landscaped1]

I'll be checking compression next. Just have to get some time.

I've run down that check list and all is good there.

I'm thinking it could be a compression issue. Possibly washed cylinders as they were cleaned well prior to disassembly and may lack a thin film of oil to make the proper compression. But I'll confirm/rule this out with a compression test.

 

[landscaped1]

Sunday update. Got it started, but still needs some checking.

Started with a compression test and was getting nothing. So pulled valve cover, cam caps, cams, timing chain and chain tension. Reset timing. I believe I was actually 180 out of TDC on cylinder #1 as my timing marks were all lined up and looked good. However I spun the motor (by hand) a few time before disassbly and realized with the lack of compression the issue was most likely timing related. So TDC was reset to 180 from where I had it.

After looking at the service manual this seems to be referenced on what stroke to set TDC in a seperate area. You have to refer to the removingnof the cams to find what stroke TDC is to be set at. Which in my opinion is a bit of a fail Forsythe service manual, but I digress.

So as of now the motor fires off and will run but not 100% smooth. I'm hoping its the timing being off by a tooth. Will pull valve cover and check. Hopefully I didn't damage any valves when it was turned over a few times being 180 degrees out.

Appreciate all the help thus far. Will provide an update once I get it all sorted not.

 

[Neutron]

Sunday update. Got it started, but still needs some checking.

Started with a compression test and was getting nothing. So pulled valve cover, cam caps, cams, timing chain and chain tension. Reset timing. I believe I was actually 180 out of TDC on cylinder #1 as my timing marks were all lined up and looked good. However I spun the motor (by hand) a few time before disassbly and realized with the lack of compression the issue was most likely timing related. So TDC was reset to 180 from where I had it.

After looking at the service manual this seems to be referenced on what stroke to set TDC in a seperate area. You have to refer to the removingnof the cams to find what stroke TDC is to be set at. Which in my opinion is a bit of a fail Forsythe service manual, but I digress.

So as of now the motor fires off and will run but not 100% smooth. I'm hoping its the timing being off by a tooth. Will pull valve cover and check. Hopefully I didn't damage any valves when it was turned over a few times being 180 degrees out.

Appreciate all the help thus far. Will provide an update once I get it all sorted not.

If your timing in on do another compression test. But compression test can still show good. A leakdown test is the 100% accurate test

 

[BumbleBee255]

Being 180 out will not damage valves. All you did there was tell the ignition to fire on the exhaust stroke.

 

[landscaped1]

Being 180 out will not damage valves. All you did there was tell the ignition to fire on the exhaust stroke.

Thanks. I will be checking the timing marks and then most likely the valve clearances next.

 

[Dixemon]

Ive been off a tooth before. Use the ass end of a set of dial calipers to measure the piston height at TDC on #1, then look at your timing marks. I would recommend not turning the cam sprocket to rotate the motor or you risk jumping a tooth. I used a strap wrench on the output coupler to turn it over while checking valve clearance. Your not supposed to rotate the motor backwards, but when you get close to TDC, you can very slightly turn back to make sure you have exactly TDC indicated by the piston height measurement. Hope that helps from my own tribulations.

 

[landscaped1]

Ive been off a tooth before. Use the ass end of a set of dial calipers to measure the piston height at TDC on #1, then look at your timing marks. I would recommend not turning the cam sprocket to rotate the motor or you risk jumping a tooth. I used a strap wrench on the output coupler to turn it over while checking valve clearance. Your not supposed to rotate the motor backwards, but when you get close to TDC, you can very slightly turn back to make sure you have exactly TDC indicated by the piston height measurement. Hope that helps from my own tribulations.

Thanks. I've been using a strap wrench on the coupler to rotate the motor as I never fully removed the engine. So I did discover that trick and used a strap wrench with a rubber strap and it works like a charm.