Battery Issues

[Sean Murph]

Having some issues and thought it best to reach out to this group first. Replaced both batteries on my 242 LS and everything was fine on next trip out in water (2 weeks ago).

Took it out 2 days ago and when I started the motors, voltage was low at 8.5V (had been 12 two weeks prior). Figured they would charge while I drive 45 min to destination.

Set anchors for the day and started listening to music (house battery only). 2 hrs later, music turned off due to low voltage. Started motors and hour later and headed back to Marina. No issues but did see warning for low voltage on the Connect screen. Watched the screen as voltage continued to drop. Eventually, screen went blank and tachometers back to zero (engine still running fine).

Made it back to Marina but now I am perplexed. Not sure how this would happen on batteries 4 weeks old that were charged to full when I brought them home. Bad batteries? Bad stator?

Thank you, in advance, for your help/advice before I call a mechanic or return batteries (interstate with 2year warranty)

 

[Dave burke]

To be clear, you’re starting battery is good? Ie the problem is the house battery? I’d check the voltage of both with a multimeter and not rely only on the Connext screen.

It’s possible the house battery is bad. Given that it went down to 8.5 volts or lower, I’d be tempted to exchange it regardless. Taking a battery that low is never good for it.

A few other questions/thoughts:

- are you sure the batteries were fully charged when you took it out 2 weeks ago? Just because they’re new doesn’t mean they were fully charged

- did you turn off the battery switches when you were finished using it last time? If so, then this is another sign the house battery is bad since it shouldn’t lose charge when there’s no load on it.

- if the battery was only 8.5 volts when you went out, there’s no way the stator is strong enough to fully charge it. I think of them as top off chargers only.

Here’s how I would proceed if I were you:

- check the voltage on the starting battery. If it’s above 12.5 volts it’s probably fine. You can always get it tested if you’re not sure

- exchange the house battery and fully charge the new one with a good battery charger

- put it in the boat, test it out and then check the voltage once you’re finished using the boat

- turn off the battery switches and then check the voltage next time you use the boat. If it’s dropped more than a few tenths of a volt, you probably have a drain in the system.

 

[FX195]

Check battery voltage, fully charged batteries should be at 12.6 volts, since you have 2 batteries, check them individually. If they are both good then run engine on hose, voltage should be upwards of 13.8 volts when running

 

[TommyMcK]

One possible scenario based on the info provided...

1. Replaced both batteries and started out with both fully charged.
2. Went out, spent a few hours tied up someplace and pumped out the jams for a bunch of hours on the house battery. Then rode back to the dock without much chance to fully charge the house battery while underway.
3. Came back to the boat a couple of weeks later and noticed that the house battery was low before starting.
4. Rode along for 45 minutes to partially charge the house battery.
5. Spent 2 more hours on the house battery tied up someplace and fully drained it.

Quite possible that nothing is wrong with either the battery or the charging system. I think that a bunch of folks assume that they can spend hours on the house battery and that it'll be fully charged on the trip home. It won't be typically, and if you rely on it for hours at a time while out on the water, you'll need to hook it to a charger when you get back home unless your trip back takes hours.

 

[Sean Murph]

To be clear, you’re starting battery is good? Ie the problem is the house battery? I’d check the voltage of both with a multimeter and not rely only on the Connext screen.

It’s possible the house battery is bad. Given that it went down to 8.5 volts or lower, I’d be tempted to exchange it regardless. Taking a battery that low is never good for it.

A few other questions/thoughts:

- are you sure the batteries were fully charged when you took it out 2 weeks ago? Just because they’re new doesn’t mean they were fully charged

- did you turn off the battery switches when you were finished using it last time? If so, then this is another sign the house battery is bad since it shouldn’t lose charge when there’s no load on it.

- if the battery was only 8.5 volts when you went out, there’s no way the stator is strong enough to fully charge it. I think of them as top off chargers only.

Here’s how I would proceed if I were you:

- check the voltage on the starting battery. If it’s above 12.5 volts it’s probably fine. You can always get it tested if you’re not sure

- exchange the house battery and fully charge the new one with a good battery charger

- put it in the boat, test it out and then check the voltage once you’re finished using the boat

- turn off the battery switches and then check the voltage next time you use the boat. If it’s dropped more than a few tenths of a volt, you probably have a drain in the system.

Thank you for all of the great information, To answer your question, I did bring both batteries home, after purchasing, and put them on a solid charger until they were fully charged. Yes, I am always sure I turn the all battery switches off to avid an drain on the battery while the boat sits in the high and dry.

Based on your information, I am going to test both batteries tomorrow with a volt meter and will planning on pulling the house battery for replacement. I will begin testing everything in the boat as you recommended and hope this solves the problem. If not, then I may hire a mobile mechanic to see if there is a excess drain on the battery somewhere.

Again, your help is much appreciated.

 

[TommyMcK]

I still think it is way more likely that you just never fully charged the house battery after draining it. It is not very likely that it is leaking pas the switch.

It is far more likely that the "problem" is that you need to put the house battery on a charger when you get back from your time on the water based on the amount of time that you spend tied up vs the amount of time you spend with the engine running.

 

[zipper]

FYI... A fully charged battery at rest is 12.7-12.8V. I just put two new deep cycle L/A house batteries in our boat on Sunday. Their resting voltage(s) off the shelf at Oreilly Auto was 12.81V and 12.82V. Got 5 years from the last set.

battery state of charge - Google Search

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

You said you brought the batteries home and put them on a solid charger. What is a solid charger?
Do you have an on board charger that you leave plugged in when the boat is not in use?-I assume not just need to clarify.
Was this scenario happening with your old batteries that you replaced?
Is your boat wet slipped ?

What was going on voltage wise with the start battery while all this was happening? Did it’s voltage increase while the engines were on? If so, what was its peak voltage?

While @Dave burke could certainly be correct that the house battery could be bad, it sounds like the DVSR has stopped working. Make sure the ground wire for the DVSR is connected to the start battery, it’s a small / thin black wire that comes off of the battery switch cluster. Once the voltage on the start battery comes up to 13.4 volts the DVSR should close the switch paralleling the start and house batteries and this begins charging the house battery, there’s a small red indicator light on the DVSR module that comes on when the switch is closed. The DVSR will open the switch when the voltage drops to 12.7 volts breaking parallel between the start and house batteries.

When a lead flooded lead acid battery reaches 8.5 volts its history and needs replacing.

Unless a mechanic is intimately aware with Yamaha boats I would shy away from that person and take it to a dealer. There have been several stories on this site that I’ve read that did not turn out well with a mobile mechanic.

 

[Sean Murph]

You said you brought the batteries home and put them on a solid charger. What is a solid charger?
Do you have an on board charger that you leave plugged in when the boat is not in use?-I assume not just need to clarify.
Was this scenario happening with your old batteries that you replaced?
Is your boat wet slipped ?

What was going on voltage wise with the start battery while all this was happening? Did it’s voltage increase while the engines were on? If so, what was its peak voltage?

While @Dave burke could certainly be correct that the house battery could be bad, it sounds like the DVSR has stopped working. Make sure the ground wire for the DVSR is connected to the start battery, it’s a small / thin black wire that comes off of the battery switch cluster. Once the voltage on the start battery comes up to 13.4 volts the DVSR should close the switch paralleling the start and house batteries and this begins charging the house battery, there’s a small red indicator light on the DVSR module that comes on when the switch is closed. The DVSR will open the switch when the voltage drops to 12.7 volts breaking parallel between the start and house batteries.

When a lead flooded lead acid battery reaches 8.5 volts its history and needs replacing.

Unless a mechanic is intimately aware with Yamaha boats I would shy away from that person and take it to a dealer. There have been several stories on this site that I’ve read that did not turn out well with a mobile mechanic.

Good morning. When I mentioned "solid" charger, I simply meant that I have a reliable charger that I use to charge my batteries when I am home. Unfortunately (or fortunately), I keep my boat at a high and dry about 30 miles from my house and I only have access to power at the high and dry when its been pulled down and placed on a rack for maintenance, washing, etc. (so time on charge is not ideal) I was concerned about this and although I wanted to invest in a NOCO setup to take care of charging, etc. it's just not physically possible at this marina. I am sure I am not the only boat owner at this marina that has this challenge?

Honestly, I had a different Yamaha boat back in 2012 at a similar high and dry and did not seem to have battery issues as a result of NOT being able to charge after a day in the water. I guess that allowed me to think this would be acceptable as well. Maybe I am wrong!?

I will be heading out to the boat tomorrow to check voltage, etc and potentially pull the battery(s) for replacement I will also look into the wiring setup that you have mentioned. I understand your comment about a mechanic versus dealer and I will take it under advisement. Guess I was just tired of getting ripped off by my dealer and was hoping for a better solution that took less time out of water!

Thank you for taking the time to explain everything and offer suggestions. This is why I love this group, so very helpful.

I will post with any progress I have!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for the nice reply! Yes this site is loaded with people who want to help out.

There are some solutions people in your situation have come up with to charging their batteries, the short version is that they installed an onboard charger and used a Jackery to power the onboard charger while on the water, then bring the Jackery home and charge it.

Flooded lead acid batteries as well as AGM batteries take a long time to charge properly, the bulk part of the charge will bring the battery up to 80%, but the absorption phase can take up to eight hours. So for you, you’ll be able to get the batteries up to 80% on the water easily, just be sure you get at least a 10 amp per battery charger.

Maybe set your battery connections up so that removing a battery can be done without tools by using a knob style of attachment nut. You could land all of the positive and negative connections on respective busses so that there are only two wires going to each battery, this would make removing a battery to take it home for a charge as easy as possible.

 

[zipper]

Thanks for the nice reply! Yes this site is loaded with people who want to help out…

…Maybe set your battery connections up so that removing a battery can be done without tools by using a knob style of attachment nut. You could land all of the positive and negative connections on respective busses so that there are only two wires going to each battery, this would make removing a battery to take it home for a charge as easy as possible.

Yes, but do not use “wing nuts”, they are not allowed under USCG regs.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I was

Yes, but do not use “wing nuts”, they are not allowed under USCG regs.

View attachment 201008

thinking of these…

https://www.amazon.com/LOK-KNOBSTM-Battery-Terminal-Connector-Thread/dp/B09Z8MGX5G

 

[zipper]

I was

thinking of these…

https://www.amazon.com/LOK-KNOBSTM-Battery-Terminal-Connector-Thread/dp/B09Z8MGX5G

View attachment 201028

IDK...I don't think those qualify as "permanent type connector". I see quick connects online but all for non marine battery type. At least for vessels over 4 persons. Motor Kayaker's may get away with it. Because we slip right next to USCG Burlington and I like to be in compliance, I would use hex nuts and just keep a socket on a "T" handle by the batteries for a Q.R.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

IDK...I don't think those qualify as "permanent type connector". I see quick connects online but all for non marine battery type. At least for vessels over 4 persons. Motor Kayaker's may get away with it. Because we slip right next to USCG Burlington and I like to be in compliance, I would use hex nuts and just keep a socket on a "T" handle by the batteries for a Q.R.

Right on…. Just tossing something out there that could make life easy. Soooo… maybe you could ask one of the coasties what they think?

So that would probably eliminate one of those heavy duty plugs that could be used to connect or disconnect batteries?

I do get having a permanent type of connection so nothing would come loose.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I posed this question and got an answer pretty fast.

 

[Sean Murph]

Check battery voltage, fully charged batteries should be at 12.6 volts, since you have 2 batteries, check them individually. If they are both good then run engine on hose, voltage should be upwards of 13.8 volts when running

Thank you sir. Headed out to the boat tomorrow with my volt meter, etc to check all of this.

 

[Sean Murph]

I was

thinking of these…

https://www.amazon.com/LOK-KNOBSTM-Battery-Terminal-Connector-Thread/dp/B09Z8MGX5G

View attachment 201028

LOL. I was thinking the same. Just ordered 2 sets! Thanks for the link/info.

 

[FX195]

General info..

 

[TommyMcK]

It should be kept in mind that charts like the one above apply to a battery that is not under load. That is not the case for the voltage that you read on your Conext with the display fired up, and maybe the blower is on and whatnot.

 

[FX195]

Correct, battery voltage should be checked with no load at batteries, best to just disconnect both terminals and use multimeter with test leads.