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I would worry about heat transfer on the rejex. Applications should be done in the shade below 85 degrees. You truly would waste it as well using a buffer. A orbital maybe.
I would buff first , and do then wash. I use the 3m compound and 3m finesse it
I don't mind putting it on by hand. I was just curious. I do also have a very basic orbital so maybe I'll go that route. Thanks for the input!
Imo you are wasteing effort with the buffer or orbital. A simple wax pad by hand is all you need. It truly is a easy on and easy off.
Good question, I have Rejexed the stickers. Figured they designed Rejex for RVs which have a lot of vinyl and those hull stickers are vinyl.
It shouldn't be any reason to avoid the stickers that I can see. You're protecting the stickers with the application as well.
I applied it to all the graphics. I think it will help protect them and it really shined them up and made them pop.
Interested in your impressions of it!
just a fyi, Nu finish has silicone, rejex does not.
coreex.blogspot.com
After my dad passed away, I was going through his car care stuff, and I found and used his NuFinish on my black snow blower. While it was awesome for that, I HATED the application. It may have been old or something, but I would not call it a nice process. It seemed far more difficult than it should to buff out. I saved it to use on the snowmower again, because it WAS better than anything else I'd used. It makes sense that the silicone helped with snow, and when the time comes to repaint it, it'll be taken down to bare metal, so I'm not worried about adhesion.
Actually if you do some research I think will find that waxing the bottom of the boat makes it go slower. I've been told that boat racers typically scuff the bottom of their boats to allow for less friction. I know it sound counterintuitive but if you have a non-waxed surface the water "sticks" to it (think of a waxed car where the water runs off but an unwaxed car the water kinda "sticks to the surface"). So you say, well if water doesn't stick to a waxed bottom, it will be slicker right? Well the kicker is that there is less friction with water on water and more friction with water on gel coat. So you actually want some water to be "sticking" to the bottom of the boat to allow for less friction with the running water. At least this is how I remember it explained to me way back when. Could this all be full of shit? Absolutely, my wife thinks that about stuff I tell her all the time. But its what I remember from somewhere in my past - do your own research, if nothing else its an interesting concept to look into.<waxing the bottom of the boat> I do. Helps to go faster...
That is correct. The ultimate there are stepped hulls (with a chine across).Actually if you do some research I think will find that waxing the bottom of the boat makes it go slower. I've been told that boat racers typically scuff the bottom of their boats to allow for less friction. I know it sound counterintuitive but if you have a non-waxed surface the water "sticks" to it (think of a waxed car where the water runs off but an unwaxed car the water kinda "sticks to the surface"). So you say, well if water doesn't stick to a waxed bottom, it will be slicker right? Well the kicker is that there is less friction with water on water and more friction with water on gel coat. So you actually want some water to be "sticking" to the bottom of the boat to allow for less friction with the running water. At least this is how I remember it explained to me way back when. Could this all be full of shit? Absolutely, my wife thinks that about stuff I tell her all the time. But its what I remember from somewhere in my past - do your own research, if nothing else its an interesting concept to look into.
Edit: Obviously this affect either way would likely be negligible except in racing where every millisecond counts.