Buying a Yamaha FSH 195 sport, need advice

[Ozzyj93]

Hi everyone. Thanks again for all the feedback. It is very much appreciated. I’ve been doing a lot of research on basically everything. I have a few questions about the maintenance of the boat itself, in terms of cleaning it. I’ll be using it in salt water so based on my research here’s what my cleaning will consist of (P.S. feel free to call me out if it’s overkill. I’m really not sure. I can be very meticulous about cleaning and maintaining expensive items):

-SaltAway: I will use to flush regularly when I am done for the day. Can I use SaltAway mixed with soap to wash the hull and inside?
-CorrosionX: will use to spray the engine every few months. May use on battery cables as well
-Dek Magic: will use for the seadek/mat
-303 cleaner/UV protectant: I will use this on all the vinyl/upholstery
-Regular soap for hull and inside (mixed with SaltAway?): I plan to buy regular soap. Maybe buy a big one at Costco to use one I pressure wash with fresh water

If there’s anything else I should keep in mind or use to maintain all the cables and electronics in the helm, please let me know ? I think someone mentioned to spray silicone inside the helm on the electronics. And then wax for the cables by the bottom of the stern.

Also, with corrosion X there as a protectant, how often should I wash down the engine? If at all? I read somewhere I can just scrub it?
Thanks again all!

 

[Ozzyj93]

Got it! This whole time I thought those cables were in the helm lol. Thank you

Slide off the black rubber boots/jackets from where the steering and reverse cables, apply the wax and then slide the boots back in place. Stock photo found online, and I circled the areas.

View attachment 199467

What kind of wax are you referring to? I’ve searched toilet bowl wax but all I find is wax rings. Do you break that up to coat the cables?

 

[VitaminSea]

Yes, Jeff’s recommendation was toilet bowl wax ring. Couple bucks at Home Depot.

Also for washing, you mentioned soap, just be certain it’s not a soap that will strip your wax.

Starbrite boat wash is rather inexpensive, seems to do a good job, a little goes a long way and as a plus claims to be biodegradable.

It’s your boat and investment of money and time, so keep a routine that you are happy with.

You can rinse the boat with salt away if you feel the need, however it’s not a good sudsy soap IMO for scrubbing (it will foam up during the flush process).

Also many on the forum like Rejex or other sealants (Graphine, Ceramic), as they reduce residue/dirt from sticking to the hull sides as well as cuts back on water spots and leaves a nice shine.

 

[Ozzyj93]

Hey guys. In the video the person mentions using corrosion X on the engine once a year I believe? Today, when I picked up my boat they tell me I needed to spray it after every use?

 

[Ozzyj93]

Hello eveyrone! Happy Mother’s Day!

Finally got my FSH 195 and it’s now in my home ??? Question on the 303 products. There seems to be a few kinds… I ordered the UV protectant boat wash, but realized I also ordered Star Brite soap. So I’m thinking I’ll alternate between the two. I read on here I should use 303 fabric guard for the upholstery after washing with 303 wash or soap. Is this effective?

Also, my t top is mesh or mesh like (not sure the exact material), so I need to protect that fabric from the sun as my boat sits in my yard, and although it’s got a mooring cover, the t-top is exposed, so want to make sure I protect against UV. Will 303 fabric guard do the job?

Thank you!! And hope you all enjoyed and continue to enjoy Mother’s Day!

 

[Dixemon]

303 fabric guard will get the job done for your T-top, If it is removable take it off and lay it on the ground to treat it. I would strongly advise against spraying your entire motor down with corrosion X, in my opinion that is overkill and once you smell it cooking on your motor you will understand. not to mention it is a greasy mess. Don't get me wrong it is a great product, and I would certainly give your trailer leaf springs and all components except brakes a bath in it. Pay attention where the aluminum rails on the trailer meet the galvanized components, spray those mating surfaces as well.

 

[Ozzyj93]

303 fabric guard will get the job done for your T-top, If it is removable take it off and lay it on the ground to treat it. I would strongly advise against spraying your entire motor down with corrosion X, in my opinion that is overkill and once you smell it cooking on your motor you will understand. not to mention it is a greasy mess. Don't get me wrong it is a great product, and I would certainly give your trailer leaf springs and all components except brakes a bath in it. Pay attention where the aluminum rails on the trailer meet the galvanized components, spray those mating surfaces as well.

Thank you, this is helpful. Instead of corrosion X would silicone be better to spray engines? Or is flushing and just hosing the engines with SaltAway should be enough?

 

[VitaminSea]

Congrats on getting the boat home!

looks like you got all of your supplies lined up.

As for the protecting the engine bay from corrosion, you might have to find what you like the best.

CorrosionX HD is great for the hose gaskets, and will certainly hole up for the year. Standard CorrosionX will probably need to be reapplied a few times a year. Silicon spray or the Yamaha branded protective spray, probably every other outing. Having tried the White Silicone spray that was suggested by Jeff, so can’t speak to the lasting effect.

You don’t need to be as liberal as Will was in the video with the CorrosionX or as Dixemon mentions you will find a pool at the bottom of the bilge.

Trial and error and you will figure out your routine.

 

[Ozzyj93]

Congrats on getting the boat home!

looks like you got all of your supplies lined up.

As for the protecting the engine bay from corrosion, you might have to find what you like the best.

CorrosionX HD is great for the hose gaskets, and will certainly hole up for the year. Standard CorrosionX will probably need to be reapplied a few times a year. Silicon spray or the Yamaha branded protective spray, probably every other outing. Having tried the White Silicone spray that was suggested by Jeff, so can’t speak to the lasting effect.

You don’t need to be as liberal as Will was in the video with the CorrosionX or as Dixemon mentions you will find a pool at the bottom of the bilge.

Trial and error and you will figure out your routine.

Thank you! Yeah I def won’t spray as much as in the video. You and Will both mention to apply the corrosion X a few times a year. But won’t washing the engine with salt away, remove the corrosion X after a few washes?

 

[Dixemon]

@VitaminSea is correct, you find what you like regarding the CPC's. Big thing is leave all your hatches open and let your boat dry out completely after every time you wash it. If you can for a couple of days, or use a fan to move air through hull spaces. Bad things happen when there is humidity trapped in your engine bay, electrical bays ect.. If you keep everything coated with something, and dry and clean you will be fine.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Look at Empire Covers. Their universal type cover will fit over the top of your entire boat. I have the mooring cover as well but rarely use it because it leaves the T top exposed. I’ve also found that I can put the Empire cover on and remove it much much faster and easier than the mooring cover.

For the water spots you will have get a household pump sprayer and fill it with a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water. Spray say half of one side with this and hit it with a soft brush or rag and rinse. Do the same with the rest of the boat and dry with a towel. This removes water spots super fast and then the surface is ready for wax.

I use this spray on wax. Super easy to apply and lasts
Quite a while.

Amazon.com

 

[Ozzyj93]

Look at Empire Covers. Their universal type cover will fit over the top of your entire boat. I have the mooring cover as well but rarely use it because it leaves the T top exposed. I’ve also found that I can put the Empire cover on and remove it much much faster and easier than the mooring cover.

For the water spots you will have get a household pump sprayer and fill it with a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water. Spray say half of one side with this and hit it with a soft brush or rag and rinse. Do the same with the rest of the boat and dry with a towel. This removes water spots super fast and then the surface is ready for wax.

I use this spray on wax. Super easy to apply and lasts
Quite a while.

Amazon.com

Thanks! Is wax necessary? Or what is that used for? I only have stains on the deck. No water spots on hull or anywhere else since it’s new and hasn’t seen water. Theres also dark marks on the rails of the boat. I’ll use vinegar for that!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks! Is wax necessary? Or what is that used for? I only have stains on the deck. No water spots on hull or anywhere else since it’s new and hasn’t seen water. Theres also dark marks on the rails of the boat. I’ll use vinegar for that!

I’d wax all of the vertical surfaces….inside and out, But Never where you step!!

Star Brite makes a great deck cleaner.

 

[Ozzyj93]

My complaint about using corrosion x is the grease slick on the bottom of the bilge that collects dirt and grime. I prefer the Yamalube silicone spray instead.

I actually gave corrosion x a trial run today by applying it to the front of my trailer just to see what it was like. The red bottle is a green greasy substance and comes out pretty foamy. I found myself throwing away lots of it. Is there a more efficient way to apply the corrosion X? I plan using it on the trailer and some parts of the boat. Might opt to use Yamaha silicone spray for engine for the reasons mentioned, thanks!

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Use white lithium grease on the engine and the pump body, I only run in salt water and put a 1000 hours on them with no issues with one coat on the engine and spraying the pump a few times times a year, do not spray the anodes on the pumps though.