Clean out port jammed

[IA_210SX]

Try wrapping a rope aound the handle and then use an oar to wrap the other end of the rope around and pull up. Always worked on my 2010 210. Mine always got stuck as they expanded over the season when left on my lift.

 

[PlaneDriver]

Try wrapping a rope aound the handle and then use an oar to wrap the other end of the rope around and pull up. Always worked on my 2010 210. Mine always got stuck as they expanded over the season when left on my lift.

That’s my next move. Thank you!!

 

[drewkaree]

Does the thing that I circle need to be in line with the set mark to be able to pull it? Or do I need to use brute force to pull it straight out?

I'm at a disadvantage as I can't access my boat, but if I remember correctly, yes. That piece is part of the next piece underneath the metal plate, and it should move when you're installing them (correctly, sorry LOL) and locking them in place.

If whoever managed to install them like that had to do so with force, then they did it wrong, and that's what's jamming up the plug. It'll likely have to be removed with equal or more force, as you can see the metal ears/tabs all seem to be in the proper orientation for simple removal by pulling straight up.

I don't envy you, as you'll likely need to force it up from below.

 

[drewkaree]

Try wrapping a rope aound the handle and then use an oar to wrap the other end of the rope around and pull up. Always worked on my 2010 210. Mine always got stuck as they expanded over the season when left on my lift.

I'd go another way. The reason being, if you damage that handle, you're having to buy a whole new plug.

If you get a jack and a 2x4 or something long/strong enough, you should be able to push up from below using the jack. If you damage the bottom of the plug, you just need to buy a rebuild kit and you're back in business for a lot less money if something gets damaged.

Add some padding to the 2x4 to help try to avoid damaging the lower part of the plug

The plus for you is that you look to be in position for it to pop right out in the position it's currently in

 

[PlaneDriver]

I'd go another way. The reason being, if you damage that handle, you're having to buy a whole new plug.

If you get a jack and a 2x4 or something long/strong enough, you should be able to push up from below using the jack. If you damage the bottom of the plug, you just need to buy a rebuild kit and you're back in business for a lot less money if something gets damaged.

Add some padding to the 2x4 to help try to avoid damaging the lower part of the plug

The plus for you is that you look to be in position for it to pop right out in the position it's currently in

Thanks for all the help. I will try doing that soon!!!!

 

[drewkaree]

Thanks for all the help. I will try doing that soon!!!!

See if you can grab a needle nosed vice grips to remove that middle screw, or get a stripped screw extractor set like this (you're gonna need it anyway): Click here for link to screw extractor set

Home Depot/Lowes/Menards/Ace Hardware SHOULD have something like this, but not sure if it's gonna be in stock. If you can get that screw out, you very well may just be able to pull that next movable plate out without having to resort to the jack. The link in my signature goes to a thread where I showed the disassembly of that style of cleanout plug. These aren't difficult at all to disassemble, except as you've found out, the first time it's done. The thread sealant, shown in the 5th pic, is likely what caused you to strip the screw.

The plastic tab that seems to be jamming your plug in there is clearly shown in multiple pics at that link. I was incorrect earlier, you can see that single center screw is holding the metal plate to the bottom piece of the plug, but the part that seems to be stuck is below that, and held to the bottom piece of the plug with 6 additional screws. That's it, that's the ball game, I believe. Get those 7 screws removed, and you should be able to remove it from the topside with something like a radiator hose removal pick or other hooked tool.

At the least, you need to remove your stripped screw. Once that's done, the other 6 screws had no sealant on them in my case, so you may be able to simply lift that right out, or be able to get a screwdriver in there for leverage or something easier and less likely to damage stuff.

DO NOT lose the two white pieces, and the springs that they sit on. I haven't seen them for sale without buying a whole new plug, and currently running $165 EACH for your boat.

To be quite honest, I don't know what that plastic tab does. Seems to align and place those springs and white bits with a friction fit and just enough pressure to keep the white bits in the molded spots provided. IF you end up having to buy a new plug, I'd be willing to experiment with the (potentially) damaged one, but I'm hoping for your sake it doesn't come to fruition.

 

[TommyMcK]

That’s my next move. Thank you!!

Similar theory, but I use a fish hook with a long handle. That works better for me than a rope because the hook allows you to impart a concussive force that seems to work better to get things un-stuck. The couple of inches of travel that you get in the upwards direction before contact with the handle seems to do the trick.

I'm not sure what principle is at work with these plugs, but they are never easy for me. I can pull the plugs, clean and lubricate them put them back in and 30 seconds later they won't easily come out. The hook always does the trick through within a few sharp tugs upwards.

This all assumes that the plugs are aligned in the removal position. If something is misaligned or otherwise cockeyed, that's a different story.

 

[PlaneDriver]

See if you can grab a needle nosed vice grips to remove that middle screw, or get a stripped screw extractor set like this (you're gonna need it anyway): Click here for link to screw extractor set

Home Depot/Lowes/Menards/Ace Hardware SHOULD have something like this, but not sure if it's gonna be in stock. If you can get that screw out, you very well may just be able to pull that next movable plate out without having to resort to the jack. The link in my signature goes to a thread where I showed the disassembly of that style of cleanout plug. These aren't difficult at all to disassemble, except as you've found out, the first time it's done. The thread sealant, shown in the 5th pic, is likely what caused you to strip the screw.

The plastic tab that seems to be jamming your plug in there is clearly shown in multiple pics at that link. I was incorrect earlier, you can see that single center screw is holding the metal plate to the bottom piece of the plug, but the part that seems to be stuck is below that, and held to the bottom piece of the plug with 6 additional screws. That's it, that's the ball game, I believe. Get those 7 screws removed, and you should be able to remove it from the topside with something like a radiator hose removal pick or other hooked tool.

At the least, you need to remove your stripped screw. Once that's done, the other 6 screws had no sealant on them in my case, so you may be able to simply lift that right out, or be able to get a screwdriver in there for leverage or something easier and less likely to damage stuff.

DO NOT lose the two white pieces, and the springs that they sit on. I haven't seen them for sale without buying a whole new plug, and currently running $165 EACH for your boat.

To be quite honest, I don't know what that plastic tab does. Seems to align and place those springs and white bits with a friction fit and just enough pressure to keep the white bits in the molded spots provided. IF you end up having to buy a new plug, I'd be willing to experiment with the (potentially) damaged one, but I'm hoping for your sake it doesn't come to fruition.

I’m gonna give that a try again. Thanks

 

[seanmclean]

I don't think that pulling (or pushing up from below) will help. Everytime my plug has been hard to twist, downward pressure has been the trick - its not moving because the dogs are being pressed up against the base plate.

 

[TommyMcK]

I don't think that pulling (or pushing up from below) will help. Everytime my plug has been hard to twist, downward pressure has been the trick - its not moving because the dogs are being pressed up against the base plate.

Absolutely. I may have mis-interpreted the picture and description, but it looked like the plug was already rotated to the remove-position, but just wouldn't come out. Upward pressure definitely won't help if you can't rotate the plug to the right place.

I never have a problem rotating the plug, just removing it.

 

[PlaneDriver]

Thank you all for the help. I was able to take it apart and pull it piece by piece without damaging the boat.
‍

 

[drewkaree]

That's awesome to hear. How did you end up getting that center screw out, what tools did you use? Was that black plastic layer easy to remove after all the screws were removed, or was it wedged in there enough to need to use more tools to pull it up?

I'd recommend you remove and disassemble the other plug to avoid the same issues perhaps while out on the water, or at least pack the same tools you used into your boat tools.

How bad does that tab look, or did it bounce back fine?

I don't think that pulling (or pushing up from below) will help. Everytime my plug has been hard to twist, downward pressure has been the trick - its not moving because the dogs are being pressed up against the base plate.

He's got the new style of plug that no longer has the dogs that the previous style has. Everything below that metal plate with the single screw is plastic, and should give.

@TommyMcK is describing the typical experience, zero issues with rotation. Your removal issues can likely be addressed with some lube to the rubber ring around the plug, unless you're referring to difficulty removing it from the top deck of the tube

The black ring moves, and @PlaneDriver had a salesman who is clearly not familiar with these boats, or the concept of "if you have to force it, stop and take a look at it first, because you're probably doing it wrong"

The position this plug was in was perfectly aligned to allow removal except for the plastic tab. The plastic was never going to be able to be rotated to the removal position without trying to turn the plug to the locked position, and then back to the set position. Even then, there's no guarantee that it would turn back within that area since it was forced into the wrong position to start. Back out the same way it got there meant upward force for only 1/2" or less, vs 2 turns of over an inch each.

The last guy who REALLY messed his plug up did so by forcing his plug as well, when it was turned 180° out of position. He never tried to disassemble the plug, and mentioned that turning it was terribly difficult, that's why I suggested going from the bottom up. Anything destroyed would be plastic, and easily replaceable, in addition to being less distance required to free the plug.

Disassembly is the first and least damaging thing to do, but the people that have gotten into this situation all report that force is what started the problem to begin with, and likely impatience.

The new plug style requires 2-3 fingers, at most, to install if everything is positioned correctly, and slight sticking is your indicator that the rubber ring needs lubrication, that's the extent of effort to install or remove these plugs

 

[PlaneDriver]

I used a Philips screwdriver to remove all the screws and since I stripped the middle screw that holds the metal piece, I had to use one of those screw extractor with a 12” attachment to be able to reach the screw. After I removed the metal piece, I removed the 6 screws holding the plastic piece. Then I used the paint can lid opener to pull on the plastic thing that was jammed against the wall (I inserted the lid opener in one of the holes to pull on the plastic piece). After that it was easy sailing. I pulled the last part of the plug and re installed all the pieces in reverse order.