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Engine hatch insulation suggestions

Scottintexas

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Location
Corinth, TX (DFW)
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
@swatski @Beachbummer @zipper

I have to replace my disintegrating engine hatch insulation. I have no expectations of it really doing much sound deadening.

I need something cost effective and easy to apply, I'm very challenged when it comes to finish work, suggestions??



.
 
@swatski @Beachbummer @zipper

I have to replace my disintegrating engine hatch insulation. I have no expectations of it really doing much sound deadening.

I need something cost effective and easy to apply, I'm very challenged when it comes to finish work, suggestions??



.
Having done it extensively in my old 190, I would not spend money on any expensive mass loaded material like dynamat extreme, those things work wonder on sheet metal but not fiberglass.
Any egg-foam mat like what Yamaha uses in newer boats would do. The key is the seal, just be careful not to overdo it with whatever insulation so that you do not pop the hinges from excessive leverage.

 
thanks, so I should mention I would prefer something that has some sort of finish/paper on top so that it won't deteriorate and dust again,

it's been dusting since about year 3
 
I did mine last year...

If you use a vacuum to pick up the bits, don't point the vacuum exhaust inside the boat, everything will turn black.

Wear gloves, because there is exposed fiber under it.

My fit and finish was not great, but it worked out.
 
Subscribed..
 
I have not done any soundproofing mods yet...my factory egg crate foam is intact. I am considering adding a rubber "bulb seal" around the engine bay hatch to seal it.

Most of the mods and upgrades over the last two seasons have been on the 28 yo boat.
 
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Having never done this, and simply throwing out ideas at this point, how about XPS insulation board? It can be fastened with adhesives to the underside and won't disintegrate like the egg crate, but if you want some more sound deadening, you could use the same fastening adhesive to stick some egg crate foam to the XPS.

If they could figure out an adhesive for Rockboard insulation boards , I'd think that'd be perfect for this application, but it requires mechanical fastening for long-term use. If you're willing and serious, you could use an adhesive to put some plywood on the underside of your hatch, then use mechanical fasteners for the Rockboard that way. It doesn't absorb water, doesn't rot or mold, insulates, and acts as a sound deadener as well.
 
What about using putty pads on some of the cabling and opening holes in the engine compartment. Not the air intakes of course. And on the sides just outside of the engine compartment some type of sound curtain. Putty pads are similar to the following:


When I go back to my acoustics class in college, hard shells like fiberglass etc make resonators or "sound tubes". If we seal or wrap the exit holes it may deaden or eliminate some of the sound waves. Play your phone on your favorite rock song and place the speaker end in a large glass or cup...you'll see what I mean.

What's funny is I used to work in another division of Yamaha and focused on creating sound waves, resonance, etc. Now...trying to stop it....the ying and yang of life.
 
I have been thinking of trying rockwool. I think it is available at HD. I would just lay it over the engines to start to see if it works. And if it worked, I would replace the ¼" nuts holding the upholstery with ¼" threaded couplings in order to fasten it in place more permanently with ¼" bolts.
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I'm just starting the replacement of the insulation on my 2005 SX230. The factory insulation had deteriorated to the point where I could vacuum it off the hatch. I'm going to try Design Engineering Boom Mat , on Amazon for $60 for 12 sqft. I've read a number of posts here and on the Yamaha Jet Boater site that sound insulation does make a difference, hence the effort. Additionally, I have seen posts of guys adding (for lack of a better term) weather seal to the cockpit side of the engine bay. The reason for that is that they found gaps in the seal along the engine hatch. My guess is that if the new insulation is placed properly and is of sufficient thickness, such seal shouldn't be necessary. Question of the moment: even though I can get the old insulation off super easy, the adhesive remains on the engine hatch. I've tried acetone, laquer thinner and Goof Off to try to get it off, without much luck. Anyone have success with getting the original adhesive off, or did you just apply over the old adhesive??? Thanks!
 
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Mine is not as old a boat as yours, but I pried my old insulation off (didn't have to use a vacuum--yet) and then reattached it with just more adhesive over top. If you can't get the adhesive off, then I would suspect that it is stuck on there well enough that it won't let loose and cause a problem. I would go right over it...
 
Thanks and I was thinking the same thing as I was trying to scrape the stuff off - if it has lasted this long and is resisting all my efforts so far, probably good to apply over......we'll see, thanks again!
 
Mine is not as old a boat as yours, but I pried my old insulation off (didn't have to use a vacuum--yet) and then reattached it with just more adhesive over top. If you can't get the adhesive off, then I would suspect that it is stuck on there well enough that it won't let loose and cause a problem. I would go right over it...
What adhesive did you use to place the foam back? My engine compartment foam is starting to fall off on my 2013. Seems fully intact so I had planned on gluing it back.
 

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That is what I had read but wanted to confirm. Thank you.
Follow the instructions --- a lot of people skip over the... "apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to get tacky before sticking together"
 
Good point let it tack up both sides and don't get in a hurry.
 
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