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Engine hatch insulation suggestions

I peeled off my original hatch foam carefully, not to tear it.
Laid on a layer of KillMat, then applied contact cement
Reapplied the factory foam back on top of the KillMat. Then applied spray adhesive
Finally, I added this sound deadener over the OEM foam.
She's quiet.
Heres a link to the top foam. Amazon.comhatch Foam Installed.pnghatch Foam Installed.pngHAtch foam.png
 
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Follow the instructions --- a lot of people skip over the... "apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to get tacky before sticking together"
I will for sure!

do you think it would be worth adding some aluminum backed dampening material to the fiberglass then gluing the foam over top of that? I have a box laying around and while I’m working on it I thought I might help. There seems to be a lot of variations and results out there for reducing engine noise
 
Have you been out on the water since you installed the foam? Any worries about the heat inside the engine compartment? I am in the middle of laying the killmat now, I might look at covering the killmat with the foam since the 195's only have a piece of foam that does not cover the entire engine cowling. What thickness of killmat did you go with?
 
Anybody ever use DynaMat or DynaCore? Used the DynaMat on many of my old Square body chewy restorations and worked very well. Looks like they have a marine version as well.
 
Anybody ever use DynaMat or DynaCore? Used the DynaMat on many of my old Square body chewy restorations and worked very well. Looks like they have a marine version as well.

I bought a couple sheets of 1'' DynaCore (after removing the stock foam after it started to fall off and melt onto the engine). I haven't installed the DynaCore yet. Maybe Friday.

Right now, I'm thinking I'll cover (a) the underside of the engine hatch with the first sheet (which is just barely bigger than the hatch), then cut up the second sheet to cover (b) the undersides of the two lockers that flank the engine hatch, and (c) the firewall between the engine bay and cockpit.
 
Have you been out on the water since you installed the foam? Any worries about the heat inside the engine compartment? I am in the middle of laying the killmat now, I might look at covering the killmat with the foam since the 195's only have a piece of foam that does not cover the entire engine cowling. What thickness of killmat did you go with?
I used the 60MIL Killmat since I had it in my shop already from doing my truck. I have not been out yet, if it ever stops raining and the temp gets over 65 at the same time, I could get it out for a shake down ride.
The engine heat shouldn't be an issue as there is space between the foam and the engine components. I have a SensorPush Sensor in that compartment, I'll let you know how hot it gets under there. I have the twin 1.8L engines, and the factory foam shows no signs of heat wear or damage.
 
I used the 60MIL Killmat since I had it in my shop already from doing my truck. I have not been out yet, if it ever stops raining and the temp gets over 65 at the same time, I could get it out for a shake down ride.
The engine heat shouldn't be an issue as there is space between the foam and the engine components. I have a SensorPush Sensor in that compartment, I'll let you know how hot it gets under there. I have the twin 1.8L engines, and the factory foam shows no signs of heat wear or damage.
This rain is a joke! My boat is in my slip on the water so I’m debating hauling it home or possibly just the hatch to attach the foam back. It’s a must because it’s quite loud right now with the factory foam falling off.

Has anyone removed their engine hatch and is it a one man job?
 
@mtudb24 — seeing your AR220 maiden post today reminded me that I never replied back to this thread.

In short — the 1'' DynaCore made a huge difference.

Honestly, I wasn't expecting much from the DynaCore — it's just a sandwich of low-density fibrous insulation and thin, ripstop fibrous fabric after all. If I had all the time in the world, I would've installed Rockwool SeaRox with mechanical fasteners to insulate the engine bay. But... I had neither the time nor the desire to spend a whole day on this project. So, DynaCore was my one-hour solution.

I used heavy-duty scissors (with an alcohol-soaked rag to remove the adhesive buildup on the scissor blades between cuts) to shape a single sheet of DynaCore into two large pieces to fit the undersurface of the engine hatch. I cut up a second sheet of DynaCore to fit the underside of the two hatches to the left and right of the engine bay, as well as the firewall between the engine bay and the cockpit. Precutting the DynaCore was a mistake, as I'll explain shortly.

I covered the open engine bay with masking paper and scraped the leftover foam off of the engine hatch, but otherwise did no other cleanup or prep.

I sprayed 3M 90 onto the boat's surfaces, let it dry to tackiness while I peeled off the DynaCore's paper backing, then applied the DynaCore using a roller. DynaCore's self-adhesive layer is on a "backside" of a grid-like webbing that tries to maintain the shape of the mat. Unfortunately, when the paper backing is peeled off, DynaCore shrinks by roughly 5–10%! Therefore, I had to stretch each piece as I slowly peeled and rolled it — which was very difficult to do upside-down, when I was trying to align the edges of those big pieces to the somewhat articulated shape of the engine hatch. And I only had one shot. Uggh!

If I ever have to do this job again, I'm definitely removing the engine hatch first, so I can work on it right-side-up. And I'm also cutting down the mat into smaller pieces — one at a time — so I can carefully align each piece, and then cut the next piece a little bit bigger, knowing it'll shrink a little, vs. trying to stretch big-ass sheets while rolling them. Once I had the engine hatch completed, I cut down the firewall sheets into half a dozen manageable pieces before applying those.

Despite the installation difficulties — I finished in an hour, and I was very surprised at DynaCore's effectiveness. I can now have a conversation with the person next to me — without yelling — when we're both at the helm while running the boat on plane. When the engine hatch had just the stock foam underneath it, we had to yell to be heard over the sound of the engines.

It's been almost 2 months since I installed the DynaCore, and so far, it's held in place fine, even with the extreme heat of the engine bay — not only when I'm running, but also with the boat sitting uncovered on my backyard lift in the baking FL sun. With that said, the lightweight insulation that makes up the core of the DynaCore is very delicate, and I can see it tearing/shedding over time. One of these days, I'll spend a half hour applying DynaTape to the exposed edges of the DynaCore.

I bought a couple sheets of 1'' DynaCore (after removing the stock foam after it started to fall off and melt onto the engine). I haven't installed the DynaCore yet. Maybe Friday.

Right now, I'm thinking I'll cover (a) the underside of the engine hatch with the first sheet (which is just barely bigger than the hatch), then cut up the second sheet to cover (b) the undersides of the two lockers that flank the engine hatch, and (c) the firewall between the engine bay and cockpit.
 
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@mtudb24 — seeing your AR220 maiden post today reminded me that I never replied back to this thread.

In short — the 1'' DynaCore made a huge difference.

Honestly, I wasn't expecting much from the DynaCore — it's just a sandwich of low-density foam and thin, ripstop fibrous fabric after all. If I had all the time in the world, I would've installed Rockwool SeaRox with mechanical fasteners to insulate the engine bay. But... I had neither the time nor the desire to spend a whole day on this project. So, DynaCore was my one-hour solution.

I used heavy-duty scissors (with an alcohol-soaked rag to remove the adhesive buildup on the scissor blades between cuts) to shape a single sheet of DynaCore into two large pieces to fit the undersurface of the engine hatch. I cut up a second sheet of DynaCore to fit the underside of the two hatches to the left and right of the engine bay, as well as the firewall between the engine bay and the cockpit. Precutting the DynaCore was a mistake, as I'll explain shortly.

I covered the open engine bay with masking paper and scraped the leftover foam off of the engine hatch, but otherwise did no other cleanup or prep.

I sprayed 3M 90 onto the boat's surfaces, let it dry to tackiness while I peeled off the DynaCore's paper backing, then applied the DynaCore using a roller. DynaCore's self-adhesive layer is on a "backside" of a grid-like webbing that tries to maintain the shape of the mat. Unfortunately, when the paper backing is peeled off, DynaCore shrinks by roughly 5–10%! Therefore, I had to stretch each piece as I slowly peeled and rolled it — which was very difficult to do upside-down, when I was trying to align the edges of those big pieces to the somewhat articulated shape of the engine hatch. And I only had one shot. Uggh!

If I ever have to do this job again, I'm definitely removing the engine hatch first, so I can work on it right-side-up. And I'm also cutting down the mat into smaller pieces — one at a time — so I can carefully align each piece, and then cut the next piece a little bit bigger, knowing it'll shrink a little, vs. trying to stretch big-ass sheets while rolling them. Once I had the engine hatch completed, I cut down the firewall sheets into half a dozen manageable pieces before applying those.

Despite the installation difficulties — I finished in an hour, and I was very surprised at DynaCore's effectiveness. I can now have a conversation with the person next to me — without yelling — when we're both at the helm while running the boat on plane. When the engine hatch had just the stock foam underneath it, we had to yell to be heard over the sound of the engines.

It's been almost 2 months since I installed the DynaCore, and so far, it's held in place fine, even with the extreme heat of the engine bay — not only when I'm running, but also with the boat sitting uncovered on my backyard lift in the baking FL sun. With that said, the lightweight foam that makes up the core of the DynaCore is very delicate, and I can see it shredding/shedding over time. One of these days, I'll spend a half hour applying DynaTape to the exposed edges of the DynaCore.

How much did you use for the hatch and is it a single or double engine hatch?
 
How much did you use for the hatch and is it a single or double engine hatch?

My 255 FSH has a single engine hatch. One 32''×54''×1'' sheet of DynaCore did the whole underside of the hatch, with scraps left over.
 
My 255 FSH has a single engine hatch. One 32''×54''×1'' sheet of DynaCore did the whole underside of the hatch, with scraps left over.
Thanks for the info. Has anyone else here used this? I was looking at prices and it’s about $100. Pretty spendy, but if it works as well as you say, it might be worth it. Do you have any pictures of the hatch after install?
 
I used the amazon basics sound deadening product, after seeing some good YouTube reviews by auto sound system installers. I lined the engine bay as well as the compartments on either side. Not 100% coverage, but whatever I could get to easily. I also covered the two side hatches, and then added a Dynamat hood liner over the mat, and put down weather stripping under all hatches.

Definitely a noticeable difference. Conversations are easier, some of the high pitch sound is definitely gone, and my watch doesn't notify me that sound levels are too high like it used to on every run last year. I think I'm getting about 87db in the cockpit now at 6000rpm, but I don't remember where it was when I tested it last year. I plan on adding more this winter.

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This rain is a joke! My boat is in my slip on the water so I’m debating hauling it home or possibly just the hatch to attach the foam back. It’s a must because it’s quite loud right now with the factory foam falling off.

Has anyone removed their engine hatch and is it a one man job?
It is not a one man job, once the hinges are loose, and shocks disconnected, she's heavy and awkward.
As for heat and durability, We now dry slip our boat under the mooring cover at our local marina. Its been there for 2 weeks now. We had it out all weekend this past weekend. it was 100-102F all days we were out. After all 3 days, while I was hosing down the boat, I checked the foam. it's holding up very well, no delamination, no melting... perfect. Much quieter over stock too. Definitely time and money well spent on this work.
 
I ended up placing Siless 80 mil sound deadening on the hatch prior to regluing the factory foam along with the back of the transom seat back pads. The factory foam wasn't too bad to remove since it had nearly fallen off already. I used almost all of the 36 sq. ft. box. A heat gun helped pull most of it off without it tearing. I used some rubbing alcohol with a stainless wire brush to help remove some additional glue. Applied 3M High Strength Spray and took an entire 14.6 oz can even though I was fairly conservative with my application.

I personally feel its still very loud but my friends say it's better than it was. I'm not sure if it's better than just factory though. At 7000 rpm you can have a fairly normal conversation with someone close and you can mostly talk to anyone on the boat if you try. 8000 rpms, it's pointless to attempt in my opinion.

I removed it by myself by removing the nuts and letting the cylinders help hold it up. Then I popped the cylinders off from the boat. When putting it back, I did it in reverse order using the cylinders as support. I did have an additional set of hands on installation but I believe it could be done solo if you can't find any help. It is heavy and bulky though and removing the seat cushions would help with the weight.
 

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I ended up placing Siless 80 mil sound deadening on the hatch prior to regluing the factory foam along with the back of the transom seat back pads. The factory foam wasn't too bad to remove since it had nearly fallen off already. I used almost all of the 36 sq. ft. box. A heat gun helped pull most of it off without it tearing. I used some rubbing alcohol with a stainless wire brush to help remove some additional glue. Applied 3M High Strength Spray and took an entire 14.6 oz can even though I was fairly conservative with my application.

I personally feel its still very loud but my friends say it's better than it was. I'm not sure if it's better than just factory though. At 7000 rpm you can have a fairly normal conversation with someone close and you can mostly talk to anyone on the boat if you try. 8000 rpms, it's pointless to attempt in my opinion.

I removed it by myself by removing the nuts and letting the cylinders help hold it up. Then I popped the cylinders off from the boat. When putting it back, I did it in reverse order using the cylinders as support. I did have an additional set of hands on installation but I believe it could be done solo if you can't find any help. It is heavy and bulky though and removing the seat cushions would help with the weight.
You're a beast man!!! taking that thing off alone!
You need to add the acoustic panels on top of the factory foam now... I did mine exactly like you, but added these panels, made a big difference.
 
Did you use the adhesive backing without any additional adhesive? How has it held up?
 
I spread contact cement on the factory foam side, and 3M spray adhesive on the new foam side. We were out about 10 times this year, all last weekend during this recent heat wave, no delamination, holding great
 
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