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FSH 190 tubing experience/review

gkallevig

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Just wanted to share my experience on my FSH 190 for those maybe reading this site looking to buy a jet boat. I took mine out for the first tubing outing, pulling a small 2 person tube with 4 adults on board. It was a bit disappointing. I knew it wouldn't be fast, but I really did have trouble just getting on plane, having to feather the throttle to not cavitate too much. Once (finally) on plane, my max speed was 25, and on a turn I scrubbed a lot of speed off dropping as low as 18 mph, and having to be careful to stay on plane. I wish I had a supercharger lol. I couldn't turn fast enough to get the tubers out of the wake. This was all alright for little kids, but is pretty boring for teens. Maybe I could install a new wear ring, get a different impeller, but short of a supercharger install I don't think any mods will make a meaningful difference. This was my experience, ymmv.

PS no way would this thing pull up a slalom skier.
 

Wicked92

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so 4 total people on board? or 4 in the boat and 2 in the tube? Also id check wear ring and impeller, shouldnt cavitate that much.
 

gkallevig

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so 4 total people on board? or 4 in the boat and 2 in the tube? Also id check wear ring and impeller, shouldnt cavitate that much.
Good questions. 4 on the boat, 2 on the tube. Cavitation was on take off, didn't occur while underway or in turns. Wear ring probably isn't perfect, not I don't cavitate with 1 or 2ppl on board, so can't be that bad.
 

Wicked92

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id say you really asking alot from a single motor non supercharged pull a tube with 4 in boat I had a seadoo speedster 430 wake, with twin 215hp and if i was 4 or 5 in boat plus whomever on tube, it def lugged it, but had the power to overcome but could def feel it.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Just takes experience and some tricks along with a mod or two
 

FSH 210 Sport

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How many rpm’s were you getting with four on the boat and pulling the two on the tube?

When you are in the boat by yourself and full fuel how many rpm’s are you getting out of the motor?
 

gkallevig

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id say you really asking alot from a single motor non supercharged pull a tube with 4 in boat I had a seadoo speedster 430 wake, with twin 215hp and if i was 4 or 5 in boat plus whomever on tube, it def lugged it, but had the power to overcome but could def feel it.
I really wasn't asking to go full speed, but it was a bit weak for sure from what I was hoping.
 

gkallevig

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How many rpm’s were you getting with four on the boat and pulling the two on the tube?

When you are in the boat by yourself and full fuel how many rpm’s are you getting out of the motor?
I'm getting full rpms both times, around 72-75k. But when loaded it definitely dropped more in turns.
 

Sean R

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I had a 2017 Ar190 and yes it was a little under powered when tubing, especially when pulling the Big Mable tube. I am surprised you were struggling with a small two person tube. I know I could have giving two riders a thrill ride on a two person tube, on the 190.

How long of a rope are you using? I have a 50' rope with two 10' extensions. With my 190 just the 50' rope I could throw my sons of our 3 person airhead tube no problem but they would get a lot of spray in the face. With both extensions 70' no spray but a boring ride but great for little ones. And one extensions 60' was in between.
 

gkallevig

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I had a 2017 Ar190 and yes it was a little under powered when tubing, especially when pulling the Big Mable tube. I am surprised you were struggling with a small two person tube. I know I could have giving two riders a thrill ride on a two person tube, on the 190.

How long of a rope are you using? I have a 50' rope with two 10' extensions. With my 190 just the 50' rope I could throw my sons of our 3 person airhead tube no problem but they would get a lot of spray in the face. With both extensions 70' no spray but a boring ride but great for little ones. And one extensions 60' was in between.
Not sure how long of rope, they weren't getting sprayed on the face so maybe 60 or 70 ft. Seems like there's experiences of all types with these boats, whether it's pulling a tube or top speed claims. Really the only thing that could be wrong is the wear ring... Maybe I'll replace it for the heck of it.
 

2kwik4u

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Not sure how long of rope, they weren't getting sprayed on the face so maybe 60 or 70 ft. Seems like there's experiences of all types with these boats, whether it's pulling a tube or top speed claims. Really the only thing that could be wrong is the wear ring... Maybe I'll replace it for the heck of it.
Change your technique, cure cavitation, and add air to the tube. I can get a tube with under 100lbs of people (less weight is harder) outside the wake with 4 adults in the boat (3 kids on tube).

Your tube should have 1-2psi in it. It should be VERY firm, and skim the water, not sink into it. The better inflated you can keep the tube the easier it is to get it to glide across the water. Until I bought a new pump this year I had to inflate it with a regular pump, then use my lungs to finish it off. Alternatively if you can get it inflated in the cool morning air, then let it sit in the sun, it'll warm enough to get a few PSI in there. It really helps make the experience better for both the riders and the driver.

Cure cavitation. For me, this was seal the intake tunnel for starters. I added an L13 cone as well, but just an intake tunnel seal is inexpensive, and yields great results. Here's where I did mine back in 2018. Well worth the time and effort and the few dollars it cost. This really helped me maintain pump loading through turns. It's still not 100% cured, but it's MUCH easier to manage now. Not a silver bullet here, but a large improvement.

Change your technique. These boats don't like to accelerate AND turn at the same time. You want to get to speed (20+mph), turn hard over, let it bleed some speed, then accelerate out in a straight line. Think of the tube as a large pendulum. You want to put a pulling force to accelerate the tube slightly. The rope is uncapable of transferring side loads, only tension. So as you accelerate away, the tube is swung over the wake as it attempts to create a straight line with the centerline of the hull. A large sweeping turn at speed, then a quick burst of straight acceleration, and back into a sweeping turn will "pull" them straight, and outside the wake. Once they are out at one side, use the change in direction to "swing" them back to the other side. It's a CONSTANT, slow and speed pattern with acceleration in a straight line, and sweeping turns elsewhere.

Likewise these boats are exceptionally sensitive to bow loading. Get your people to sit in the rear during tubing sessions if you can. Get as much weight out of the bow as you can reasonably so. You will align the angle of the hull (and the angle of the thrust) more directly with the direction of travel. Because these hulls are so short, when you get people in the bow, the nozzle gets an uphill angle to it. This causes the bow to "plow" more than you want. Great for a smooth ride, NOT great for transferring power from the jet to forward movement. A few weeks ago it was myself (225lbs), my wife (135lbs), our 10yr old (61lbs) our 3yr old (40lbs), and my mother (~300lbs). I was driving, 3yr old and mother in the boat. Wife and 10yr old on the tube. First pulling session SUCKED, it was a lot of work to get them outside the wake, had to really work on my technique and was a constant struggle to fight off cavitation and maintaining drive in the turns. Second session was AMAZING. Seriously, it's like it picked up 50hp, and had tons of traction. Like a completely new boat. Tubing was easy, I could quickly spin them out of the wake, and I had to be careful to NOT break into the 30's, as the boat just felt like it was running so well. The difference was moving my ~300lb passenger from the center front bow and 3yr old from the port bow seat, to the port rear seat and center rear seat. Just that location change of 340lb made an almost indescribable difference. I can't preach enough on how sensitive these hulls are to that bow loading.

I've got more stories that illustrate the same thing over and over. Keep weight out of the bow, and you'll get better performance. These 19ft hulls are exceptionally light, relatively short, and have exceptionally light drivelines that "people ballast" makes up a LARGE percentage of total weight, and that can easily throw off the balance of the system and lead to poor performance........I REALLY REALLY want to try putting a trim system of some sort on this boat to mitigate these issues, but haven't taken the time or effort to make it happen. @SamCF did it here with great results, but it's on a supercharged boat. I'm unsure if anyone has done it on a normally aspirated 19ft'er yet.
 

gkallevig

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Change your technique, cure cavitation, and add air to the tube. I can get a tube with under 100lbs of people (less weight is harder) outside the wake with 4 adults in the boat (3 kids on tube).

Your tube should have 1-2psi in it. It should be VERY firm, and skim the water, not sink into it. The better inflated you can keep the tube the easier it is to get it to glide across the water. Until I bought a new pump this year I had to inflate it with a regular pump, then use my lungs to finish it off. Alternatively if you can get it inflated in the cool morning air, then let it sit in the sun, it'll warm enough to get a few PSI in there. It really helps make the experience better for both the riders and the driver.

Cure cavitation. For me, this was seal the intake tunnel for starters. I added an L13 cone as well, but just an intake tunnel seal is inexpensive, and yields great results. Here's where I did mine back in 2018. Well worth the time and effort and the few dollars it cost. This really helped me maintain pump loading through turns. It's still not 100% cured, but it's MUCH easier to manage now. Not a silver bullet here, but a large improvement.

Change your technique. These boats don't like to accelerate AND turn at the same time. You want to get to speed (20+mph), turn hard over, let it bleed some speed, then accelerate out in a straight line. Think of the tube as a large pendulum. You want to put a pulling force to accelerate the tube slightly. The rope is uncapable of transferring side loads, only tension. So as you accelerate away, the tube is swung over the wake as it attempts to create a straight line with the centerline of the hull. A large sweeping turn at speed, then a quick burst of straight acceleration, and back into a sweeping turn will "pull" them straight, and outside the wake. Once they are out at one side, use the change in direction to "swing" them back to the other side. It's a CONSTANT, slow and speed pattern with acceleration in a straight line, and sweeping turns elsewhere.

Likewise these boats are exceptionally sensitive to bow loading. Get your people to sit in the rear during tubing sessions if you can. Get as much weight out of the bow as you can reasonably so. You will align the angle of the hull (and the angle of the thrust) more directly with the direction of travel. Because these hulls are so short, when you get people in the bow, the nozzle gets an uphill angle to it. This causes the bow to "plow" more than you want. Great for a smooth ride, NOT great for transferring power from the jet to forward movement. A few weeks ago it was myself (225lbs), my wife (135lbs), our 10yr old (61lbs) our 3yr old (40lbs), and my mother (~300lbs). I was driving, 3yr old and mother in the boat. Wife and 10yr old on the tube. First pulling session SUCKED, it was a lot of work to get them outside the wake, had to really work on my technique and was a constant struggle to fight off cavitation and maintaining drive in the turns. Second session was AMAZING. Seriously, it's like it picked up 50hp, and had tons of traction. Like a completely new boat. Tubing was easy, I could quickly spin them out of the wake, and I had to be careful to NOT break into the 30's, as the boat just felt like it was running so well. The difference was moving my ~300lb passenger from the center front bow and 3yr old from the port bow seat, to the port rear seat and center rear seat. Just that location change of 340lb made an almost indescribable difference. I can't preach enough on how sensitive these hulls are to that bow loading.

I've got more stories that illustrate the same thing over and over. Keep weight out of the bow, and you'll get better performance. These 19ft hulls are exceptionally light, relatively short, and have exceptionally light drivelines that "people ballast" makes up a LARGE percentage of total weight, and that can easily throw off the balance of the system and lead to poor performance........I REALLY REALLY want to try putting a trim system of some sort on this boat to mitigate these issues, but haven't taken the time or effort to make it happen. @SamCF did it here with great results, but it's on a supercharged boat. I'm unsure if anyone has done it on a normally aspirated 19ft'er yet.
Thank you for that very informative novel! Haha. But seriously, that was a lot of effort on your part.
I'm no novice to watersports, been doing them all my life, so I know how to swing a tube... But given the load I had, no one was gonna be swinging a tube outside the wake very easily. The power/thrust just want there. I went out later with 2 people on board and two on the tube, and it was a huge difference, with both ppl sitting in the rear. I was able to get the tube outta the wake and keep better corner speed.
The tube was as firm as an electric pump could get it both outings, so that was consistent.
Cavitation, again it isn't bad, but not perfect. Max rpm with the lighter load was about 7200. I could cavitate on takeoff, otherwise I wasn't getting any...I could probably get some on a corner of I TRIED, but it wasn't real bad. Y rope is probably 50', as my riders do get a little spray going in a straight line.
What does sealing the intake grate do, exactly? Do those seems just cause air pockets, making the pump inefficient?
 

2kwik4u

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@gkallevig The intake tunnel sealing helps with reducing cavitation. That water is rushing through that area with great speed. Any disturbance in flow can lead to localized pressure reductions, and at times drop the pressure low enough that it will boil the water, which is what cavitation is. SO, smoothing that incoming flow as much as you can, helps keep a consistent pressure profile for the leading edge of the impeller, and helps to further reduce cavitation. Some have reported that there is enough of a low pressure area there that it will literally suck air from the seams with the hull, not just create them from localized pressure reduction..........SO, short answer; yes, air pockets make the pump inefficient, and sealing the tunnel up helps prevent those.
 
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