Garage heating suggestions needed

[Jim_in_Delaware]

It seems that we are going through the world's slowest home build, but hope to be in our new house at the end on next month. The new house has a 24' x 28' (about 672 square foot) attached garage with 11' ceilings. The garage is fully insulated (and dry-walled) and will have an insulated garage door. The garage will be used to store the off-road toys, winter storage for the boat (when the time comes), short term storage while we go through some of the stuff we current have in a storage locker, and will double as a simple workshop while I finish projects for the new house.

Not trying to get the garage as warm as the house, but warm it up enough on those cold Delaware winter days to make it a pleasant place to work. I'm looking on suggestions to heat this space. Idea heat source would be relatively cheap and warm the garage reasonably quick.

Any thoughts?

Jim

 

[HangOutdoors]

Ductless Mini Split. I have the following and it rocks. Heat as well as A/C which is nice as well. Super inexpensive to run. No ductwork. Friend has one in his garage which is about your size and recommended it to me.

DuctlessAire 21 SEER 24,000 BTU Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz-DA2421-H2 - The Home Depot

 

[crazy4life]

Ductless Mini Split. I have the following and it rocks. Heat as well as A/C which is nice as well. Super inexpensive to run. No ductwork. Friend has one in his garage which is about your size and recommended it to me.

DuctlessAire 21 SEER 24,000 BTU Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz-DA2421-H2 - The Home Depot

^^^what he said^^^
Go to online calculator for your space and construction type and it will tell you how many btu you will require. Each 12000 btu equals 1 ton. if you oversize the unit you could have short cycle issues as well if you undersize the unit you will have excess run times. Go to online hvac calculators and put in the info required and it will tell you how many btu your space requires.
Units are sold in 6000 btu increments. It is important that your unit is sized correctly.

This place is a great source of info as well as leading supplier.

https://hvacdirect.com/

 

[Babin Farms]

I hung a Hot Dawg in my garage. Easy to install and works great.

Hot Dawg™ Garage Heater

Garages and workshops, light commercial or industrial heating solution. Modine garage heaters offer a solution for your heating needs.

www.modinehvac.com

Unit Heater Sizing

Once you’ve decided to heat your garage or workspace, it is essential to select the correct unit size for the space. We can help.

www.modinehvac.com

 

[RightStuff]

+1 with what @Babin Farms said. Have a gas line run into the garage and put in a gas heater.

 

[crazy4life]

I hung a Hot Dawg in my garage. Easy to install and works great.

Hot Dawg™ Garage Heater

Garages and workshops, light commercial or industrial heating solution. Modine garage heaters offer a solution for your heating needs.

www.modinehvac.com

Unit Heater Sizing

Once you’ve decided to heat your garage or workspace, it is essential to select the correct unit size for the space. We can help.

www.modinehvac.com

Great point forgot to ask if you are looking for heat only or heat and ac.
If heat only there a are a lot of inexpensive options.

 

[zipper]

I hung a Hot Dawg in my garage. Easy to install and works great.

Hot Dawg™ Garage Heater

Garages and workshops, light commercial or industrial heating solution. Modine garage heaters offer a solution for your heating needs.

www.modinehvac.com

Unit Heater Sizing

Once you’ve decided to heat your garage or workspace, it is essential to select the correct unit size for the space. We can help.

www.modinehvac.com

X2 on the modine's, have used this propane one for 26 years in our garage. Lately I only use it if I need it higher than 60°F. I run the 1" outdoor boiler s/r lines in copper thru the garage ceiling space. The supply is insulated, the return is not. That dumps enough heat to keep the garage in the low 40's even on the coldest days. I need to keep it above freezing because that is where my pressure tank is for the well.

 

[Babin Farms]

X2 on the modine's, have used this propane one for 26 years in our garage. Lately I only use it if I need it higher than 60°F. I run the 1" outdoor boiler s/r lines in copper thru the garage. The supply is insulated, the return is not. That dumps enough heat to keep the garage in the low 40's even on the coldest days. I need to keep it above freezing because that is where my pressure tank is for the well.

I ran boiler lines in the floor of the garage and found out real quick that it takes a LOT of fuel(wood) to keep it even at 42* when the temps are 0* or colder. What makes it even worse is when you pull 2 vehicles in that have sat outside all day at work, packed with snow and are basically ice cubes. Now your trying to keep the temps up while thawing out your vehicles. The first winter I went through twice as much wood from the previous year of just heating the house. Decided it was time to change things up so I got the Modine. It stays at 45* and I'll usually run the floor heat in the spring & fall when the temps aren't so cold and there's not such a high demand on the boiler but shut it off when the temps drop.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I went with the mini-split ductless since I didn't want to screw with running natural gas lines or propane tanks. Totally self contained. Around here I would have to pull permits and bury the gas line in an area along the house that is inconvenient.

 

[zipper]

I ran boiler lines in the floor of the garage and found out real quick that it takes a LOT of fuel(wood) to keep it even at 42* when the temps are 0* or colder. What makes it even worse is when you pull 2 vehicles in that have sat outside all day at work, packed with snow and are basically ice cubes. Now your trying to keep the temps up while thawing out your vehicles. The first winter I went through twice as much wood from the previous year of just heating the house. Decided it was time to change things up so I got the Modine. It stays at 45* and I'll usually run the floor heat in the spring & fall when the temps aren't so cold and there's not such a high demand on the boiler but shut it off when the temps drop.

Funny, this has always been, well since we cleaned out the garage, her parking spot. The snow melts off into a floor drain. This keeps her happy to come out to a car in the mid 40's. Well she is at a canvas class now...my turn!

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

Lots of good thoughts, thanks for sharing.

I have looked at mini-splits for the unfinished 14'x24' space above the garage. I think the quote from the HVAC sub-contractor on our home build was $5400, so we decided to pass for now. The units that @HangOutdoors links for Ductless Aire units would be about $1400 for an 18,000 btu which is more than adequate for the space above the garage. I could install the unit, but it probably would be another $1500 to have an electrician wire it to the box and an HVAC technician purge the lines. Still, $3000 to efficiently cool/heat this space would be a great option.

For the garage area, I calculate a need for 30,000 btu's. I do have a 500 gallon underground propane tank being installed (house has gas stove, fireplace) and I wanted the extra gas for an outdoor kitchen and maybe a small emergency generator.

Interesting, I have calculated the prices for 30,000 btu's at our new home for both electric and propane. An electric heater would draw about 10KW to produce 30,000 btu's. Our local electric costs are about 8 cents per KWh, this is about 80 cents per hours to operate. Propane, based on current delivery costs in our area would break down to about 84 cents per hour to operate. Thus, is basically a wash between the price of the two.

Thinking about a 30,000 btu/10KW electric heater (240V) for the garage. Relatively inexpensive (about $1200), super easy to install and costs about $1 an hour to run in the limited time I would be using the garage. Anyone have an experiences, pro or con, on an electric heater like this?

Jim

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Jim_in_Delaware Can you link that electric heater you were looking at?

Also I had mine wired and purged by the HVAC guy. They did the whole thing while just after I bought the home and was starting on the remodeling. $900 for labor. Times may have changed though in pricing since 2019 though.

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

@HangOutdoors, I'm thinking about the King MODEL KB ECO2S+. I like that it also brings a remote control, has a remote sensor, and is nest compatible. Bonus, is that it also is made in America.

Here is one website that has is for $1,200.

Jim

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Heat pumps don’t work very well at temps below 32*, and get worse the colder it gets. Some have additional heat strips that turn on to warm the air.

It appears that you do not have the option of natural gas which is the least expensive. In my insulated shop I have a propane fueled forced air unit not unlike the Moline units listed above. I leave it set at 42* unless I’m going to go out and work in the shop, then I go out and turn it up for the time I’m going to be out there working… usually takes about 30 mins to warm the 1200 sq ft shop to 68* from 42* on a 20 something degree day. The shop has it’s own 500 gallon tank for this heater.

 

[the MfM]

There are mini splits that are available that come with pre purged linesets so you don’t have to hire an HVAC guy.

Or you could use a package heat pump..everything is in one outside unit. Just connect to AC and run some ductwork through the wall.

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

I'm still considering a mini split for the storage room above the garage. I have actually looked at the Mr Cool mini-splits and while they are DIY friendly, the issue for me is that since the lines are already charged, you end up coiling up any copper line that is not used. This is the downside to having an HVAC technician cut the lines to length and charging the system.

I do understand that there are some State and Federal tax credits that might help offset the cost of installing a mini split.

Jim

 

[Wake_Dude]

I have a dual zone Air Con mini split heat/cool for my 30' x 30' garage that will operate to -10 F. They are stupid simple to install yourself if you have any mechanical ability whatsoever. Wiring the 240v system is a piece of cake (don't be scared of it, any idiot can do this). Running the vacuum is even easier. Most come pre-charged with refrigerant. Get the right length of lineset for your application. If you need to shorten, buy a good flaring tool. Make your connections, run the vacuuum/purge/leak down test, release refrigerant, check again for leaks. Done. Piece of cake. Been running solid for over 5 years. Lots of videos on Youtube also if you need some reference.

 

[Wake_Dude]

I'm still considering a mini split for the storage room above the garage. I have actually looked at the Mr Cool mini-splits and while they are DIY friendly, the issue for me is that since the lines are already charged, you end up coiling up any copper line that is not used. This is the downside to having an HVAC technician cut the lines to length and charging the system.

I do understand that there are some State and Federal tax credits that might help offset the cost of installing a mini split.

Jim

The lines are not "charged". The refrigerant is in the outdoor unit itself. If you pulled a cap from the lineset, nothing happens. If you need a shorter line, cut, and re-flare it. After connection, the lines need a purge to pull all moisture, etc from the line before releasing the refrigerant from the outdoor unit.

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

The lines are not "charged". The refrigerant is in the outdoor unit itself. If you pulled a cap from the lineset, nothing happens. If you need a shorter line, cut, and re-flare it. After connection, the lines need a purge to pull all moisture, etc from the line before releasing the refrigerant from the outdoor unit.

My understanding is the the Mc Cool DIY series comes with the lines pre-charged with refrigerant, and that is why the lines come in 16' and 25' foot lengths so there is no purging of the lines. If I did install a mini-split in the room above the garage I would probably run the lines inside the wall as this is easy access in the garage and then run the lines outside to the compressor unit about three feet from the ground. I'll have to wait until we are in the house to take the measurements to see what length of lines would be needed.

Jim

 

[Wake_Dude]

My understanding is the the Mc Cool DIY series comes with the lines pre-charged with refrigerant, and that is why the lines come in 16' and 25' foot lengths so there is no purging of the lines. If I did install a mini-split in the room above the garage I would probably run the lines inside the wall as this is easy access in the garage and then run the lines outside to the compressor unit about three feet from the ground. I'll have to wait until we are in the house to take the measurements to see what length of lines would be needed.

Jim

That is not the case. The lines are not pre-charged. Mini splits are sold with enough refrigerant up to a given lineset length. If the lineset you want to run is going to exceed the refrigerant capacity of what was filled in the outdoor unit (sold as), an HVAC tech, or yourself (easy to do), will need to add more refrigerant. All of the regrigerant is housed in the outdoor unit when it is shipped. There is nothing in the lines.