At the risk of upsetting you, and that is not my intent, I beg to differ and the evidence bears this out, and I don’t want you or anyone else to miss another day on the water so I have to write this.
The oil capacity is 3.7, but only 3.4 can be put in for an oil change that includes a filter. That’s pretty normal to have a little oil left in the engine by design, especially when there isn’t a drain plug.
By the way, any decent oil filter has an anti drain back valve in it. It looks like a flap under the small holes in the outer perimeter of the oil filter. Especially important in an engine like the TR-1 where the oil filter is inverted.
You extracted 3.2 and put 3.2 back in and the engines were grossly overfilled. The amount specd in the manual for an oil change with filter is 3.4. Therefore there was still a lot of oil in the oil tank and or the pan.
When you changed the oil, did you run the engine for a while before extracting the oil? Did you note the oil level when you pulled the dipstick ?
Very important, do you screw the dipstick in all the way when checking the oil level?
I’ve had the same thing happen to me and my extractor is graduated in Liters so I can see how much is coming out of each engine. And I was screwing the dipstick in all the way.
These are dry sump engines, as such they don’t have an oil pan type sump like a car, they have a separate oil tank, a scavenging pump pulls all the oil out of the flat pan on the bottom of the engine and returns it to the tank. If there is no room in the tank the scavenging pump has no where to send the oil so it will lay in the pan. A dry sump engine eliminates the windage of the crank’s counter balancers from passing through the oil and the parasitic losses associated with that. If this engine is grossly overfilled I can see this being the cause of lower rpms, but not when the oil level is between the marks on the dipstick and the dipstick is screwed in fully to check it, which is how the manual states to check the oil.
I think this is where people lose rpm’s, the dipstick isn’t screwed in when checking / filling the oil and this creates a too high oil level. I ran experiment one day in the lake, my oil level as at the full mark and I made back to back 1 mile runs, I then incrementally decreased the oil level until it was only a 1/4 full, there was zero change in rpm’s.
When I am successful at extracting all the extractable oil from my engines and then incrementally add oil up to the 3.4 specd amount for an oil change with filter as specified in the manual the oil level on the dipstick is in the middle of the dipstick between L and F.
There was a guy in the last few months with a boat like mine that had at last report pulled over two quarts of oil out of each engine and they were still too full. I don’t believe he ever closed the loop on his problem. I was so amazed at how over full they were…. He must have a massive amount of oil in the engine and with each time he pulled oil out the scavenging pump pulled what it could out of the pan and put it into the tank.
Edit: Found the thread here, post #24.
Hi all,
2022 210 fsh I’ve owned it since new. Got the 10 hour service, just put new plugs in at 60ish hours.
I have lost nearly 10mph off my top speed. I have seen 40+ mph, but now “hammer down” puts me at around 30-32mph (GPS on the fish finder). I noticed this spring that I had lost a little top end, but now it’s gotten really bad.
I keep my boat in a freshwater slip. Last weekend I scrubbed the bottom of the hull & checked my zinc anodes, I also put in a set of NGK plugs. I can’t remember the spec, I think .028 was what they measured. The old plugs looked fine to me. I can’t see...
All that to say, when filling after an oil change put in 3.2L and run the engines for five minutes allow it to sit five minutes and then check the oil level, if it’s high then pull out the necessary amount to correct the level, if it’s low add some.
