Hydrophase Ridesteady

[Mainah]

Interesting. It is very possible to change voltages to fool the ecu. If that is how they are doing it then I wonder if they have a harness adaptor or a if you have to splice. The install docs still show the stepper/servo setup. I may have to give tgese guys a ring to get the LD on how this is working.

 

[swatski]

Interesting. It is very possible to change voltages to fool the ecu. If that is how they are doing it then I wonder if they have a harness adaptor or a if you have to splice. The install docs still show the stepper/servo setup. I may have to give tgese guys a ring to get the LD on how this is working.

If it works as advertised I'm not seeing how the current PP Stargazer could compete with this for Yamaha speed/cruise control system.

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[RiverRat]

I can't say for sure, but the motors in the video sure sound like MR-1's.

Hold that thought, those tachs only go to 9k. So yeah, they must be 1.8's. I really don't know anything about this system. It just showed up in my Facebook feed so I thought I'd share.

 

[Mainah]

So I guess I should not have been trying to read about this when I was preoccupied on a ski vacation with plenty of snow and 50 degree temps. It was some of the best skiing of my life. Ditched the helmet, googles, jacket and went with just a long sleeve shirt, vest, sunblock, and sunglasses. Digressing...

So I dug through the site, read all of the features, and finally watched the youtube video. Have to say that if trully no motor then hopefully they include a t connector otherwise you will have to splice into the aps. This is still a solid method either way. They claim the rotary encoder is splash proof but I want to know the ip rating.

It does appear they have been doing this for awhile. I do wonder how they have sued by perfect pass but that really is not my problem except if I ever needed replacement parts and they went under.

I still have questions but I am warming up to the idea of considering this instead of perfect pass. I am going to give them a call next week and report back.

One cool thought here is that if they are doing this how I think they are they could add a single throttle lever mode for driving. It would however require both throttles first be moved to get the buckets in the right position but still something that I would like.

 

[swatski]

I agree! This is truly a game changer, provided it works as advertised. Here is how I see it:

Simply the best of both worlds of mechanical and fly-by-wire operations -- combine the simplicity and reliability of the OEM cable/mechanical throttle (not requiring aux battery power) with the convenience of an turn-knob electronic cruise control. Which by the way is completely ancillary here (not built into Connext) -- if it failed you would still have your throttles.

I could also see myself using this for long cruises, something I would not consider doing w/ the PP in the past.
Electronic throttle sync is a great, great feature - for sure. Good point about needing to move the buckets up (and that is probably why the current OEM cruise assist only works above 3,000RPM or so).
I love the knob they use for adjusting speed and response/ramp.

The only question is: when can I get my hands on it?

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[swatski]

Okay, this is going to be the bomb. Justin is very fast in responding.
Here is an excerpt from my correspondence with Justin (below), he gave me his permission to repost:

"If you like, I am happy to give you some answers to the questions being posed in your thread.

1) The installation manual for the Yamaha system is not online yet. The one being referenced is for our traditional “throttle motor” (i.e. mechanical cable) based system.

2) The motors in the preview video are indeed being sync’d. The starboard engine analog tach is off by 100+ RPM, which is why it reads higher than the port engine. If you listen to the sound of the engines, you can tell they are synchronized. Note that the synchronization only starts when the speed control takes over (i.e. not in the initial ramp up to speed).

3) PP for Yamaha boats does not have the ability to bring in the RPM, to my knowledge. They removed that from their Yamaha offering years ago. This eliminates the tach on the display, RPM-mode, engine synchronization, etc. If someone can show otherwise, I will gladly have our website updated. They also have never had air temperature on any of their systems. Water temp can be brought if one buys/installs the paddlewheel, as our website indicates.

4) “No wake mode” is not affected by our system.

5) No splicing is required on the engine side – it plugs into the APS and CPS (cam position sensor). The power is all taken from the helm, which needs 5 wires tapped (see attached schematic diagram).

I hope this helps!

Thanks,
Justin Muessig
Hydrophase, LLC
jmuessig@hydrophase.com
512-524-8686"



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[Ziess21]

Nice, thanks for posting that from Justin. Looking forward to trying this out.

 

[Mainah]

Okay, this is going to be the bomb. Justin is very fast in responding.
Here is an excerpt from my correspondence with Justin (below), he gave me his permission to repost:

"If you like, I am happy to give you some answers to the questions being posed in your thread.

1) The installation manual for the Yamaha system is not online yet. The one being referenced is for our traditional “throttle motor” (i.e. mechanical cable) based system.

2) The motors in the preview video are indeed being sync’d. The starboard engine analog tach is off by 100+ RPM, which is why it reads higher than the port engine. If you listen to the sound of the engines, you can tell they are synchronized. Note that the synchronization only starts when the speed control takes over (i.e. not in the initial ramp up to speed).

3) PP for Yamaha boats does not have the ability to bring in the RPM, to my knowledge. They removed that from their Yamaha offering years ago. This eliminates the tach on the display, RPM-mode, engine synchronization, etc. If someone can show otherwise, I will gladly have our website updated. They also have never had air temperature on any of their systems. Water temp can be brought if one buys/installs the paddlewheel, as our website indicates.

4) “No wake mode” is not affected by our system.

5) No splicing is required on the engine side – it plugs into the APS and CPS (cam position sensor). The power is all taken from the helm, which needs 5 wires tapped (see attached schematic diagram).

I hope this helps!

Thanks,
Justin Muessig
Hydrophase, LLC
jmuessig@hydrophase.com
512-524-8686"

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@swatski - where is the wiring image?

 

[swatski]

@swatski - where is the wiring image?

The installation manual for the Yamaha system is not online yet. I posted the only schematic I received.

EDIT: Oh - the schematic did not show. Sorry, posting it NOW

Let me know if you can not see it - will pm or email

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[swatski]

Justin just posted the installation manual for twin Yamahas:
http://www.hydrophase.com/sites/def...and_Users_Guide_Yamaha_v.1.0_compressed_0.pdf

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[swatski]

I posted an update:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-...nch-for-twins-ridesteady-by-hydrophase.12590/

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[Jason Mesman]

I just had the hydrophase ridesteady installed on my 2017 Yamaha 212x. I attempted wake boarding with out it and it was nearly impossible to hold a speed and was a little dangerous due to not being able to watch rider, speed and other boat traffic all at once.

I was looking at both the perfect pass and hydrophase system. I went with hydrophase mostly due to the fact that perfect pass uses servo motors ( I think ) and has a lot less user settings available. The moving parts of the perfect pass were the real decision maker. Overheating motors and extra moving parts were some of the downsides I saw from others doing the same research. Although it should be mentioned that I never saw a post of a failed or "burnt up" motor in the pp system.

Aside from that, the user settings are definitely more robust in the ride steady platform. 50 rider settings make it pretty flexible. Especially if your sharing fuel cost. The ride steady system can track ride time as well.

The setup is very simple and easy to adjust on the fly. 1/10 a mile incremental changes. Holds well even in turns and choppy water.

All in all I'm pretty happy with the setup. I couldn't sacrifice a gauge so I opted for the stand alone display

 

[InmyElement]

Thanks for the post very informative..can I ask the price?

 

[Jason Mesman]

The price for unit is 1199.00 I believe. Due to a miscommunication when I bought the boat the marina purchased and installed it for free so I'm not sure what the installation cost would have been. I can say that the install is less involved than the pp system. Probably can be done DIY for most people with basic skills.

 

[Mainah]

This thread contains more info.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-...nch-for-twins-ridesteady-by-hydrophase.12590/

I can say that after a couple of months I am still loving it. We throttle up to 6k rpms out of the gate and ridesteady takes over from there. Hardest part of the install is running the wires. I left the factory settings in place and have not played with them. Have already taught two people to wakeboard this summer with both getting up on the first try. Holds speed very accurately even with aggressive boarders.

 

[AJR1977]

I have had the RideSteady for about 3 weeks. Love it!!!!! Install was not that difficult, it works as advertised and makes wake boarding / wake surfing EASY!!!!!!!!

 

[Rufusthedog]

Just wanted to point out the price as of now; looks like $ 1399. (Subtract 100 for single engine).

Is this what you folks spent or has there been a price increase lately?

https://www.hydrophase.com/catalog/speed-controls/ridesteady_yamaha


I was thinking about doing this for a winter project but it looks a few hundred more than the 1199 I hoped for.

I'll probably still do it however.

Quick question, if you installed the water temperature monitor, where's a good place to put that 3/16th inch hole? It says on page 9 in the directions:

if no existing hole can be used, the water temperature sensor cable
may be passed through with a 3/16” hole (as high up as possible),
using a marine sealant to seal the hole.​

 

[Rufusthedog]

Quick question, if you installed the water temperature monitor, where's a good place to put that 3/16th inch hole? It says on page 9 in the directions:

After a bit more research, maybe i answered my own question:

and now i'm talking to myself.

 

[Ridesteady]

Hi @Rufusthedog, you can see where Yamaha put the pitot tube hole in the older 210 series boats at about the 13 minute mark here:

 

[swatski]

Just wanted to point out the price as of now; looks like $ 1399. (Subtract 100 for single engine).

Is this what you folks spent or has there been a price increase lately?

https://www.hydrophase.com/catalog/speed-controls/ridesteady_yamaha


I was thinking about doing this for a winter project but it looks a few hundred more than the 1199 I hoped for.

I'll probably still do it however.

Quick question, if you installed the water temperature monitor, where's a good place to put that 3/16th inch hole? It says on page 9 in the directions:

if no existing hole can be used, the water temperature sensor cable
may be passed through with a 3/16” hole (as high up as possible),
using a marine sealant to seal the hole.​

@Rufusthedog I don't know how I missed your post! I have not installed the temp sensor on mine, but the pitot tube hole seems like a very good spot. If your boat still has the padle-wheel speedo, those are very inaccurate. RideSteady provides a full time GPS speedo with decimal.

If you need to drill an opening in the stern/transom it is very easy. Use 3M 5200 (I like regular but fast cure is fine, too) to seal it and to set the screws. And keep this in mind: anything you do will be light years ahead of the factory through hull fittings - quality wise! (Their through hull fittings should, pretty much all, be replaced! they are so bad.)

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