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Yeah, the APS connectors require pushing the latch in, while the CPS connectors require pulling the latch out to disconnect them. Add to that the APS latch is pushed against the wall and it can sometimes be tough to get them off.
The best thing to do to get a hang of how the latches work (pre-install) is to examine the respective connectors on the “throttle node” and “RPM cables”. They’re the same connectors, so you can get a better, closer look at the latch mechanism rather than trying to fight them in the engine area first.
Yeah, the APS connectors require pushing the latch in, while the CPS connectors require pulling the latch out to disconnect them. Add to that the APS latch is pushed against the wall and it can sometimes be tough to get them off.
The best thing to do to get a hang of how the latches work (pre-install) is to examine the respective connectors on the “throttle node” and “RPM cables”. They’re the same connectors, so you can get a better, closer look at the latch mechanism rather than trying to fight them in the engine area first.
Yeah, the APS connectors require pushing the latch in, while the CPS connectors require pulling the latch out to disconnect them. Add to that the APS latch is pushed against the wall and it can sometimes be tough to get them off.
The best thing to do to get a hang of how the latches work (pre-install) is to examine the respective connectors on the “throttle node” and “RPM cables”. They’re the same connectors, so you can get a better, closer look at the latch mechanism rather than trying to fight them in the engine area first.
Guys only have one X chromosome - only from the mom, so yeah, it does suck if you have a bum OPN1 gene - those are for red/green and sometimes blue color differentiation by your retinal rods and cones. The ladies have two copies (on two X chromosomes) - so they can compensate!
Not fair, lol.
Guys only have one X chromosome - only from the mom, so yeah, it does suck if you have a bum OPN1 gene - those are for red/green and sometimes blue color differentiation by your retinal rods and cones. The ladies have two copies (on two X chromosomes) - so they can compensate!
Not fair, lol.
Made the move...ordered mine today!
Hit me up for a 2 year old Stargazer. It would be a great idea to have spare parts around. I'll be removing it as soon as the weather breaks.
To be honest Ridesteady performs the same main function as perfect pass. Not sure how much benefit there is swapping one of these for the other if already installed.
To be honest Ridesteady performs the same main function as perfect pass. Not sure how much benefit there is swapping one of these for the other if already installed.
No way!
I've had both. I would replace the PP with RS in a nanosecond if I still had it.
With PP servos heating up, moving ropes, I would never be comfortable using the PP as a cruise control. Not to mention synching the engines in twins - by comparison the PP throttle cable tuning is an art form.
I guess we will find out about RS long term reliability but PP servos corrode/burn and screens go black or stop responding, pretty reliably. Oh, and PP uses dial based arrows for adjustments, the RS knob is way more convenient. And so is the initial install.
No way!
I've had both. I would replace the PP with RS in a nanosecond if I still had it.
With PP servos heating up, moving ropes, I would never be comfortable using the PP as a cruise control. Not to mention synching the engines in twins - by comparison the PP throttle cable tuning is an art form.
I guess we will find out about RS long term reliability but PP servos corrode/burn and screens go black or stop responding, pretty reliably. Oh, and PP uses dial based arrows for adjustments, the RS knob is way more convenient. And so is the initial install.
So - not even close (on benefits) - in my book.
Exactly...I have spent countless hours trying to sync those engines with that added connection/play in the throttle cables drives me crazy and those servos are never exact...No matter how many times I adjusted the cables I always had to disconnect my throttle sync and bump one engine a tad to get the rpms sync'd one way or another. I can't wait to remove those servos and have my direct connection back...Thanks for the post.
Ordered mine today. My son just started skiing and I realized 100% of my attention is required to keep the boat at the correct speed. Going to let the RS do the work so I can watch. Maybe my wife could even do the driving!
Ordered mine today. My son just started skiing and I realized 100% of my attention is required to keep the boat at the correct speed. Going to let the RS do the work so I can watch. Maybe my wife could even do the driving!
I can say that after a couple of months I am still loving it. We throttle up to 6k rpms out of the gate and ridesteady takes over from there. Hardest part of the install is running the wires. I left the factory settings in place and have not played with them. Have already taught two people to wakeboard this summer with both getting up on the first try. Holds speed very accurately even with aggressive boarders.
How well do you like this for cruising around? I have a 2011 242 LS and the throttles aren't the easiest to work with. I don't envision this as a full throttle replacement, but I could see using it the majority of the time when cruising. What has been your experience?
How well do you like this for cruising around? I have a 2011 242 LS and the throttles aren't the easiest to work with. I don't envision this as a full throttle replacement, but I could see using it the majority of the time when cruising. What has been your experience?
I use it nearly all the time when cruising. Have the system set to RPM mode (I created RPM based user for cruising) but turned off/standby while you get up on plane and to speed, dial the system's RPM setting close and power it on, move the throttles up to give it/ yourself some range to work with and your cruising in synchronized harmony. It's fantastic!
When you want the system off, throttle back and hit the power button or drop the throttles back enough the system ends the run and that's that. If the latter be the case, the system will still be on and want to take over the next time you throttle up. It all become second nature after a bit of use.
I personally like to drive with the throttles when cruising. Being off 50-200 rpm does nor bother me and I have the mechanical throttle sync plus have done the throttle drop mod. I tend to vary speed to conditions and other boat traffic quite a bit on a cruise across my large lake. I am also someone who prefers stick shifts in sports cars. This is just a personal preference thing and will point out others enjoy rpm mode.
That said I really enjoy and recommend Ridesteady for board/ski sports.
Another benefit is using GPS or rpm mode as a speed limiter for less experienced drivers. My 9 year old son loves to drive, but is heavy on the throttle. I set the rpm to 6000 and turn him loose. Smooth slow acceleration and tops out around 32 mph.
Absolute best addition I've made..... Love it just as much for the RPM mode with engine sync as I do for water sports in GPS mode. It's pricey,but sooooo worth it.