Just picked up our new FSH boat. So excited.

[Kaffi311]

So we just picked up our 2024 Yamaha FSH 222 sport E. She’s a beauty. We spent a few hours going over her with the salesman. Lots to learn, but we’re ready. This is a big move for us as we’ve had a 17 foot Tracker bass boat for many years. We bought a house on a lake in the Adirondacks and wanted to upgrade. Yahoo.
I’m looking for some threads on things to do before we take her out on the water. I think I read about sealing up some spots that are known to leak such as the cupholders but now I can’t find those threads. Anyone have any info on that or links to good threads about things to do before the first journey. Thanks a lot.

 

[NCarolinaFSH]

Check my threads. I’ve posted about drainage and leak points in decent detail I think. Give me a shout if you have any questions. Also check my FB posts on Yamaha FSH Owners Group, they have about 4800 people in group. I talk about fuel tank cover so water doesn’t settle on top causing corrosion.

Congrats on the boat.

 

[BumbleBee255]

Kick-a$$ boat!! I'm with you in the learning stage. Be sure to post what you find!

 

[zackmorris]

Here's my quick list off the top of my head:

1. Replace the nuts on the back of the dash panel with nyloc- they rattle loose and crack the dash.
2. Check the transducer sealing to make sure it's not leaking. Throw a hose in the bilge and let it run for a few with the plug in, crawl underneath and see if it's leaking. Most do.
3. The starboard side fish box drain hose usually is too long and has an upward curve in the center not allowing it to drain.
4. Clean all of the debris out of the drains, especially the the channel between the front storage locker to the changing room and then back to the bilge. There's usually tons of fiberglass shavings, zip ties, screws, etc in there.
5. Seal around the console where it meets the floor. This is a common leak into the changing room floor.
6. Fix the anchor drain. Cut a piece of hose to connect to the clamshell so it passes all the way through the hole instead of just flooding the layers of the boat hull.
7. FYI- Sideview doesn't work with the factory transducer. You'll need to install a 3in1 for that. But if the downscan isn't working and shows paused, you need to go into settings and select the proper type- it's HDI 50/200/800.
8. Check to make sure the common ground is hooked up on the DVSR. It's often left dangling.
9. Check all of the hose clamps on every visible hull exit. Often they are left loose.
10. Check all of the hose clamps on all of the livewell and washdown pumps. Often they are left loose.
11. You need to have the starting battery switch on and the key on to use the radio. There is no true "float mode" for the factory stereo on this boat.
12. Make sure the cupholder drain hoses are hooked up, and use hose clamps or zip ties to secure. Some of the ones in the front don't even have drain hoses hooked up at all, so you'll need to run hoses and tie into existing drains for those too.
13. Make sure your boat has a fuel vent cap on it near the filler port. Mine was missing when new and took 7 months to come in.
14. The front livewell has an adjustment knob on the outlet to dial down the flow so it doesn't power through the seal and weak closing lid.

Welcome!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So we just picked up our 2024 Yamaha FSH 222 sport E. She’s a beauty. We spent a few hours going over her with the salesman. Lots to learn, but we’re ready. This is a big move for us as we’ve had a 17 foot Tracker bass boat for many years. We bought a house on a lake in the Adirondacks and wanted to upgrade. Yahoo.
I’m looking for some threads on things to do before we take her out on the water. I think I read about sealing up some spots that are known to leak such as the cupholders but now I can’t find those threads. Anyone have any info on that or links to good threads about things to do before the first journey. Thanks a lot.View attachment 233024

What dandy of a boat!!!! Congrats!

The other guys have some great suggestions for sure, here’s a few of my own.

On the trailer, pull the dust caps off of your bearing buddies and make sure they have enough grease..and by enough grease I mean what the manufacture states; push on the edge of the piston and it should wobble because there is grease under the piston, if it doesn’t and its bottomed out, add enough marine grease with a grease gun to make the piston move out about 1/4”. Reinstall the dust cap and go on your first outing. How far are you going to have to tow to the ramp? Take the grease gun with you and check them again when you arrive at the staging area. If they need grease add it now and replace the dust cap. Also, before you dunk your trailer for the first time, there is a grease zerk on the pivot for the leaf springs between the tires, make sure you put enough grease in here so that it sponges out then wipe off the excess.

If you are going to be boating in salt water, take along a hudson sprayer with some fresh water in it and rinse the springs and wheel hubs thoroughly once you park the truck and trailer. This will go a long ways towards making your trailer last. Some guys even use a mix of salt away and water in the hudson sprayer.

Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder for the surge brakes. Check your owners manual packet for the trailer and surge brake manuals.

And speaking of manuals, be sure and read your boat owners manual front to back and know it. Pay special attention to the No Wake mode and TDE position of the throttle section, this is a built Thrust Directional Enhancer for low speed ops that Yamaha designed into your drive system. The TDE is the first detent forward on the throttles, in this position it partially opens the gates on the jet pumps allowing some rearward thrust to push you forward, whilst pushing some thrust down and to the sides. The no wake button raises the engine idle speed in three increments to a maximum of roughly 2200 rpms at level three. There is no counter to show what level its in, you will just hear and see the rpms go up. With the no wake in level 2 and the throttle in TDE you will have good directional control, level 3 is brisk but a bit too fast at least on my boat in the marina, too much wake. The no wake button becomes the cruise assist above 3500 rpm, this has 8 steps up and 8 steps down from the set point, this a great tool to adjust speed with when the water is a bit rough.

This boat is going to handle a lot different than your tracker, no thrust =‘s no steering control, unlike your outboard powered tracker this no big lower end in the water to provide directional control when in neutral. Go out and practice practice practice. You also have twin engines, you can split the throttles, one in forward and one in reverse to control the boat and make it pivot on a dime for close in maneuvering.

Before you go out make sure your bilge pump works by testing it. Put the plug in while the boat is on the trailer, turn on the batteries and put a garden hose down in between the motors and let the bilge fill with water while you keep an eye on it. The bilge pump should turn non automatically just as the water submerses it, there is also a manual switch on the dash. Once the bilge pump turns on automatically, turn off the hose and let bilge pump the water out until it stops. It won’t get all of the water out but most of it. Remove the plug and let the water drain out.

Look at your owners manual on how to check the engine oil.

Take the boat to the gas station and fill it up with gas.

With the addition of dock lines, fenders and the required and appropriate safety gear you are ready for the maiden voyage. If at all possible go to the ramp on a weekday when there is very little traffic if any around, you do not need that added stress launching and retrieving your boat for the first time.

Go and read @2kwik4u excellent post #11 in this thread Just bought '25 AR 190. Need advice this is a guy in kind of your situation, new to jet boats.

If you are going to boat in salt water then have the salt away set up ready to go once you take the boat out of the water and flush the engines.. VERY IMPORTANT, when flushing the engines this is the order,
Engine on
Water on
Water off
Engine off
It is very important that you do not have cooling water from a hose flowing into the engines when the engines are off. Get one of those valve you can screw on to the end of the garden hose so you do not have to make dashes to the hose bib on the side of the house.

Again, read your owners manual front to back to know how everything works. NOTE if you are going to have the Simrad unit on whilst not in the water, read its manual and know how to turn the transducer off. Short periods of time out of the water while it is running is fine, but extended periods out of the water while it is pinging can cause it to over heat.

Unless you went for a sea trial on the boat you will not know how hard these boats accelerate, so be cautious in applying the throttles at first.

While I have not been on this model boat, most of the FSH series of boats will list to port unless the rear live well is full, so once you are on the water fill that thing up.

The only item that I will suggest you buy and install on your boat is an onboard batter charger, with at least 10A of charging per battery. Be sure and charge the batteries as soon as you get home. NOCO is a very popular charger on this site and seem very reliable. If you need help let us know.

Go forth and enjoy the boat! The other stuff you can do later.. there is lots of stuff to do to dial in the boat in terms of what the other guys have said.

I waited a year with my boat before I started making modifications. I wanted to make focused mods and tweaks for my use. I also wanted to get to know the boat and become a good pilot, and of course use the heck out of it! So focus your money on fuel, snacks, tackle and good times. And of course that 10 hour maintenance. I want to see the engine hours get racked up on your boat and pics!

 

[dwakeman]

So we just picked up our 2024 Yamaha FSH 222 sport E. She’s a beauty. We spent a few hours going over her with the salesman. Lots to learn, but we’re ready. This is a big move for us as we’ve had a 17 foot Tracker bass boat for many years. We bought a house on a lake in the Adirondacks and wanted to upgrade. Yahoo.
I’m looking for some threads on things to do before we take her out on the water. I think I read about sealing up some spots that are known to leak such as the cupholders but now I can’t find those threads. Anyone have any info on that or links to good threads about things to do before the first journey. Thanks a lot.View attachment 233024

Congratulations, in addition to the many great suggestions here see this posting.
Thread 'New boat owner! Any tips?'
New boat owner! Any tips?

 

[Kaffi311]

Here's my quick list off the top of my head:

1. Replace the nuts on the back of the dash panel with nyloc- they rattle loose and crack the dash.
2. Check the transducer sealing to make sure it's not leaking. Throw a hose in the bilge and let it run for a few with the plug in, crawl underneath and see if it's leaking. Most do.
3. The starboard side fish box drain hose usually is too long and has an upward curve in the center not allowing it to drain.
4. Clean all of the debris out of the drains, especially the the channel between the front storage locker to the changing room and then back to the bilge. There's usually tons of fiberglass shavings, zip ties, screws, etc in there.
5. Seal around the console where it meets the floor. This is a common leak into the changing room floor.
6. Fix the anchor drain. Cut a piece of hose to connect to the clamshell so it passes all the way through the hole instead of just flooding the layers of the boat hull.
7. FYI- Sideview doesn't work with the factory transducer. You'll need to install a 3in1 for that. But if the downscan isn't working and shows paused, you need to go into settings and select the proper type- it's HDI 50/200/800.
8. Check to make sure the common ground is hooked up on the DVSR. It's often left dangling.
9. Check all of the hose clamps on every visible hull exit. Often they are left loose.
10. Check all of the hose clamps on all of the livewell and washdown pumps. Often they are left loose.
11. You need to have the starting battery switch on and the key on to use the radio. There is no true "float mode" for the factory stereo on this boat.
12. Make sure the cupholder drain hoses are hooked up, and use hose clamps or zip ties to secure. Some of the ones in the front don't even have drain hoses hooked up at all, so you'll need to run hoses and tie into existing drains for those too.
13. Make sure your boat has a fuel vent cap on it near the filler port. Mine was missing when new and took 7 months to come in.
14. The front livewell has an adjustment knob on the outlet to dial down the flow so it doesn't power through the seal and weak closing lid.

Welcome!

Thank you so much for this information. I just printed out a bunch of lists from these various threads and we will get to work on them. Regarding your list number one. Is this the nuts you're referring to?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I just noticed that the front hub on his trailer looks like stainless but the rear is black.. hmmm

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Oh yeah, you may want to change the bow roller out to a Stolz …

Seriously, check for things that should be attached and such.. but go use the boat.. I’ve seen people on this site spend all kinds of time working on their boat, doing this upgrade and that, then they end up selling the boat with like 30 hours on it.. you will have time to do a lot of stuff in the nearest of futures..

There are things that the dealer should fix too. But @zackmorris list is thorough and extensive.. I agree about checking those nuts are ny lock nuts, just make sure they are snug, not tight, for that matter check all the nuts and bolts..

did the dealer take you on a sea trial? Where are you boating at?

 

[Kaffi311]

Oh yeah, you may want to change the bow roller out to a Stolz …

Seriously, check for things that should be attached and such.. but go use the boat.. I’ve seen people on this site spend all kinds of time working on their boat, doing this upgrade and that, then they end up selling the boat with like 30 hours on it.. you will have time to do a lot of stuff in the nearest of futures..

There are things that the dealer should fix too. But @zackmorris list is thorough and extensive.. I agree about checking those nuts are ny lock nuts, just make sure they are snug, not tight, for that matter check all the nuts and bolts..

did the dealer take you on a sea trial? Where are you boating at?

Thanks! We do plan on spending a day or two going over these things but also will surely be out on the water soon..
No, we did not go on a trial ride here in PA. Closest big lake is a few hours away. is that a common thing that occurs?
We bought a house on big lake in upstate New York ( Adirondacks- so sweet!!) so that's where she will primarily be used. We're also very close to Lake Champlain, which we look forward to visiting.
Thanks !

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The sea trial is something I expected and insisted on to make sure everything worked as it was supposed to before I took delivery. Kinda like a test drive.

Certainly sounds like you are all set with your location !

I think it’s prudent to go over things for sure. Your plan sounds solid.

On my new dirt bikes I’d check all nuts and bolts, every single one I could get a wrench on. Then I’d ride it a few times, then put it on a work stand and take everything off down to the frame leaving the engine it, then lubricate every thing that took off that needed lubrication, and put blue loctite on all the fasteners as I reassembled it. I’d also pull every electrical connector apart and pack them with dielectric grease. I did not do that to my boat lol. But I did go out and use it a bunch then started checking nuts and bolts. But didn’t make any changes until the following year.

After you’ve used it couple times get into the aft bilge and check all the hose clamps and such as @zackmorris mentions. Then after you reinstall the clean out tray lay a bead of seal and peel around 90° corner where it meets the deck to seal it, don’t glue the tray down though. You might want to invest in a mechanical hatch riser from Jet Boat Pilot. The clean out tray and that hatch are where most of your water will come in at.

Go out and put some hours on that baby!