MEGA FANGs Cobra AK Power Steering: Doughnuts In Reverse

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I do have a couple sets and I would suggest emailing me directly jeff@cobrajetsteering.com Do you want to drill your own plates ? I can send you the paper with the hole location and I also send you the detailed instructions for the side force stabilizers as that is their official name , since I have been harping on the importance of using a good thread locking compound on the bottom nozzle bolt people have been doing it right I also did a video explaining all about the importance of doing any of the installations correctly when you remove the bottom bolt of your nozzle and reinstall one.
Today I noticed Yamaha had a ton of thread locking compound on everything even the tie rod bolts for the A K steering hell they had jamb nuts and thread locking compound on the bolt holding the tie rod to the nozzle even I think that one is overkill.
Hell I had to knock out the tie rod bolts because of all the thread locking compound on them I am not quite sure the excess compound is good for the tie rod ends ability to pivot freely. I have also had others tell me they experienced the same thing.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

While this is on my mind let me remind you folks about a federal law on warranties, The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). Enacted in 1975, the federal statute governs warranties on consumer products. Is an important consumer regulation, My understanding of some of the things it addresses covers implied warranties even if there is no written warranty and voiding warranties , a manufacturer can not void their warranty because you used an after market product with their product unless they can prove "burden of proof lies on them" that the aftermarket product you used actually caused their product to fail, and if they prove that they are only allowed to void coverage on that part they can not void a warranty. Otherwise unscrupulous companies could threated to void their warranty to force you to use their product line only etc. Now I am no lawyer but this is my understanding of some of the reasons this act was put into place. So do not fear putting aftermarket parts on your boat or mixing and matching my parts with other peoples parts . But do your own research. This warranty act has been around for many decades.

 

[swatski]

I do have a couple sets and I would suggest emailing me directly jeff@cobrajetsteering.com Do you want to drill your own plates ? I can send you the paper with the hole location and I also send you the detailed instructions for the side force stabilizers as that is their official name , since I have been harping on the importance of using a good thread locking compound on the bottom nozzle bolt people have been doing it right I also did a video explaining all about the importance of doing any of the installations correctly when you remove the bottom bolt of your nozzle and reinstall one.
Today I noticed Yamaha had a ton of thread locking compound on everything even the tie rod bolts for the A K steering hell they had jamb nuts and thread locking compound on the bolt holding the tie rod to the nozzle even I think that one is overkill.
Hell I had to knock out the tie rod bolts because of all the thread locking compound on them I am not quite sure the excess compound is good for the tie rod ends ability to pivot freely. I have also had others tell me they experienced the same thing.

So - this is the factory bolt you are talking about in the video, correct?


Very informative, I never thought about the forces on those bolts with the buckets closed, but it makes sense.

--

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Yes that is it But as usual being a stickler for the facts it is not a factory bolt it is MY bolt that I supply for the install of most of my steering systems. SORRY just being accurate but it is the correct bolt location. I like the fact that the way I set it up you can monitor the bolt simply by looking in the nozzle. Usually when someone did not follow the directions about the importance of thread locking compound the bolt usually works loose pretty quickly. If you check Yamaha P W C's had an issue similar where a bolt falls out of their trim that is attached to the nozzle , It was the top bolt on those but since there is no reverse bucket closing off the water exiting the nozzle all that happens is the steering locks up solid. Then you have to drive dragging a foot in the water to turn.

 

[zipper]

since I have been harping on the importance of using a good thread locking compound on the bottom nozzle bolt people have been doing it right I also did a video explaining all about the importance of doing any of the installations correctly when you remove the bottom bolt of your nozzle and reinstall one.

Thanks for this post and video. I will be removing the base plate to modify to accept the mega fangs any way, but i found this on port nozzle. Again thanks for the heads up.

Edit: I will move the reverse bucket tomorrow to get a better look at the bolt.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

The base " side force stabilizers" do float and since those are pretty old I believe that the play is not really excessive but without seeing the bolt in the nozzle and the flat washer etc it is hard to say for sure Whoever installed them obviously used thread locking compound . When you add mega fang locking tabs there will not be any free play at all.

Remember the big thin washer I told you acted as a bearing between the stainless bottom washer and the aluminum side force stabilizer to protect the stabilizer from rubbing on the washer ?
You may want to check and make sure that washer spins and is installed correctly etc If not the bottom washer can wear on the plate but once the locking tabs are installed this will not be an issue because that plate will no longer need to float.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Here is another video I made for the mega fang install I had to wait for the janitor to leave so I could sneak in his closet to do this one before the nursing home employees noticed me in there.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

@zipper I just took a minute to check a new base plate on a nozzle with all new parts and the answer is yes the plate will float up and down about 1/4 inch and a slight side to side movement so that one should be fine. Just for curiosity I would be checking the two big spacers on the bottom plates as it may be that the one on the plate that does not move as much may be the wrong one, the fin spacers are .218 thickness and the bottom plate spacers are .250 thickness so if someone put the wrong one in the wrong place it could explain why the plates have different amounts of play , the easy way to see is set the spacers side by side and see if one is a bit taller than the other. If this was the case it would not cause any harm as I said previously once you put the locking tabs on the base plates for the mega fangs you will be removing the play . I have the base plate spacers made thicker to allow room for the thin washer to float between the aluminum plate and the stainless thick washer to protect the plate from wear. You also have the older style side force stabilizer, the newer ones have cutouts for the newer nozzles to clear, so when you see the template for drilling the holes , do not be concerned about the differences inside the stabilizer that does not apply to your system unless you were taking it off your boat and installing the system on a newer boat. the second picture shows your stabilizer and the bolts etc for it. I also show a picture of the newer style nozzles so you can see what I am referring to. So just do the small holes and not the cutouts.

 

[zipper]

@Cobra Jet Steering LLC I just went down to the boat to check and take pics. Both base plate bolts look good.
However, the washers do not appear to be installed correctly based on my understanding during our conversation. Correct me if I am wrong. PO installed them.
I am out in the woods now with a shitty cell signal, will check back later.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Actually it looks fine the thin washer is loose as it is supposed to be and it is protecting the aluminum plate from being worn into by the thick bottom washer if you lift the fins up with one hand to take pressure off the plate you can spin the thin washer with your finger . I can see from the pictures that the thin washer is loose as it is supposed to be or it would not be at an angle between the plate and the bottom washer. Also as a matter of routine maintenance And I have suggested this in the past for anyone steering or not, you should spray the pivot points of your reverse gates and your nozzles periodically with white lithium grease as well as your steering cable connectors , this is also great for reducing corrosion , I soak my engines with it, my hose clamps, electrical plugs etc it sticks to the engine so nicely and it only leaves a slight film so it isn't horrid looking most people don't even notice it. I also do my pumps , it is about $3.50 a can at Wal-Mart and it has the small spray tube for hitting exact spots like other lubricants.
Remember the reverse and the nozzle pivots have NO bearings or bushings, just stainless standoffs so why not help those places to operate properly and last a long time,? Its as easy as giving those locations a quick shot occasionally.

 

[zipper]

Actually it looks fine the thin washer is loose as it is supposed to be and it is protecting the aluminum plate from being worn into by the thick bottom washer if you lift the fins up with one hand to take pressure off the plate you can spin the thin washer with your finger . I can see from the pictures that the thin washer is loose as it is supposed to be or it would not be at an angle between the plate and the bottom washer. Also as a matter of routine maintenance And I have suggested this in the past for anyone steering or not, you should spray the pivot points of your reverse gates and your nozzles periodically with white lithium grease as well as your steering cable connectors , this is also great for reducing corrosion , I soak my engines with it, my hose clamps, electrical plugs etc it sticks to the engine so nicely and it only leaves a slight film so it isn't horrid looking most people don't even notice it. I also do my pumps , it is about $3.50 a can at Wal-Mart and it has the small spray tube for hitting exact spots like other lubricants.
Remember the reverse and the nozzle pivots have NO bearings or bushings, just stainless standoffs so why not help those places to operate properly and last a long time,? Its as easy as giving those locations a quick shot occasionally.

Thanks, good to know they were installed correctly. I do use that exact product on all the pivot points and cables. I sprayed last May before she sat in a wet slip for 5 mos. this summer. Everything below the waterline needs a good cleaning still.

Edit: I like Starbright Hull Cleaner and will use when the weather is favorable, when water outside remains a liquid and does not solidify.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I use it from day 1 but I am in salt water " always" , I am sure there are other products that work I just like this one for my own use. It isn't for cleaning though I am sure someone here will have recommendations for that process.

 

[zipper]

Mega Fangs ordered! Happy Birthday to me. Excited to install and try out.

 

[Mainah]

Mega fangs installed yesterday. Install was easy as just bolt on. Weather did not cooperate today for a cruise on the lake so will be at least a few weeks before I test them as going to do more mods this coming weekend. Back to ordering more stuff for more mods and upgrades. Pics below but nothing really new to see. Jeff was very responsive to my order and everything done over email. He mailed out very fast too.

As a side note this is a good time to check how your nozzles are pointed. I used a 12 inch spped square against articulating keel and the rear center bucket bolt hole as the measuremnt point. I have both set to about 11 and one eighth inches which should be slightly toe in. May continue to play with this until as desired.

 

[swatski]

As a side note this is a good time to check how your nozzles are pointed. I used a 12 inch spped square against articulating keel and the rear center bucket bolt hole as the measuremnt point. I have both set to about 11 and one eighth inches which should be slightly toe in. May continue to play with this until as desired.

I am so interested in any feedback on this!

The factory new SurfPoint system is really just a 7 degree toe-out steering nozzle adjustment - that according to my dealer (we just talked at a boat show here). Nothing else to it, just the nozzle openings pointed slightly together - to create that crisper wake.He claims he could not tell the difference in steering or top speed running a S-P and a non-S-P boat back to back.

I really want to explore this. With the Cobra fins/Megas this should work even better and should not require full 7 deg angle adjustment - which is not be trivial as there is not enough thread on the OEM cables (in non-SurfPoint boats).

--

 

[Mainah]

I said toe in but probably should have said toe out. The jet streams are now ever so slighty pointed at each other

 

[swatski]

I said toe in but probably should have said toe out. The jet streams are now ever so slighty pointed at each other

Exactly! I’ve not played with this, yet, but figure there should be enough slack on the cables and enough thread on supporting rods to get a good SurfPoint effect, I think.

—

 

[geohil]

I said toe in but probably should have said toe out. The jet streams are now ever so slighty pointed at each other

With the mega fangs did you have to adjust them for the toe out? I was contemplating shimming them so the fang lines up with the direction of travel while the nozzle has the slight toe out.

 

[Mainah]

I don't think there is enough thread on the starboard side for the cable rod anyways. I took it as far as I would be comfortable with (I like to be on the safe side so perhaps a bit more there). One could always make a run to the hardware store to work out and extension system or machine an extension from two different diameter bare aluminum rods with nothing more than a drill press and a tap and die set. I don't get much of a chance to continually tweak things as I am in an HOA and having my boat in the driveway over a long weekend is pushing the 24 hour rule a bit. I also wet slip it so it is not frequently on the trailer or in the air.

 

[Mainah]

With the mega fangs did you have to adjust them for the toe out? I was contemplating shimming them so the fang lines up with the direction of travel while the nozzle has the slight toe out.

I lined up the articulating keel at 90 degrees to the transom then I adjusted the steering cables and tie rods so that the were an equal distance from articulating keel using my large framing square to rear bolt hold method. The fangs would have to be bent or bolt holes elongated to accomplish what you are asking about which I would not want to do and I think would defeat the purpose. It will be at least two weeks and probably more before my boat is back in the water to post opinions but even the I would to be able to discern the difference between adding the mega fangs and the toe adjustment since I did both at the same time.