New To Me 2019 275SE ... Battery Question

[treeskier]

This season we upgraded from a 2016 242 Limited S to a lightly used 2019 275SE. There are many things that are system improvements over the older boats. To name a few I love the new clean out plugs and that the bilge pump will run with the batteries off (we are on a lift so our drain plug is always in).\\

When I start up from cold I turn both start and house battery on let the Contex completely load and then turn the key to the on position so I am ready to start then the reverse when back to the lift ...key off wait 30 seconds then kill both batteries at the switches connect the trickle charger to the house battery.

Here's the question if I turn on the house battery only I get a low start battery voltage alert (since the switch is off not surprising)...I would do this if I want to run the audio system while on the lift or floating. Is it an issue to leave the start battery switch on to avoid the alarm? Is there something else I should be doing? On the 2016 we only had the start battery on when we were underway. We'd switch it off while floating using the audio etc.

I haven't had any battery drain issues so far.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

There is no issue in leaving the start battery on. In fact that is the way the system is designed to be operated. The BEP battery switch with the built in DVSR is designed to isolate the start battery while floating / beached / parked. Once the engines start they will charge the start battery first, then when the start battery reaches 13.4 volts the DVSR will close and start charging the house battery, once the engines are off and the battery voltage drops to 12.7 the DVSR will open isolating the start and house batteries.

What kind of battery charger do you have?

Although not requested, you should be pulling the drain plug and letting the water drain out of your bilge as the bilge pump doesn’t remove all the water. Especially since I assume you are boating in salt water?

 

[treeskier]

There is no issue in leaving the start battery on. In fact that is the way the system is designed to be operated. The BEP battery switch with the built in DVSR is designed to isolate the start battery while floating / beached / parked. Once the engines start they will charge the start battery first, then when the start battery reaches 13.4 volts the DVSR will close and start charging the house battery, once the engines are off and the battery voltage drops to 12.7 the DVSR will open isolating the start and house batteries.

What kind of battery charger do you have?

Although not requested, you should be pulling the drain plug and letting the water drain out of your bilge as the bilge pump doesn’t remove all the water. Especially since I assume you are boating in salt water?

First of all let me say how much I appreciate your detailed and complete answer on the way the battery charging system operates.

I am using CTEK’s MULTI US 7002 12V smart battery charger, maintainer. Designed for long term use without overheating or over charging.

Unfortunately removing the drain plug routinely is an issue and would require a swim every time. I’m open to ideas … rear service platform possibly.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

First of all let me say how much I appreciate your detailed and complete answer on the way the battery charging system operates.

I am using CTEK’s MULTI US 7002 12V smart battery charger, maintainer. Designed for long term use without overheating or over charging.

Unfortunately removing the drain plug routinely is an issue and would require a swim every time. I’m open to ideas … rear service platform possibly.

How about a cheapo little rubber raft?

Are you flushing the engines and such with salt away?

 

[treeskier]

Yes we flush with salt away. The rubber raft would be an adventure… we’re open bay. I wonder if I can reach the drain plug from the swim ladder?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yes we flush with salt away. The rubber raft would be an adventure… we’re open bay. I wonder if I can reach the drain plug from the swim ladder?

Only if you have Hobo Kelley arms lol! What about a dingy ti d up to the other side of the dock ? Too much wave action for that?

Wonder if you could mount a 2x12 off of your lift on the lower perpendicular truss so you could crawl out there. I’ve read where a few posts by salt water boaters will rinse the engine bay and aft bilge with salt away and then fresh water to keep the bilge clear of salt water. Then occasionally spray down those areas with silicone spray.

 

[lazergeek]

you can get a self draining drain plug, I think Versiplug is one of the brands. You can do a search here to find some posts about them.

 

[VitaminSea]

you can get a self draining drain plug, I think Versiplug is one of the brands. You can do a search here to find some posts about them.

I tried this one season while I had the boat at a high in dry. Plug worked great, alway had a dry bilge.
In Salt/Brackish water at the end of the season there was significant corrosion build up between the two metals (plug is Aluminum IIRC), with the drain plug housing being stainless steel. Just sharing so that if you go that route, you remove the plug a few times a season to avoid it seizing into place, or perhaps a healthy coating of grease on the threads may assist with mitigating the corrosion.

 

[treeskier]

you can get a self draining drain plug, I think Versiplug is one of the brands. You can do a search here to find some posts about them.

Interesting I’ve been dealing with this issue for 11 seasons … 3 different Yamaha jet boats and I had not heard of that. I’ll take a look online.