No Power

[jcb1977]

throttles in neutral? sounds more like a kill switch issue than a fuse issue to me. or possibly a battery switch issue.

 

[BMorrison]

throttles in neutral? sounds more like a kill switch issue than a fuse issue to me. or possibly a battery switch issue.

I know the switch is no good there's power to it but not from it and it's free flowing continuity in off. Just not reaching back to the main, bypassed it and got power. Throttle is in neutral. Did take the tether off the kill and put it back on could be an issue. Won't know until I pull the panel off but it's definitely a consideration for the issue.

 

[sunbyrned]

Found this thread regarding similar issue. Wonder if it is relays?

L

Thread 'No power and reverse module error'

Feb 24, 2025

When we sea trialed my 17’ 195 open at first there was no power at the ignition. Turn key and nothing, as if the battery was dead. Tried brokers jump box and then mine, nothing. Goofed around with it for a bit, then turned on blower and it started. They told me that the blower needs to be on in order to start it (which is not true). Ran great at sea trial and then I ran it a few times in the driveway winterizing and what not, all good.

Fast forward 3 months to last week and again, turn the key and nothing from the engine and to add to it there was a reverse module error on the screen...

• Liberty195
• Replies: 12
• Forum: Scarab Jet Boats

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[BMorrison]

After finally getting around to going through every fuse (no bad fuses minus the bilge) I had continuity to the battery switch but not FROM the battery switch, upon tracing back all the wires to the switch and reorganizing and connecting them correctly (previous owner) and relabling the common, house, bilge, battery switch etc) and replacing the bilge fuse I still had continuity to the switch in the off position 4 way selector had 8 positions so something inside the switch was gummed and corroded couldn't even pull it apart. Decided to bypass the switch entirely to test and hooked everything into battery 1 and 2. Fired right up. New switch will be here today.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Excellent! Thank you for closing the loop! Let us know about the new switch install.

 

[jcb1977]

After finally getting around to going through every fuse (no bad fuses minus the bilge) I had continuity to the battery switch but not FROM the battery switch, upon tracing back all the wires to the switch and reorganizing and connecting them correctly (previous owner) and relabling the common, house, bilge, battery switch etc) and replacing the bilge fuse I still had continuity to the switch in the off position 4 way selector had 8 positions so something inside the switch was gummed and corroded couldn't even pull it apart. Decided to bypass the switch entirely to test and hooked everything into battery 1 and 2. Fired right up. New switch will be here today.

Assuming your current battery switch is a 1-2-both-off type switch? if so, might be a good time to switch to a dual circuit house/start battery setup with a DVSR or ASR.

I fried a couple of connext screens using a 1-2-both-off switch and suspect it was the cause.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Assuming your current battery switch is a 1-2-both-off type switch? if so, might be a good time to switch to a dual circuit house/start battery setup with a DVSR or ASR.

I fried a couple of connext screens using a 1-2-both-off switch and suspect it was the cause.

One of the main problems with a 1, 2, 1&2 is whether or not they are a make then break set up. If they are not a make then break set up, and you switch the batteries when the engine is running, there is high likelyhood that you will fry your rectifier / regulators… you also get the voltage transients from engine starts to your electronics by not having a dedicated start battery.. that is where the two battery BEP switch that comes stock on the two battery Yamaha boats is an advantage.