Oil Levels High 2024 AR220

[SPEK]

Just grabbed the boat from post winter storage. Checked oil levels before I ran it on as level ground as I could (I know engines need to be warmed up) and the dips were below the min oil levels. Took it to the ramp and dropped it in. Both engines started fine and I idled for about 5 min. I checked the starboard side first and when I opened the cap oil kind of gushed out and was extremely full. The port side didn't gush out but was way over the full mark on the dipper. Any ideas why they would be so full? There was a little fuel smell I think but I'll be honest I've always had a hard time with the smell of oil and determining if it smells like gas but could there have been a stuck open fuel injector if so? I didn't run them anymore because I know an overfilled reservoir or contaminated oil is no bueno.

Thanks in advance!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Read this

Summary. Run the engines for 6 mins before checking the oil level unless it’s below 68*, then add another 6 minutes. Check the oil immediately after shutting them off.

Post in thread 'TR-1 Proper Oil Level to avoid RPM loss'

May 18, 2025

To track and somewhat follow the path of the oil, this makes sense.

Most everyone (myself included) will apply their experiences with cars, to these motors, unwittingly and/or unknowingly causing problems that don't seem to track with "typical" oil change procedure.

This also seems to explain the "why" of just how overfilling cuts speed. I never understood why this would be the case, when it didn't happen to cars with the same drastic effects, I just knew I couldn't argue with the noticeable loss of speed if the oil was high for me.

• drewkaree

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[SPEK]

Thanks for this. It sounds similar to what I did minus one minute. Here's my best guess and hoping what it is. I had a service center do the last oil change in August. Although a Yamaha service center their specialty is outboards. I'm hoping they didn't know/follow the procedure as outlined and ended up over filling as the post and other videos I've watch have said is possible and maybe I just didn't notice or check at the right times before starting or shutting down for the day. Historically I've had service centers change my oil bc I just don't have level enough ground near me but If this is what's happening I plan to find a way to A) do them myself or B) have the service manual and make sure the service shop knows the procedures.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The other thing I’ve seen people make a mistake with is not screwing the dipstick in fully when checking the oil, that will also result in too high oil level. Your situation was extreme, there was one other guy on here with a FSH with the TR-1s in it and he pulled a lot of oil out of each engine.. he never closed the loop on his thread so don’t know what his final outcome was. Be sure and check your air filters and make sure they are not wet with oil.

What I have found is that if you get all the oil out using both oil removal tubes, when you put in the correct amount of oil in the engines, the oil level will be about half way on the dipsticks. Other people will say to run the oil levels low to get max rpms, in the first place I think that is a bad idea, and I also tested that one day on the water just before an oil change, I started pulling oil out incrementally down to 1/4 full on the dipsticks and there was zero change in rpms.

I’d try and find a place where you can do the oil changes yourself. The savings by you doing it will pay for the cost of the extractor. I bought a mighty vac 8L extractor which will allow you to pull the oil out of both engines when you do a change. The hardest part I suppose is having access to the water hose to get the engines warmed up and to test run them afterwards to check oil levels.

 

[SPEK]

I appreciate your input. There is a spot in front of my house on the street that is "mostly" level. Being a bit OCD I'm worried it's not level enough lol I wish I could do this in my driveway but way to much slope. I could probably use some of the levelers from my camper to get is as close to perfect level and I think I can get a long enough hose out to the boat. I think I'll try to gather the supplies and do this myself as you mentioned I know it can save a lot of $ in the long run plus better QC on my end vs a service center just trying to get it in and out as fast as possible and potentially overlooking the proper procedures.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

It’s sad to say the least when a “service center” doesn’t understand the basic principles of a dry sump engine, that’s what we pay people for to work on our vehicles and they F them up.

I kind of doubt you’ve got gasoline contamination in your oil, it’s a new boat and you haven’t had any other issues I assume. You can probably just start pulling the oil out of your engines a bit at a time to correct the oil level. I’ve done that on the water with an empty oil bottles and an irrigation syringe and a short piece of tubing.

As far as boat leveling goes, it doesn’t have to be gnats ass level, if you get the bubble within the lines that’s more than close enough. I put the spirit level on the valve cover to check the level.

You can pick up a 100’ water hose at Sam’s for not too much money.

If you got oil in the bilge from the overflow you can clean it out this way.
-Pull the fuse from the auto side of your bilge pump.
-Get a 5 gallon bucket, put some Dawn dish soap in the bottom and fill it with hot water, try to keep from aerating it too much. The hot water should not be so hot you can’t put your hand in it.
-Put the hull drain plug in
-Pour that hot water / soap solution into the engine bay. You want the level to be high enough in the engine bay to cover the bilge pump, it takes about 10 gallons for my boat.
-Get in there with a soft brush and scrub everything down that you can reach underneath the engines
-Pull the hull drain plug
-Rinse with buckets of hot water.
-Repeat soapy water and rinse if necessary. I usually do this twice.
-Replace the fuse for auto side of the bilge pump.
-Leave engine hatch and other compartments open to allow the inside of the boat to dry thoroughly.
-Spray the engines, wires and connectors with silicone spray.

My marine mechanic friend suggested that method to me after I made an oily mess one time when I changed my oil. He also suggested towing the boat around for 15-20 minutes to let that hot soapy water agitate all over in the bilge. I’ve used this method without the towing around part, washed the engines down with the hot soapy water using the brush and then rinsed it thoroughly. This leaves your engine bay and your boat smelling good with no oily smells and everything looks new.

 

[SPEK]

Thanks so much this has been so helpful!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks so much this has been so helpful!

You’re welcome!! Hope it all works out quickly and well for you and you can get on the water.
Please let us all know how it works out!

 

[qwikkotatx]

Is the TR-1 a different oiling system than the 1.9L I have? I didn't think these were considered a dry sump. Usually that is a separate oil tank and minimal oil in the crankcase.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Is the TR-1 a different oiling system than the 1.9L I have? I didn't think these were considered a dry sump. Usually that is a separate oil tank and minimal oil in the crankcase.

Try reading the thread I linked in post #2, that should clear it up for you.