One engine not starting

[johnso30]

I went to change the oil and spark plugs this weekend... tried to start the starboard engine to warm the oil up, but it wouldn’t fire. Have tried several times since with no success. It turns over fine, but doesn’t start. Each time I try, “Check Engine” pops up in the tach after 3 seconds or so. I checked the code, and it flashes 13 and then “crank level signal error” before the tach shuts off. I looked in the service manual and it says that code 13 is the pickup coil. (I’ll be honest... I have no idea what that does...)

I’ll also note that I’ve been having some intermittent issues since last fall with this engine starting if the battery has been off a charger for more than a week or two, but it’s always been just this engine - port engine always starts right up - so I’ve been thinking that there’s a loose/weak electrical connection somewhere. However, this is the first time that I haven’t been able to get it started after putting a booster on the batteries, and also the first time the Check Engine warning has popped up.

So I’m not all that mechanically inclined... so thinking I probably just need to take it to a dealer. Before I do that, thought that I would ask here if there’s something or things that are simple and straight forward that I should try to look at or do myself?

 

[Beachbummer]

I think that's the sensor used by the engine to figure out in what position of the revolution the engine is on. I think it has been solved by others by cleaning any electrical connectors that might have gotten wet.

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, that is the code for the pickup coil signal. See https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-lights-flashing-at-you-wonder-what-that-is-error-codes.83/ (from the FAQ).

Don't recall seeing anyone fix that one previously (and did a quick search here on it). Might go to one of the parts websites and do a search for the pickup coil and see if it is indeed the engine position sensor as suspected. Very well may be. I will offer that 9 of 10 times, sensor issues are either the connection or the sensor itself (and not something more fundamental, like an engine problem).

Let us know what you find!

 

[johnso30]

Thanks guys. I dug into the service manual. Looks like the pickup coil is embedded into the stator - you can’t replace just the pickup coil. I tested the resistance through the pickup coupler (after cleaning it) and it was within the listed range. The service manual also describes how to check the peak voltage, but you need a special test harness to do that, which I can’t find anywhere online.

To my surprise, the engine started up after I connected the pickup coil coupler back after testing the resistance. However, I turned it off and tried again and it wouldn’t start (with the error code returned). I was able to repeat this... unplugging the pickup coil coupler and turning the battery off for a minute or so seems to temporarily clear the error and allow it to start, but it then just triggers the error for the next time that I try to start it.

I don’t think there’s anything more I can do with it, so I’m going to call the dealer tomorrow to get it scheduled with them.

 

[Beachbummer]

Did you try to ensure the connectivity was clean and dry? Check the wiring and continuity before you give up. Best of luck!

 

[buckbuck]

and add a little dielectric grease to the pins.

 

[tdonoughue]

I agree with @buckbuck and @Beachbummer . If unplugging and replugging is working, I would be looking closely at that connection. Not only is it clean and dry, but make sure the pins are aligned and all there (I have had one get pushed over on a connector on my boat before--and one pin pushed backward into the connector). The dielectric grease will enhance the conductivity and keep corrosion away.

Also check any other connector you may have accidentally pulled along the way (like the next one down the wire). Sometimes unplugging this one is not what is doing it--it is how you jiggled the one on the other end.

If that still doesn't do it, then I think tis time for the shop...

 

[johnso30]

Thanks. I’ll take a closer look at the connector, but everything looked normal when I was playing with it the other day. And I’ll add a bit of dielectric grease as well.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how do I test the connector - to test the continuity across it? I think the next wire down the line is into the ecm, but not sure exactly.

 

[tdonoughue]

Hard to test it exactly. Only real way is to do continuity on the both sides of the connector (which is usually very difficult at best). Visual inspection, soft cleaning with a q tip and alcohol (which will clean and remove water), and the dielectric grease is about all that is practical.

If the next stop is the ECU, checking that connector too might be good if it is within distance it could get jiggled by your messing with the first connector. If not, I wouldn't disconnect that. You might start adding more problems as you try to trace this one...

 

[Beachbummer]

Maybe too simple an explanation, I'm assuming a multimeter is a foreign object, sorry if it seems basic, No judgement of your prior knowledge implied or suggested)

Put you multimeter selector knob in Ohms (Looks like an open O wih two lines at the bottom. (The scale is not as relevant, pick a lager number if you wish to make the test less sensitive) When the leads of the tester are separated it will read 1..... or Infinite..that means NO connection between the wires. If you touch the leads it will show a very low number since you are measuring the resistance and there is very little, since the wiring is making the connection. It should also show a small number when you are testing your wiring to indicate the wiring is good.

Infinite or a 1... (Whatever your tester shows when the leads are separated) is indication that the wiring is NOT transmitting current. Low Number, the connection is being made...


If the ends are too far apart to reach with the tester, I find a length of wire that is known to be good (something you may have on hand from a prior project works great, just test it before you use it with the multimeter, by touching the ends to the tester and watching for the low number) and use it to complete the circuit so you can more easily test it. So if you have long wire that you want to test that you cannot move the ends to the tester, test some other available wire to you, and once it's known to be good "extend" the wire you are testing with the good wire so it can reach the tester. (Sec Pic 1)

If the harness you are testing has 2 wires, you can also bridge the harness to itself on one side and check continuity on the other side. (Pic 2) If it fails it will not tell you which side is broke, but at least you know this is the problem area.

These tests must be preformed with NO POWER to the cables being tested.

Best of Luck!

 

[johnso30]

Thanks - I generally need very basic instructions I thought this was what you were referring to, but appreciate the explanation.

In my case, I tested the connector going to the pickup coil, but not sure how to test across the connectors. I’ll look at the service manual to see if I can figure out what connection from it goes to the pickup coil, but As tdonoughue said, I don’t want to add to my problems, so I’ll probably leave it alone unless its pretty clear on what the connection is.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

If possible take the multi pin connector apart and check the conductors... might be a broken wire.

The fact the Ohm test you ran checked good is good news, and that engine started after you messing with the connector sounds like a broken wire, loose pin in the connector.