Shorelnd’r wheel bearing & disc brake caliper maintenance

[qwikkotatx]

Where can an owners manual for these trailers be found? It doesn't sound like a service manual is available.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Where can an owners manual for these trailers be found? It doesn't sound like a service manual is available.

Correct!

That’s why I put this thread together.

Was there something missing in this thread that you need answers for?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is also a great thread that @Zackdadams did.

Thread 'FSH 252/255 Trailer Brake Project'

Feb 16, 2025

Tutorial for replacing brake calipers, surge actuator, rotors, and more.

Now a disclaimer: I am not a mechanic.
There are most definitely steps that could be improved in this tutorial!

Tools Needed:

• Large Floor Jack
• Impact Wrench w/ Sockets
• SAE Socket Set
• Channel Locks
• C-Clamp
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Needle Nose Vice Grips
• Stubby Allen Impact Sockets
• Grease Gun

Part 1: The Calipers, Rotors, & Leaf Springs



I live on the Gulf Coast...

• Zackdadams
• Replies: 9
• Forum: Tow Rigs, Trailers and other things with Wheels

• 

 

[qwikkotatx]

Correct!

That’s why I put this thread together.

Was there something missing in this thread that you need answers for?

Just a question or two but I thought I saw reference to an owners manual.

For the rotor, is this an integrated part with the hub or is the rotor separate?

I had a question about how to remove the old dried up red loctite but saw you used scotch brite pads. Wire brush too aggressive?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Just a question or two but I thought I saw reference to an owners manual.

For the rotor, is this an integrated part with the hub or is the rotor separate?

I had a question about how to remove the old dried up red loctite but saw you used scotch brite pads. Wire brush too aggressive?

You can also use a strip of Emery paper to remove the red Loctite.

Yes, the rotor is an in interval part of the hub, you might want to check them to see if there’s any high spots or if they’re seriously out of round I had one that was pretty bad that I took down to O’Reilly and had it turned

If you can’t get the wear sleeves off by hand, you may have to heat them up a couple hundred degrees to get the red Loctite to let go. A hairdryer might do it, but you may need a heat gun or a butane torch used sparingly.

 

[qwikkotatx]

You can also use a strip of Emery paper to remove the red Loctite.

Yes, the rotor is an in interval part of the hub, you might want to check them to see if there’s any high spots or if they’re seriously out of round I had one that was pretty bad that I took down to O’Reilly and had it turned

If you can’t get the wear sleeves off by hand, you may have to heat them up a couple hundred degrees to get the red Loctite to let go. A hairdryer might do it, but you may need a heat gun or a butane torch used sparingly.

Probably a lot of elbow grease to get that loctite off but scraping would damage the surface.

Ok, thank you. That makes sense how expensive they are then.

I have a heat gun.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Probably a lot of elbow grease to get that loctite off but scraping would damage the surface.

Ok, thank you. That makes sense how expensive they are then.

I have a heat gun.

A red scotch brite pad will make short work of it.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Just got back from a 2500 mile trip to Lake Mohave. Before I left I pulled the slider pins on the calipers and the pins were still covered in that CRC disc brake lube I put on winter of 2024-2025. Granted it was dark in color but still fully lubed. I cleaned up the pins and the rubber things they ride in re lubricated them.

I checked hub temps on trip and they were cool as a cucumber. On the first leg of the trip home after 150 miles at 65 mph I checked the hubs after an easy slow down so not to apply the trailer brakes too heavily the front two axes were 66*, the drivers side rear / brake hub was also 66*, and the passenger side rear / brake hub was 69*

On the first day of fishing after my friends got there and we went to Willow Beach, there is a really really long down hill from the interstate to the marina, like miles of it, I checked the hubs upon stopping and both brake hubs were 160*, while the front hubs were 70*, so not too bad. But this illustrates one thing I do not like about surge brakes, I was letting the engine brake keep the speed where I wanted it but this causes the surge brakes to be applied. Whereas electric over hydraulic would not apply the trailer brakes unless I pushed on the brake pedal. The hub temps were not too bad, but you could smell that they were hot. Not enough of an issue to want t spend the better part of a grand to fix a problem that really doesn’t exist.