Starting to see corrosion.

[Mandiime]

Last year I kept my boat in a slip. After pulling it I started to see corrosion forming. It's not a lot at all but I don't want to leave it and have something develop. Do I need to change my anodes? Is slight corrosion normal? Do I need to pull it a few times during the summer and clean it?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Last year I kept my boat in a slip. After pulling it I started to see corrosion forming. It's not a lot at all but I don't want to leave it and have something develop. Do I need to change my anodes? Is slight corrosion normal? Do I need to pull it a few times during the summer and clean it?

Pictures would be a big help.

Did you have an onboard battery charger that was left plugged in?

 

[Farny]

Last year I kept my boat in a slip. After pulling it I started to see corrosion forming. It's not a lot at all but I don't want to leave it and have something develop. Do I need to change my anodes? Is slight corrosion normal? Do I need to pull it a few times during the summer and clean it?

Fresh or salt water?

 

[Mandiime]

Fresh or salt water?

Fresh water.

 

[Mandiime]

Fresh or salt water?

Im going out to take pics now. I do not have an onboard charger while its on the water. Battery tender at home though.

 

[Cambo]

Thats some corrosive fresh water.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

That looks more like hard water deposits than corrosion, if I’m correct, looking at the attached picture it’s on the gel coat as well. Your anodes look fine as well, mine look like that and I’m in fresh water too, but I don’t leave my boat in the water.

See here, it looks like something brushed across this spot and disturbed it.


Try spraying an area with a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water, let it sit for a couple of minutes then scrub it a little with a nylon brush, not a metal brush!, spray some more vinegar and water on it and scrub it again and let it sit for another couple of minutes then rinse it off. Don’t leave the vinegar / water mix on there, be sure and rinse it off.

 

[TimW451]

I agree with @FSH 210 Sport . Verify the ride plate and steering fins have deposits and not pitting, by cleaning.

For a frame of reference, here is a shot of my boat. Brackish water, kept on a lift, anodes installed in 2019.

 

[Steve73]

I think I read somewhere that there are two different types of anodes. One is better for Salt water and one is better for Fresh Water... I'm not an anodes expert... but might be worth a google and see if that makes any difference.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I think I read somewhere that there are two different types of anodes. One is better for Salt water and one is better for Fresh Water... I'm not an anodes expert... but might be worth a google and see if that makes any difference.

It was mentioned here on this site as well!

 

[Mandiime]

Thank you everyone! I appreciate all the help!

 

[Mandiime]

I agree with @FSH 210 Sport . Verify the ride plate and steering fins have deposits and not pitting, by cleaning.

For a frame of reference, here is a shot of my boat. Brackish water, kept on a lift, anodes installed in 2019.
View attachment 198355
View attachment 198356

I'll give it a good cleaning when I get home and post pics

 

[Mandiime]

That looks more like hard water deposits than corrosion, if I’m correct, looking at the attached picture it’s on the gel coat as well. Your anodes look fine as well, mine look like that and I’m in fresh water too, but I don’t leave my boat in the water.

See here, it looks like something brushed across this spot and disturbed it.
View attachment 198352

Try spraying an area with a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water, let it sit for a couple of minutes then scrub it a little with a nylon brush, not a metal brush!, spray some more vinegar and water on it and scrub it again and let it sit for another couple of minutes then rinse it off. Don’t leave the vinegar / water mix on there, be sure and rinse it off.

Roger that. I'll use that mix.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Roger that. I'll use that mix.

I use the same mix to remove water spots from the hull and the inside…it works great and its super cheap.

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

I think I read somewhere that there are two different types of anodes. One is better for Salt water and one is better for Fresh Water... I'm not an anodes expert... but might be worth a google and see if that makes any difference.

From How to Choose a Sacrificial Anode | Fisheries Supply,

THE METALS

• Zinc is the traditional anode material because in the old days it was relatively easy to obtain. While zinc works adequately in saltwater, it will not protect your boat in fresh or brackish water. Additionally, not only is zinc itself toxic in the environment, zinc anodes must also contain extremely toxic cadmium metal as an activator. Zinc anodes are available for both recreational and commercial applications.
• Aluminum anodes are rapidly replacing zinc for use on ALL hull materials. With the recent advent of alloys developed by the US Navy, anode aluminum is very different from the aluminum alloys used for boat hulls, outboards, and stern drives. These "mil spec" aluminum anodes are more electrically active and protect better than zinc, plus they last longer! Aluminum has been used in the offshore industry for years to protect installations where long-term corrosion protection is essential. Aluminum anodes also use a much less toxic activator – which makes them better for the environment. To top it off, aluminum anodes are really the only choice that will work in both brackish AND salt water. So if you keep your boat in a place that is exposed to both (such as at the mouth of a river that empties into the ocean) you should definitely be using aluminum. Aluminum has become the anode of choice for the US Navy, as well as for large commercial fleets. This is due to the money they save (aluminum anodes last longer so ships go longer between replacements) and because aluminum is so much lighter that they can help provide better fuel economy in larger fleets. Aluminum anodes are available for both recreational and commercial applications.
• Magnesium anodes are the most active, and are the only anodes that work well in the low conductivity of fresh water. Magnesium is also relatively non- toxic to aquatic life. Being so active, magnesium doesn't last long in salt or brackish water and so is not recommended for these waters. Magnesium anodes are only available for recreational applications.

Jim

 

[Cambo]

For more reference this picture of my 2005 ar230 sold in 2018 about 300hrs of 90% salt water use using the trailer. I did a deep clean twice they would get some white sediment build up but a scotch brite pad would take it off then I sprayed them with WD40 a few times during the season . For some reason this year did not have any anodes the two prongs are there but not tapped with threads.

 

[rockinthesuburbs]

That looks more like hard water deposits than corrosion, if I’m correct, looking at the attached picture it’s on the gel coat as well. Your anodes look fine as well, mine look like that and I’m in fresh water too, but I don’t leave my boat in the water.

See here, it looks like something brushed across this spot and disturbed it.
View attachment 198352

Try spraying an area with a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water, let it sit for a couple of minutes then scrub it a little with a nylon brush, not a metal brush!, spray some more vinegar and water on it and scrub it again and let it sit for another couple of minutes then rinse it off. Don’t leave the vinegar / water mix on there, be sure and rinse it off.

Hopefully not too off-topic, but I boat in extremely hard water as well. While I do the vinegar/water on the exterior and some of the interior surfaces that are harder to get the deposits off, is there anything recommended to prevent any buildup from within the pump and motor? Is that even a concern? I know there are salt-water rinses and things like that to keep the corrosion at bay from boating in salt water, but I haven't really seen anything for fresh, hard water. Just a question that's been in the back of my mind from a first-time boat owner.

 

[johhnyboat]

you want those anodes to corrode

From How to Choose a Sacrificial Anode | Fisheries Supply,

THE METALS

• Zinc is the traditional anode material because in the old days it was relatively easy to obtain. While zinc works adequately in saltwater, it will not protect your boat in fresh or brackish water. Additionally, not only is zinc itself toxic in the environment, zinc anodes must also contain extremely toxic cadmium metal as an activator. Zinc anodes are available for both recreational and commercial applications.
• Aluminum anodes are rapidly replacing zinc for use on ALL hull materials. With the recent advent of alloys developed by the US Navy, anode aluminum is very different from the aluminum alloys used for boat hulls, outboards, and stern drives. These "mil spec" aluminum anodes are more electrically active and protect better than zinc, plus they last longer! Aluminum has been used in the offshore industry for years to protect installations where long-term corrosion protection is essential. Aluminum anodes also use a much less toxic activator – which makes them better for the environment. To top it off, aluminum anodes are really the only choice that will work in both brackish AND salt water. So if you keep your boat in a place that is exposed to both (such as at the mouth of a river that empties into the ocean) you should definitely be using aluminum. Aluminum has become the anode of choice for the US Navy, as well as for large commercial fleets. This is due to the money they save (aluminum anodes last longer so ships go longer between replacements) and because aluminum is so much lighter that they can help provide better fuel economy in larger fleets. Aluminum anodes are available for both recreational and commercial applications.
• Magnesium anodes are the most active, and are the only anodes that work well in the low conductivity of fresh water. Magnesium is also relatively non- toxic to aquatic life. Being so active, magnesium doesn't last long in salt or brackish water and so is not recommended for these waters. Magnesium anodes are only available for recreational applications.

Jim

do the anodes come in different metals? I think they only come in Aluminum. It's pretty well known that Zinc is the best for salt water environment as they will "sacrifice" themselves before any other metal.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Hopefully not too off-topic, but I boat in extremely hard water as well. While I do the vinegar/water on the exterior and some of the interior surfaces that are harder to get the deposits off, is there anything recommended to prevent any buildup from within the pump and motor? Is that even a concern? I know there are salt-water rinses and things like that to keep the corrosion at bay from boating in salt water, but I haven't really seen anything for fresh, hard water. Just a question that's been in the back of my mind from a first-time boat owner.

Mine too…. I’ve thought about CLR as a possible flush agent. I’ve also thought about just using vinegar in the salt away dispenser.

 

[johhnyboat]

Mine too…. I’ve thought about CLR as a possible flush agent. I’ve also thought about just using vinegar in the salt away dispenser.

I did this in the fall with CLR, but I'm not sure how I can check to see if it actually does anything.